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Bleeding Clutch


esty
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following my Bleeding Brakes Thread from a week or so ago, we changed the rear brake hose for new stainless, installed a new master cylinder and success, we were able to bleed the brakes...

 

Murphy's Law bitch slapped steve ...problem now is clutch... a new clutch master, slave cylinder and stainless lines were installed in our 1st round of working on brakes a few weeks ago and the clutch bled, pretty much on it's on, with a little pumping ...just opening the bleeder we were getting fluid from the slave cylinder ...now he cannot bleed the clutch, can get no fluid through the slave cylinder, using the Motive Bleeder and a reverse bleeder

 

he has no idea except maybe some trash found it's way into the clutch master or slave while bleeding the brakes

 

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when in doubt-blow it out. 

 

Ok, whilst I'm a bit of a hack mechanic, I have blown air through (back up into the master or reservoir) the system to verify blockage or to confirm integrity.  Just don't ram 100 PSI up in there cause that ain't too cool.  

 

Perhaps maybe?  

 

but what do I know

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34 minutes ago, esty said:

using the Motive Bleeder and a reverse bleeder

Never have much luck with any of that stuff.. Have far better success using the "Lana" method.

I park my wife in the drivers seat while the car is up in the air and tell her to "pump like crazy" honey!

Edited by tech71
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The orifice in the bleeder screw is very small, and it doesn't take much to clog it, so try removing the slave cylinder bleeder screw altogether and GENTLY press on the clutch pedal (hold a catch can over the hole in case there's a gusher).  Hopefully that'll allow any trash in the system to pop out.  

 

The slave cylinder is the lowest component in the entire hydraulic system, so any trash from the clutch M/C or even the reservoir will find its way to the slave cyl.

 

mike

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we have the same problem with clutch master that we had with brake master, no fluid through the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder

 

steve disconnected the line from master to slave cylinder and no fluid when pumping...i just got home to help him get that frikin top bolt out again so he can replace that master cylinder...at least it's under warranty...we just have to wait...again

 

 

is bad luck really better than none at all?

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he made several adjustments to the push rod, both in and out and it made no difference...like the mystery with the brake master, it was bleeding before he installed the new brake master and bled the brakes

 

what should the distance of A be in your picture...and how do you know, you can't see the push rod inside the boot and master cylinder

 

he has always adjusted it so the clutch pedal is even with the brake pedal

a.png

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If you have to swap out the clutch M/C again, some tricks from the column I wrote about the job many years ago:

  • put the attaching bolts on the outside and the nut inside the pedal box; with one person holding the bolt in place it's much easier to turn the nut from inside the car with a socket wrench
  • before installing the M/C, grind a bit of metal (there's plenty) away from the area directly below the top bolt hole, so you can get a socket on the nut to run it up (presuming you don't do the previous suggestion). Or...
  • use manifold nuts (12mm hex, same thread) vs the original 13mm so you can get a socket on it from underneath the car  (presuming you don't do the first suggestion)

mike

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9 minutes ago, Hans said:

Just make sure there is no preload on the pushrod. Did he put #5 in before the grommet?

i don't understand what you are saying about #5 and the grommet....he put the fluid pipe from reservoir in the master cylinder and lowered in in place...he does not preload the pedal before attaching push rod

 

 

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