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Clonk located by inept owner - please help with part name


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My car has had a front end "clonk" and putting on the new alloy wheels recently made it worse somehow.. I spent 20 min over and under the car with my son jumping up and down on the door sill and located it, I'm pretty sure... Problem is I'm fairly clueless on suspension part names and I want to make sure I get the right part...

See pic below..

 

What I believe to be the sway bar attaches to the moving suspension arm thingie (laugh, no idea what they are, wishbones?) with those long bolts...

One side of the car has 4 bushings on the bolt. This clonky side has only 3, none at bottom... As you can see there is a gap between 1 and 2 on that side from the whole bolt being loose (not the other side), and bushing #4 is flat out missing... Not sure if it fell out or what... washer is taping the inside of the arm. 99% sure that's it. 

 

Now that you're done laughing at my inept technical terms, gimme a tiny bit of credit for identifying the issue and please confirm what those bushings are called ? I found something called sway bar end link bushing but not sure that's it...look different on the pictures. If you have a part # all the better... Also any chance I can purchase an off the shelf rubber donut at a local auto parts store and not wait days for this ?  Finally, do I replace this with the car on the ground (I'd think so) or on jacks/wheel off ?  thx ! 

bimmer_clonk.jpg

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You are correct in your terminology and diagnosis. It is entirely possible to use a bushing from another car, a lot of sway bar end links are very similar. 
 

I like to install or at least do the final positioning and tightening with the vehicle at ride height. 

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Your diagnosis is good, but your picture show only 2 rubber rings (rubber bushings). are there also 2 rubber rings going through control arm too? Is the long hex bolt double hex nut at the end of threads? how many plates do you have? there should be 4 on each side? If quantity of rubbers and plates are present just confirm assembly to diagram below and while front tires on the ground tighten upper nut to 16 ft-lb and tighten 2nd nut against 1st one. 

 

Screen Shot 2021-08-06 at 10.07.28 PM.png

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2215-USA-04-1976-114-BMW-2002&diagId=31_0441

 

Of course sway bar end-links proposed by other post is preferred vs. stock rubber ones.

 

Sway Bar End Links

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Posted (edited)

Excellent - thanks to all. I ordered some and will wait till Monday delivery I guess. Buckeye, I do have 4 on the passenger side and 3 only on driver side - I’m missing #4 on the picture -  took a good 20 minutes isolating the source and eventually seeing one side did not match the other. My guess is the bottom one disintegrated and fell off because I never touched that area. The entire unit linked above looks nice too but I’m all for stock rubber - I’ve have really bad experience with polyurethane bushings on practically every car I’ve tried them on (too stiff more vibrations etc). If you guys tell me they’re ok in this application I may order some and redo both sides.. simple bolt on job right?  

Edited by deschodt
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13 minutes ago, deschodt said:

simple bolt on job right?  

Possibly, if the nuts come off easy, are not rounded off and the long bolts are not all bent to crap from it all being loose and getting  beat up for who knows how long.

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John76,

 

The bolts on my '74tii have had the threads pointing down since Day 1.  And the ends of the bolts do have some scuffing, making disassembly a tad more "energetic."

 

It is now, nearly 47 years later, one of those major facepalm moments because I have never ever thought of the incredible wisdom of installing those bolts with the threads on top as you note above.

 

I now have a weekend project !!!!!

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

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1 hour ago, OriginalOwner said:

It is now, nearly 47 years later, one of those major facepalm moments because I have never ever thought of the incredible wisdom of installing those bolts with the threads on top as you note above.

Install bolt with head down and loose grip while installing nut.  Expect a hand full of pieces to reassemble.  Less time consuming on an assembly line.

I don't do rock crawling with my car and the threads are in good shape.  Original bolts, ask me how I know.

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Coupla points on the subject:  I'd install urethane bushings here (and only here for a street car)   because you won't notice any harshness with 'em on sway bar end lengths.  The sway bar only comes into play during cornering, and the advantage of urethane bushings here is they don't compress like rubber, so there's no delay in sway bar action when the end links are loaded during cornering.  That's a Good Thing.

 

While it seems counter-intuitive, install the cupped washers with the cup lips facing away from the bushings.  You need a washer under both the bolt head and nut.   Dunno why, but that's what the instructions say.  Based on the number I've seen installed wrong, lotsa folks don't read instructions.

 

mike

 

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