Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Proper prep before final Welding


floatinghead

Recommended Posts

Hi there,  this is for my e21 floor repair, but will apply to my 2002 in the future.  This is also my first time doing any metal repair, so hoping to do the right thing the first time.  Might be a simple question, but i figured i'd ask now, cause once its welded in, well....

 

I am getting ready to weld in a new floor pan ( W&N) and had some questions on how to properly prep the panels before  plug welding it in.  The replacement panel has an e-coat or primer applied and I'm trying to figure out what to do to the mating surfaces in the area of the plug welds.  The sides i'm welding to ( frame rail and along firewall) are bare metal.  I used por-15 down the center of the center of the frame rail as I figured it wouldn't be getting too hot.  

 

 

QUESTION: Should I clean the e-coat off the new pan in the strips to be welded and spray Weld Thru Primer so its the same on both mating faces? Does it matter?  I've read that Weld thru primer doesn't hold well to paint (isn't really a primer but a coating) so didn't think it made sense to spray it over the e-coat.  Something better to use?   How far around each weld should the paint me cleaned off?

 

The plan after welding was to put down eastwood rust encapsulator, seam seal, then paint.  

 

Any thoughts or best practices on proper prep for the plug weld zones?

 

thanks,

 

Baron

Screen Shot 2021-08-22 at 7.56.23 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-08-22 at 8.08.28 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-08-22 at 8.08.39 AM.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, floatinghead said:

The plan after welding was to put down eastwood rust encapsulator, seam seal, then paint.  

 

I would weld bare clean metal, clean it back an inch or so.If you follow thru with the above plan no need for weld thru primer.

I'm assuming that "plug weld" means "spot weld"? 

Fit it all together and fix it all in placedrill some holes from pan to frame rail every 6 in. or so. Do you have clecos? Do the edges too,

If not use screws and nuts to draw the pan and rail together, monkey with it until you have full contact all around(best possible) 

Tack weld it all together before concentrating on any one area, helps control distortion,

 

Be certain your spot welds  actually engage the floor pan.

I've seen repairs where some of the spot welds just fill the holes and dont actually fuse with the floor pan metal. Nice prep, looking good.

Edited by tech71
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do probably need to add some more holes for bringing the panels together for the spot welds.  I did use cleco's and they were super helpful as i was getting everything lined up and cut.  I usually run a few mockup panels as well to get my process a bit more dialed before i weld.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't like the weld- through coatings.  They're designed for a 400a stick weld, not an 80a MIG.

 

What I have come down to in the recent past is clean metal for welding (prep the inside of the frame rail

to the 9's otherwise, but leave the flange clean) then fog the darned thing with a waxy filler.

3m cavity wax, waxoyl, something like that. Lots of it, to really seal the weld.

 

I cut up an E46 the other month, and the pinch welds were electrocoated full of primer-

those baths they run the shells through really do work.  A wicking rust preventative is the closest

you and I can get, unless we buy a swimming pool...

 

t

 

  • Like 1

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...