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So I bought this '74 '02 last week. Yay! now the fun begins, Har!

 

So it starts right up when the engine is cold but if I drive around a bit and go run an errand, for instance, it does not want to turn over. It take three or four tries.

It's a Weber carburetor, but the rest of the car is stock as fa as I am aware. Also it is leaking some fuel at the base.

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The Weber should not be leaking fuel....ever!

Take the top off and clean the float bowl and float needle. Check the float level. A heavy float will cause fuel to dribble down the inside of the carb and pool at the bottom of the intake manifold, but will not leak on the outside.

Remove and clean the idle jet and mixture screw.

Check the pump diaphragm and power valve.

Check the operation of the choke assembly.

Replace any suspect gaskets, fuel lines or fuel filter.

If everything is good and assembled properly, and tuned correctly, the Weber is a great carb.

Also, there is a large amount of discussion here on the vapor lock issues with the current gas. Check the forum for suggested remedies to minimize the "hard-restart when hot" issues.

Welcome again to "The Club".

 

John

 

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9 minutes ago, John76 said:

The Weber should not be leaking fuel....ever!

Take the top off and clean the float bowl and float needle. Check the float level. A heavy float will cause fuel to dribble down the inside of the carb and pool at the bottom of the intake manifold, but will not leak on the outside.

Remove and clean the idle jet and mixture screw.

Check the pump diaphragm and power valve.

Check the operation of the choke assembly.

Replace any suspect gaskets, fuel lines or fuel filter.

If everything is good and assembled properly, and tuned correctly, the Weber is a great carb.

Also, there is a large amount of discussion here on the vapor lock issues with the current gas. Check the forum for suggested remedies to minimize the "hard-restart when hot" issues.

Welcome again to "The Club".

 

John

 

These are all great suggestions but I am a total neub so I am going to need more of a step by step insturuction maybe a youtube vid. I will try to google it

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If it's a 2 barrel downdraft Weber then it's either gonna be a 32/36 DGV (manual choke), DGAV (water activated automatic choke) or DGEV (electric automatic choke) or a 38/38.  They're almost identical except the 32/36 has a second barrel that only begins to open when the first barrel is about 3/4 open, while the 38/38 has synchronized barrel--both open simultaneously.  But they come apart for cleaning almost identically. 

 

My 32/36 is always more reluctant to start after sitting hot for awhile, and the time is dependent on the outside temperature--the colder the air, the longer it can sit before it becomes reluctant.  It's always been that way, and with two different Weber 32/36's.

 

mike

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Hey Steve - if I recall correctly your carb is a 32/36. They are indeed easily serviceable and a rebuild kit is very cheap. I don't remember seeing a fuel leak, but it was a little moist with what looked like oil spray from the valve cover breather. Text me a video if there's an active leak

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Thanks all for the replies. Just watched the video on rebuild the carb and I think it a bit beyond my current skill set. A friend told me there is a carburetor shop near here in Pomona so I think I will go that route

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1 minute ago, Son of Marty said:

Why not find a friendly local 02 guy, there are plenty in So Cal to show you how to do it it's easy with someone who has done it and then you'll learn.

I agree with you

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2 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Why not find a friendly local 02 guy, there are plenty in So Cal to show you how to do it it's easy with someone who has done it and then you'll learn.

Once you've watched (and participated) in a carb rebuild, it'll be easy for you.  The first time is always the scariest.

 

mike

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Hard hot starting isn't a direct reason to 'rebuild' the carb.

 

First, 'turn over' to me means to rotate, and an engine that won't

'turn over' is a starter/battery problem.

What you mean is 'fire' 'catch' or start.

 

Unless it really DOES take 3 or 4 turns of the key to get noise and engine rotation

under the hood, at which point you might have an ignition or starter issue.

 

One of the more common hard start causes when hot is carb flooding-

the fuel boils in the bowl and lines, and leaks into the intake manifold,

below the carb.  That would also explain your external fuel.

The test for this is to push the pedal to the floor,  hold it there,

then try to start the car.  If it cranks for 3-6 revolutions and then catches,

it's pretty likely flooding.

 

The fix is harder- it's a problem with the low boiling point of modern 'fuel'

and keeping the carb cool enough to not do it is darned near impossible.

 

Yes, your carb may need new seals, a float, and a couple of diaphragms,

but only the float level (too high) would contribute to this problem.

 

t

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