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S2002 with A/C - It's not for everyone

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So 3 years ago I purchased an ICEAC/Clardy kit and did a full install with a few small mods, the shops that did them locally quoted 10.5 - 15.0 hrs. I did it in 21hrs......

when I swapped to the F20c I sold my ICEAC unit locally and installed it into another friends car (20hrs. the second time with the mods) 


With the F20c all in and carpeted I figured I would start on a electric trunk A/C unit, when I shaped a spare Kooglewerks AC face I saw I had plenty of room for a Clardy to go back in so I called ICEAC and ordered 75% of a full kit but was told it would be a few weeks due to COVID, well that went worse when we found out the production facilities Injection Mold Machine went down so they didn't have the Face and Sides but I figured all the heavy lifting happens before those last 3 parts so I had them ship what they had.


My third AC in a 2002


So as it stands I planned:

Sourced used Honda S2000 Compressor ($20 craigslist locally with Honda hardware which listed at $35.00)

eBay Condenser

ICEAC/Clardy Evaporator Kit with hardware and dryer

AC Book - Rod Siegel 

Get hoses made locally 

Make my own AC harness with relays 

New Drivers Side Motor mount prototyped and Laser cut 

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So my first steps were to install my eBay Condenser and Spal Pusher Fan, easy, the washers were to space the Condenser exactly where I wanted it in relation to the Radiator behind 

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I slaved the Pusher relay to my rear Puller fan relay, really happy about adding this box

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Next was the Bulkhead fitting to the cabin, it should have been installed at 180' so the #10 would be towards the Evaporator 

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Then I Installed the used Honda/Denso S2000 Compressor (Black = Autozone rebuilt unit)

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Now back to the cabin to install the Evaporator and wire it all in with Relays, Switches and a USB charger

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So it all worked with power as the switches suggested now for hoses, the hose shop quoted me $25 per fitting (12 Fittings) $4.00 pr ft Hose (25 ft) $100/hr about 3-5 hours...........AND 3 weeks out for an appointment. I messaged Rob and re-read the book and his posts about his install and ordered a $158 crimper, my costs: $7.00-$12 per fitting, $2.10-$3.50 pr ft hoses 

Crimper (1).jpg


Let the Hosing begin, about 9 hrs including creep for unneeded details like Hose Separators and clamps, all the separators are held in place with Nutserts below 

 08 (2).jpg

The Steel fittings are nicer to work with but the Aluminum fittings Crimp cleaner, the existing holes were from my pervious Tii A/C install, I used the upper hole figuring the slightly longer Drier hose would be easier to fit  

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Clamps on Radiator Supports and a Separator as a holder 


A new Radiator hose is on order to re=route over the #10 hose Suction Fitting 

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Kooglewerks sent me up a fresh face to fit over my 6 speed tunnel 

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Drove over to my local AC recharge shop to get it Vacuumed and Pressurized with this running result:  

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SO, F20c isnt for everyone but with current M10 and 245 rebuild pricing this is an alternative for about the same as a basic M10 rebuild with a 5 speed added 



4 speed


F20c - 240hp efi

6 speed  

Honda A/C compressor 


How the motor fits 










Edited by chargin
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37 minutes ago, LindrelT said:
8 hours ago, chargin said:


Great job and thanks for the write up!  So what size condenser did you get in there?

judging by the photos I think it’s the same one Rob Siegel used in his write up 10”x18” which is the maximum size that fits without cutting the nose 



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Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, AustrianVespaGuy said:


Very clean installation, I really like your hose routings! Though IIRC that 6-speed required a good bit of tunnel work to fit, right?  Engine sure plops in there nicely though, well done!


As different as it looks it actually was very easy, I made 3 cuts and then jus bent up the flap. After the motor and transmission were in place we just sort of filled in the wedge. The shop charged me 2.5hrs 


the added bonus is that the shifter actually ends up in the same Front to Back location and a similar height 




Edited by chargin
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You should be fine with that small case 168mm differential. Although your Honda makes great horsepower the torque numbers are not enough to cause the small case to be completely overwhelmed. Metric Mechanic actually suggested the BMW M3 could run a small case differential behind the S14 in the E30 which is obviously a heavier platform than your 2002 /S2000/Honda. Torque and shock loading is what the diff sees and causes failures. 

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2 hours ago, RussTii said:

lthough your Honda makes great horsepower the torque numbers are not enough to cause the small case to be completely overwhelmed

👆yep, the thing is if you go with the large case differential and “Monster” rear subframe you add 160’ lbs 😮

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