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Is the crown nut on the drive flange reverse threaded?


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Is the crown nut (#9) reversed threaded? Killing myself trying to get it off. Impact gun has nothing on this #*^(@$!  Of course I made it infinitely harder by taking the subframe off before loosening the dang thing
Side shaft/wheel bearings
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Every so often (one in maybe 6)

those things will friction weld themselves in place.

 

At which point, you get to cut them off.

 

t

 

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I recall that when I rebuilt my rear subframe the torque specification of that nut was 300 ftlbs, IIRC.  I made a 4 foot breaker bar to tighten it.  You could try the same with a 4' piece of 2" steel pipe and a 1/2" drive regular 18" breaker bar inside the pipe. 

HubNutTighten2SML.jpg

Edit: a 3/4" drive breaker bar would be stronger.

 

If you don't own a breaker bar, they're nice to have.  They come in handy quite often with old cars.

 

Edited by PaulTWinterton
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I broke a cheap 1/2" hinge handle breaker bar trying to loosen one of those nuts on an old VW.  They get put on at 300 ft#, (or 250, or whatever the book says) but if they are stuck it can take a lot more than that to remove them.  I have a 3/4" bar now and can jump on it with confidence.  I took this photo at the wrecking yard when I was considering swapping in e21 drums/brakes, but once I saw a bunch of dirty old parts inside I decided to just stick with what I have.  I welded the angle iron onto an old drum to keep it from spinning, since they pull the wheels off of the car.  I got scolded for bringing the jack and lifting it up.  It was still fun.

 

070.JPG

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