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Removing oil pan, engine in car


Hans
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I've done it but you'll need to drop the pan then unhook the pump pick up then you can remove the whole thing reassembly is the reverse, not worth it IMO, just drop the pan and with the mounts loosened raise the engine just a few inches and slide the the pan out or in to reinstall.

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2 hours ago, theNomad said:

dropping the front subframe isn't all that bad.

Yeah you could get 2 longer bolts to replace the 2 middle bolts on each side of the subframe and just let it hang on those, You only need 3 or 4" to clear, no need to hang calipers or disconnect the steering box probably.

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Also for what reason? You can drop it *far enough* to change a gasket, slip in a windage tray, or even to swap out an oil pump (yup, done it!) without actually removing the oil pan.  But if you really need to actually get it out of there to replace, weld in a baffle, access main bearings, etc., then yeah refer to the tricks above.

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Just get one of these.  Cheap.  Simple.  Why make a job harder than it needs to be.  Use the right tool.  Engine support bar.  under $80...without a coupon.

 

HF does not seem to allow direct links to products.  if link below goes to "sale" page, put "engine support bar" in the HF search box.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html?_br_psugg_q=engine+support+bar

 

Edited by M2M3
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49 minutes ago, TobyB said:

Marshall,

you realize you just referred to an HF thingy as the 'right tool?'

 

;)

 

t

 

yeah...odd right?  LOL!!!

HF actually has a few things that are useful for more than one use!  engine support bars, engine hoists, welding tables, etc.  generally the big heavy stuff with lots of metal....

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54 minutes ago, TobyB said:

you realize you just referred to an HF thingy as the 'right tool?'

Dunno if y'all have noticed, but HF is moving upscale--a very clever move on their part to take the place of now defunct Sears tool departments.  Their new stores are larger and nicer inside, and their tools now come in several different grades.  But even the cheap ones mostly have lifetime warranties.  I had one of their Pittsburgh tape measures break and they cheerfully gave me a new one.  

 

Their higher grade stuff looks pretty good--a big improvement over what they sold just a few years ago.  More stores, too and lots of sales.

 

mike

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I've had great success with an engine lift device.  It would be even easier with a carbureted engine as the alternator doesn't hit the bottom of the battery tray like in the tii.  Arghh!

 

The last time I removed my oilpan, I removed the 4 bolts holding the radiator.  You don't even need to drain the rad.  I removed the distributor cap and removed the engine mount bolts.  That's it!

 

Lifting the front of the engine only 3" using the lift and chain connected to the front lift point was easy.  Once the engine is elevated this small amount the pan can be slid out (and back in).

EngineLiftSML.jpg

I used wood blocks at the engine mount locations to stabilize the lift, and add safety to the job.EngineLiftSML3.jpg

 

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