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Upper spring pad solution for rear adjustable perches?


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I went the route a lot of folks have and got the adjustable perches for the rear using 5in springs:

image.png


There's a good 1/2" of slop between the perch and spring ID which allows the springs to move around. I got some Energy Suspension spring pad / isolators (below) that take up some of the slop but not all of it. The spring can still move around enough that it will squeeze the isolators out of the way towards the rear of the car. In other words the top rear of the spring will be touching the metal perch as it's squeezed the isolator out like cheese on a burger when you press down on it!

Under hard cornering I can hear/feel the isolator get squeezed out (thunk! noise) then pops back into place once the weight shifts the opposite direction.

Energy Suspension doesn't make an isolator that's the correct size for this setup. Has anyone found some that fit snugly? The vertical lip on the isolators below needs to be like 2-3x thicker towards the center, shrinking the ID.

9.6104_front | Front Coil Spring Isolator Pads - Toyota Tacoma

Edited by Mucci
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I'm running the EnergySuspension #96120s up top, and the #96107s below (zip-tied) on mine, with IE 5" race springs paired with Carrera Hyper-shocks.  I haven’t seen any off-isolator movement or thunking…

 

Tom

 

Updated_Rear_Suspension.jpg

Edited by visionaut
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I never found anything that would stay put-

 

one thing that helps, though, is to strap the rear suspension

so that the spring stays slightly pre- loaded.  Yes, you lose

travel and potentially inside grip.

 

Those perches were designed for a spring that has a linear travel,

and the rear end of everything through the Zed3 does that folding-

scissor-action thing that makes it really hard to keep things in place.

Also, the perches are for racing, so there's no clearance for a pad.

 

I eventually gave up, made 2 1/2" hardware, and went to smaller springs.

 

That helped a lot, both with spring rate and with things moving around,

as there are lots of 2 1/2" parts available.

 

it did involve cutting and welding...

 

t

 

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23 hours ago, visionaut said:

I'm running the EnergySuspension #96120s up top, and the #96107s below (zip-tied) on mine, with IE 5" race springs paired with Carrera Hyper-shocks.  I haven’t seen any off-isolator movement or thunking…

 

Tom

 

Updated_Rear_Suspension.jpg


 

I’m using the 96120’s up top as well. 
 

When I hear the “ping/thunk” I can stop, get out and reach to the top of the spring and feel the poly squished out. 

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10 hours ago, TobyB said:

I never found anything that would stay put-

 

one thing that helps, though, is to strap the rear suspension

so that the spring stays slightly pre- loaded.  Yes, you lose

travel and potentially inside grip.

 

Those perches were designed for a spring that has a linear travel,

and the rear end of everything through the Zed3 does that folding-

scissor-action thing that makes it really hard to keep things in place.

Also, the perches are for racing, so there's no clearance for a pad.

 

I eventually gave up, made 2 1/2" hardware, and went to smaller springs.

 

That helped a lot, both with spring rate and with things moving around,

as there are lots of 2 1/2" parts available.

 

it did involve cutting and welding...

 

t

 


How does converting to smaller diameter  springs fix the scissor action?

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9 hours ago, Mucci said:


How does converting to smaller diameter  springs fix the scissor action?


The smaller the diameter of the spring, the less height the “floating” end of the spring will be away from the scissored spring perches. 
 

I used some leftover Ohlins springs from a Ducati on the back of one of my E30s with some nylon top hat shaped spacers that fit the car and the spring snuggly. I made one end thick enough I could trim it to my desired ride height so no adjustable collar. It worked fantastic. 

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48 minutes ago, Lorin said:


The smaller the diameter of the spring, the less height the “floating” end of the spring will be away from the scissored spring perches. 
 

I used some leftover Ohlins springs from a Ducati on the back of one of my E30s with some nylon top hat shaped spacers that fit the car and the spring snuggly. I made one end thick enough I could trim it to my desired ride height so no adjustable collar. It worked fantastic. 

You got a picture of that?  That's probably a 2.25" spring, probably about 7" long?

 

Toby?  You got a picture?

 

I, too, have found my car makes a LOT of spring noise, front and rear.  I just figured it was rotation.  My rears are 5x11?  Something like that.

 

And yeah, closed and ground springs aren't going to accept a piece of heater hose- just not how they're designed.

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12 hours ago, Mucci said:


How does converting to smaller diameter  springs fix the scissor action?

Sorry, it isn't a complete fix, but it reduces the distances and forces immensely.

A 5" spring opens up a gap wide enough that the edge of the darned thing

will wear the threads on the sleeve.  That was a big problem I was having with 'em.

 

A 2.25 spring opens up a smaller gap, and it doesn't climb above the perch, usually.

Plus, 2.25 was easy to make parts for.  On top of that, I used relatively cheap- ass

springs, so they took a set at an angle, and that helped a lot.

 

I tried the tubing, too- the edge of the adjustable perch just sliced it off.

 

Flat rubber would inevitably get squirted out from under the spring.

 

If I had been compelled by rules to stay 5", I would have tried a 

rocking top perch- I had a LOT of trouble with the E30's rear handling,

and it came back to the springs, in the end.

Let's just say I chased my tail in that car far more in one season than I 

EVER did in 10 years in the 2002.

 

t

nota lotta help, sorry...

 

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2 hours ago, irdave said:

You got a picture of that?  That's probably a 2.25" spring, probably about 7" long?

 

Toby?  You got a picture?

 

I, too, have found my car makes a LOT of spring noise, front and rear.  I just figured it was rotation.  My rears are 5x11?  Something like that.

 

And yeah, closed and ground springs aren't going to accept a piece of heater hose- just not how they're designed.

I’d like to see pictures of what you did for 2.5” springs as well, @TobyB
 

For what it’s worth, the Ground control adjusters include a plastic cup that does a decent job of keeping the spring from moving around too much or making noise. I do have to be careful when lowering the car from having it in the air on a lift or jack stands, to ensure the springs land in the right spot, but I haven’t experienced any movement while driving.

 

I keep meaning to figure out the travel limiting straps so I don’t have to think about the springs when lifting and lowering the car. 

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Posted (edited)

How often do you think you’d reach the strap limit during spirited driving with a 5x8” spring?

 

It sounds like it’d make things convenient when raising the car up but if it meant losing traction somewhat often when driving hard I don’t know if it’s worth it. 
 

I’m running 300# Front and 250# Rear. 

Edited by Mucci
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