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Final touch on 1967 2000tilux


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I’m still having backfiring issues. I got my timing bang on using the pully markings and then verifying through the hole in gearbox. Vacuum leak perhaps? Float level? 
 

On the more positive note. I just got my Alpina rims in finally and had them installed. Tires are running against strut therefore I can either press in longer bolts allowing me to keep the 195 / 60 R14 in the front with the use of spacers. 
or put 175/60 R14 and not have to change the bolts and won’t need spacers. I don’t like spacers. I don’t think they are safe and at high speeds tend to cause vibration. Therefore, I’m putting 175/60 in the front and keeping the rears 195/60. This configuration works without having to use spacers ect. I’m happy with the wheels as they suit the car and are original and period correct I believe. Maybe I’m wrong but I choose these rims under that assumption. I also put a wood wheel in place of the original school bus wheel which is beautiful but I’ve twice ripped the chrome center ring off in my hands by accidentally grabbing it. The chrome center ring being made of pot metal is impossible to repair. Can’t weld pot metal. So now I have 3 wheels. Black wood one and the one you see in the picture. I thought the black wood would look the best but in the end I prefer the natural wood. Go figure the black wood wheel cost twice as much. The wheel I paid the least amount of money for looks the best.  
I’m considering a 1968 2000 automatic that’s for sale here locally. The fellow wants 10k cdn.  It runs and looks to be in good shape. Not much rust and I’m looking to convert my next car to an EV. These could look good in a showroom as examples of what is involved when restoring a classic car vs converting to EV. The beauty of converting to EV is that it’s reversible and other than the method of how it’s driven the car will maintain everything else original. To look at them side by side you would never know which one was electric. 
This 67 2000tilux is the last car I will ever rebuild using a combustion engine.

i have no idea what I could even get for it if I were to put it up for sale. I have both left and right fenders. New in box And new door seals as well. If it were electrical I’m positive it would open up the door to a much larger and younger audience that appreciates classic vehicles but don’t want to become mechanics just to own one. 
 

 

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I was experiencing backfire out of the carbs initially. I adjusted the float levels and that seemed to remedy the problem. Now I’m getting a lot of backfiring in the exhaust. When I put my hand to feel the exhaust coming out the tail pipe it feels like it’s under a lot of pressure. The car does ride pretty low and I have scrapped the bottom of the center muffler pretty hard numerous times. I don’t see anything visibly wrong but could an air leak in the exhaust cause back fire? I’m at a loss as to where the problem is. Also, the car will not idle smoothly at anything below 1100 rpm. I’m running sidedraft PHH40 carbs. I had them running great once and it was a real pleasure to drive.  Now when I get over 90 or 100km/ hour I feel like there is some pressure build up almost as though the exhaust can’t get out fast enough and it starts to feel a little jerky at the high speeds.

 Any input would be appreciated as it’s been very frustrating trying to figure out this on going problem.

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I’ve adjusted the timing using a timing light. Followed all the instructions on setting up the Phh40 carbs on ore than one occasion. Replaced jets replaced pump diaphragm on carbs. Blew the fuel lines out. Changes all the rubber fuel lines and that helped the way it ran as I was getting a lot of air pulling into the fuel line. 

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Something is certainly not right; especially if you say it ran great before. 

 

As a side draft guy, I still tell everyone that tune ups begin with valve adjustment, then sort out the ignition system, then move to carbs. 

 

You say the timing is bang-on with the marks.  I hate to pick on a detail, but which mark are you using, and at what rpm are you setting the timing?  The Z ball and the OT line on the flywheel are not to be interchanged.  

 

Which spark plugs are you using? What gap did you set them to?

 

If you want to quickly check if there is a vacuum leak, simply spray carb cleaner on the carb bases, or any vacuum line while the engine is running.  The engine speed will change if the vacuum leak sucks in the carb cleaner. This is a simple test, but not always conclusive if the vacuum leak is say, within the brake booster.

 

You must methodically trace the cause of the poor running, but the steps are simple.  Only change one thing at time, though.  

