Hard Start

[ramayah]

I can’t get it started unless I primed the carb. Weber 32/36. 1976 2002.

Need your help .

[adawil2002]

May have a fuel line that's compromised & sucking air or your fuel pump diaphragm is weak or failing.

 

[resra]

I had similar issue and turned out the Mechanical pump attached to the head was slowly failing. 

['76mintgrün'02]

Yes, what they said makes sense to me too. 

 

I'd start by removing the trunk floor board that covers the gas tank and make sure the fuel lines are fresh.  If they still have cloth covering, replace them with new hoses. 

 

There is a plastic sleeve that is slipped on the nipple on the fuel sender (tank) that tends to crack and that will let the pump suck air in, instead of fuel.  That sleeve is there to make the nipple the same size as the plastic fuel line that the other end of that hose connects to.  The plastic line is the same size as the sleeve, so you can cut an inch off of that and slip it onto the nipple if yours is cracked or missing.  Bypass pruning shears make great cutters for this (as well as fuel hose).

 

That's where I'd start.

Tom

[ray_]

1 hour ago, ramayah said:

 

Need your help .

I may be late.

 

Google maps is failing me....

[Mike Self]

Besides what's already been mentioned:

 

If your Weber has an automatic choke, are you "setting" the choke before a cold (or cooled-off) start?  You need to depress the accelerator pedal to the floor--once should do it--to close the choke butterflys and crank up the fast idle cam.  Otherwise you're doing a cold start with no choke at all.  

 

If it's hard to start when warm, it might be vapor lock from a fuel line that's running a little too close (or touching) something hot, like the intake manifold or cylinder head.  Make sure that fuel line is clipped away from heat sources.  And do you have a heat block (phenolic resin spacer) between the carb and manifold?  That keeps the carb cool(er) and helps prevent fuel boiling out of the float chamber.

 

mike

[ramayah]

It used to start perfectly. But a month or so ago it’s not starting unless it’s primed.

The fuel lines appear good. 
When I crank it no fuel is coming out from the pump to the carb.

The rubber fuel line from the sender is taut with no air coming off it. 
I think I’m going to replace the fuel pump. Any suggestions Tom, Mike and others?

Thanks  and Happy July 4.

Randy

[ray_]

How hot is it there?

['76mintgrün'02]

39 minutes ago, ramayah said:

I think I’m going to replace the fuel pump. Any suggestions Tom, Mike and others?

 

I suggest you disconnect the rubber hose where it comes off of the firewall and put it in a little bottle with gasoline in it and remove the hose at the carburetor and put it in an empty bottle.  Then crank it over and see if fuel is pumped from one bottle to the other.  If not, then I would replace the pump.

 

It does not sound like you removed the fuel line at the tank, to inspect the plastic bushing.  The hose might still feel tight if you tug on it, but air could still get through there if the plastic sleeve is cracked.

 

If you are shopping for a pump, get the long-neck style.  The shorty does not clear the coolant hose between the divider and manifold and presses down on it.  That hose gets hot and becomes a fuel pump heater, which you don't want. 

 

If you type "stubby pump" in the search box you will see photos and several discussions.

Tom

[ramayah]

75*F

[ramayah]

Tom, 

Do I have to remove the sender from the tank to check it. I cut a piece of the black line and tightened it but it wouldn’t start.

I’m looking to get the Pierberg pump. It looks like mine. The one in the car is very close to the hose and touches the inlet fuel line a bit.

Is the Pierberg OKAY?

Thanks

Randy

['76mintgrün'02]

Please post a link or photograph of the Pierberg pump you are typing about.  Photos of the one you have would be nice too.  Photos are very helpful. 

 

Thanks for the photo of the tank top.  It does not look like you have the plastic sleeve on the metal nipple coming out of the tank.  It looks like 8mm or 5/16" fuel line tightened down with the clamp, trying to reach a nipple that is too small.  If you remove the rubber hose and snip an inch off of the end of the plastic fuel line you can press that onto the tank nipple and then reinstall the hose.

[ray_]

57 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

I suggest you disconnect the rubber hose where it comes off of the firewall and put it in a little bottle with gasoline in it and remove the hose at the carburetor and put it in an empty bottle.  Then crank it over and see if fuel is pumped from one bottle to the other.  If not, then I would replace the pump.

 

It does not sound like you removed the fuel line at the tank, to inspect the plastic bushing.  The hose might still feel tight if you tug on it, but air could still get through there if the plastic sleeve is cracked.

 

If you are shopping for a pump, get the long-neck style.  The shorty does not clear the coolant hose between the divider and manifold and presses down on it.  That hose gets hot and becomes a fuel pump heater, which you don't want. 

 

If you type "stubby pump" in the search box you will see photos and several discussions.

Tom

Also, don't catch anything important on fire.

 

Cheers,

[ramayah]

Tom,

I did snip out a pieced of the black line  coming out of the tank and clamped it tightly.

I just removed the pump and it had some gas in it. I believe it failed to pump gas to the carb. 
I will try to send you a photo of mine before I removed it. And later the Pierberg pump.

I appreciate your help.

Thanks

Randy

[ramayah]

Thanks