 

Good luck,

 

Ed

 

 

 

 

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Should I be lining up with the OT or the Z?  
 

I am lining up with the diamond on the flywheel which also lines Up with the pully mark. There is one mark on the pulley that stands alone and then there are 3 other marks that are beside each other equal distance apart. I’m using the mark on the pulley that also lines up with the. Diamond. I think the diamond is OT and the ruby is Z.

 

 

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So... I have no idea where you affixed your diamond or ruby, so I can only refer to the BMW marks.  I have learned NOT to trust the crank pulley marks, but if yours seem to line up with your flywheel, then perhaps it is okay.  The Z ball is 24 degrees BTDC, the OT line is TDC.

 

Can't find the timing marks (for real) 1975 02 - BMW 2002 and other '02 - BMW  2002 FAQ

 

Here's a good thread on pulley timing marks

 

 

 

What timing are you setting?  Are you using an advancing timing light, or a simple strobe light? In either case, a side drafted engine needs more advanced timing at low rpms.  If you don't have enough advance early on, this may explain why you have poor idle and running condition.  Which distributor are you using?

 

Your sparks plugs are gapped too wide, unless you are running an MSD system.  Gap with a standard ignition system should be .0024-0.028.

 

I find it interesting that #1 and #3 are sooty, but #2 and #4 are not.  Many times one carb will be running rich and foul the plugs for the two cylinders it feeds.  The "clean" plug in your picture looks a little lean (very white ceramic insulator).  

 

I would confirm your timing and use the timing numbers for a Ti model which would be something along the lines of 18 degrees at 1000rpm per the Blue BMW Manual and Haynes manuals.  If you are running a 123 Ignition simply use those numbers found in the Haynes manual (see attached)  IGNORE my handwritten notes about 33 degrees at 2000rpm)

 

After you get the plugs re-gapped and confirm your timing I can walk you through setting the Solexes.

 

Ed

 

Haynes ignition specs.pdf

 

 

Edited by zinz
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Thanks ED. I’ll Regap the plugs. I am using the 123 Bluetooth dizzy. I’m using a regular strobe and setting the timing using OT on the flywheel and it’s lining Up with the pulley mark.

 

I’ll get back to you once I regap. Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it as it’s been driving me crazy trying to eliminate the back fire.

 

 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, Naseem Jarjoura said:

I’m using a regular strobe and setting the timing using OT on the flywheel and it’s lining Up with the pulley mark

 

I think this might be why you are having troubles.

 

The OT line is Top Dead Center.  No matter what rpm you are setting your timing, it will never be advanced enough.

 

Here's how to get it right... it's easy.

 

What are your curve numbers for the 123?  Find where 24 degrees is on your curve.  If you only have a simple strobe timing light, use the Z ball (which is 24 degrees Before Top Dead Center) and bring the engine speed to where you have 24 degrees on your curve.  (the manual shows that for a Ti engine, 24 degrees should be occurring at about 1500-1700 rpm).  I bet it will run a LOT better after you do this.  No wonder it has been backfiring and fouling the plugs.  

 

I hope this helps!

 

Ed

 

 

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if you want to also use the front crank pulley marks, they will look like this:

 

The top notch is TDC

The middle notch is for static timing (don't use this one)

The lower notch is 24 degrees BTDC.  (this is the mark you will use in the exercise I described above)

 

 

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Car is running great. I set the timing as per your instruction and no more pop pop bang. I also went

though the valves and adjusted what needed to be adjusted to .006

I put some fresh spark plugs in and it just keeps getting better. It’s a real pleasure to drive now but still not perfect. The carbs are running pretty good but I think I need to set them up from scratch again. I’ve gone through the PHH40 set up twice a while back. Replaced the idle jets a few months ago along with all the other jets and even replaced one of the pump diaphram assemblies on one side as the arm that pushes the pump was bent and was contributing to fuel leak. I’ve taken the pump diaphragm apart a couple times to replace the gaskets. It’s stays dry for a while but i always end up getting slight fuel leak on the bottom of the carbs eventually. I used a piece of glass and 2000 grit sandpaper to get as flat a surface as possible for the gasket and diaphragm. I’m finding that the screws over time due to engine vibrating  loosen. In fact I go through all the bolts every so often and always find that I’m having to tighten things up. Mostly the nuts on the intake and bolts on the timing chain cover. I eliminated a lot of the loose bolts by using red thread lock ok them. I’m happy to continue using the original solex carbs although I feel like brand new Webber’s would really make a difference and bring the way this thing runs closer to perfection. Having said that, it’s the best it’s ever idled. It still sputters a bit while idling. I’m not getting that smooth consistent flow out the exhaust. Still sputtering but not back firing.

 

attached is what I’ve plugged into my 123 dizzy

 

 

 

 

 

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That is fantastic news, Naseem!  I'm so glad you were able to sort it out.  I think now that your timing is more correct, the idle will be smoother and nuts and bolts will be less likely to rattle loose.  I find myself going over my engine bay at least once a year snugging up any nut/bolt I can readily get to.  

 

Your 123 curve looks to be good, I've found you don't need too many points, especially if they are along the same line and not necessarily smoothing a portion of the curve.  

 

I feel you pain with the leaking accelerator pump gasket... I've had to replace one on my PHHs after only a year or so.  That gasket is not very wide in several areas and any mis-fitting can lead to a leak. I added a thin layer of gasket sealant to my last attempt and it seems to be holding.  I think I used Permatex Super Black...but just a small amount.  

 

If you still have some popping at idle you might try turning out the mixture screws just a bit.  My PHHs will pop some before it is completely warmed up.  Maybe you can use your choke to richen the mixture at idle and see if that helps, though that would only be a band-aid and not really solving the root of the problem.  I bet going up 1/2 size in you pilot jet will be enough to solve that low rpm popping.  

 

Don't give up on the PHHs... they can be made to run very nicely.  Have you checked for vacuum leaks around the throttle shafts?  Spray some carb cleaner, or starting fluid around the base of the carbs and the throttle shafts while the engine is idling.  Any change in rpm may indicate a vacuum leak.  These old Solexes are notorious for having leaking throttle shafts (there is no bushing in the carb body, so the steel shaft will wear on the softer metal of the carb body...resulting in a vacuum leak)  A simple fix?  Smear heavy axle grease on the throttle shafts and it should seal them well enough... at least it has helped on the DDH carbs on my '71 2002.  The PHHs on my 2000CS don't leak, fortunately.  

 

Here's a quick video of my 2000CS with the PHHs. This was just as I was getting it all put back together.  This engine has been worked over with lots of combustion chamber polishing, ported and different cam, I've tried to get it to idle at 850rpm, but it just seems happier at 950-1000rpm; I'm okay with that.  As you can see, it's very smooth.

 

 

Sounds like you are down to the final 5%... small adjustments from now on will get you that last bit.

 

Happy I was able to help,


Ed Z

Edited by zinz
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Thank you for putting it into perspective for me. Was actually really enjoying the drive yesterday. Your engine Looks and sounds great. Nice and clean. 
 

I’m happy if I’m idling at 1000. I noticed you are using copper nuts on the intake manifold and carbs. I’m using the brass ones from iE on the manifold but I like the copper idea for the carbs. I also noticed where you positioned your fuel filter. You have it after the pump where as I have placed mine before the pump. Any reason for that?  I  had two fuel filters at one point and disconnected the original one when I was having issues with air getting pulled into the lines. Replaced all the fuel lines and solved that problem. I still have the original one. I’ll probably just put it in for esthetics and not connect it. 

Were you having springs made for

your 2000? I seem to remember a thread regarding front and rear spring replacement. I put the big blue sway bar from IE in the front and kept the original in the rear. 
 

I cut the springs all around to lower the car but regret it as it handled better prior to cutting the springs. Now I want to replace them or find someone that makes coil overs. 

 

 

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