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I've been replacing the 30 year old--and worn out--urethane alternator mounts on my carbureted '73 and discovered an anomaly--the pivot bolt from which the alternator hangs is the standard 8mm in diameter, with a 13mm (wrench size) nut, but the bolt head is only 12mm. 

 

I'm quite sure the bolt is original to the car, as I've never replaced it in my 43 years of ownership, and the previous owner didn't do any of his own repairs.  Is that original to y'all's cars to, or ???  I didn't remember that from the last time I messed with the alternator, which admittedly was a long time ago when I changed a fan belt.  

 

mike

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The head is 13mm on mine.  So is the nut.  The same's true for the adjuster bolt/nut too.   I had the alternator out and in a couple of times today.  (long story) I used 13, 10, 8

The nut broke off the M8 alternator pivot bolt on my tii recently.  The last time it was off was in 2009 when I replaced the alternator.  I’ve found that by removing the (4) screws holding the radiato

Belmetric has them in zinc plated steel:  https://www.belmetric.com/jis-small-wrench-c-3_58_2280/nj8x11lylw-jis-nut-long-yellow-zinc-p-6288.html?zenid=vnett8tm3qso12vb55jdg8kk22   CIP1 has t

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There are a few cases of that-

E36 handbrake adjustment lock nuts, for example-

 

but I don't remember coming across a 12mm bolt on the alternator.

 

It's certainly a good IDEA back when belts lasted 20k miles and you got to fix it

with the tools in the... oh, wait... there's no 12mm in the tool kit.

 

Nope, someone slipped you a Toyota bolt while you weren't looking.

 

heh

 

t

 

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The head is 13mm on mine.  So is the nut. 

The same's true for the adjuster bolt/nut too.

 

I had the alternator out and in a couple of times today.  (long story)

I used 13, 10, 8 mm wrenches.

 

I finally figured out a fun way to tension the belt.  I have a drawer full of pry bars and could never find a good way to pry up on it.  It finally occurred to me to pull uP on it.

 

I doubled a rope around it and then up and over a 2x2, with the upcoming rope wrapped over the other, so it bites down on it when you lift.  No knots required! 

 

IMG_9079.JPG

 

IMG_9081.JPG

 

If you need more lift, just twist the stick clockwise to take another wrap. 

 

IMG_9085.JPG

 

There's plenty of leverage with the far end sitting on the valve cover. 

 

 

Now I'll look forward to that job. 

(again soon)

Tom

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5 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

The head is 13mm on mine.  So is the nut. 

The same's true for the adjuster bolt/nut too.

 

I had the alternator out and in a couple of times today.  (long story)

I used 13, 10, 8 mm wrenches.

 

I finally figured out a fun way to tension the belt.  I have a drawer full of pry bars and could never find a good way to pry up on it.  It finally occurred to me to pull uP on it.

 

I doubled a rope around it and then up and over a 2x2, with the upcoming rope wrapped over the other, so it bites down on it when you lift.  No knots required! 

 

IMG_9079.JPG

 

IMG_9081.JPG

 

If you need more lift, just twist the stick clockwise to take another wrap. 

 

IMG_9085.JPG

 

There's plenty of leverage with the far end sitting on the valve cover. 

 

 

Now I'll look forward to that job. 

(again soon)

Tom

I gather you hold that with your third hand?

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6 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

The head is 13mm on mine.  So is the nut. 

The same's true for the adjuster bolt/nut too.

 

I had the alternator out and in a couple of times today.  (long story)

I used 13, 10, 8 mm wrenches.

 

I finally figured out a fun way to tension the belt.  I have a drawer full of pry bars and could never find a good way to pry up on it.  It finally occurred to me to pull uP on it.

 

I doubled a rope around it and then up and over a 2x2, with the upcoming rope wrapped over the other, so it bites down on it when you lift.  No knots required! 

 

IMG_9079.JPG

 

IMG_9081.JPG

 

If you need more lift, just twist the stick clockwise to take another wrap. 

 

IMG_9085.JPG

 

There's plenty of leverage with the far end sitting on the valve cover. 

 

 

Now I'll look forward to that job. 

(again soon)

Tom

Great. Now I need to go buy a 2x2.

 

😁🤡

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2 hours ago, Hans said:

you hold that with your third hand?

 

Friction held the bolt while I tightened the nut enough to hold it there.  Then I used two wrenches.

 

2 hours ago, ray_ said:

Great. Now I need to go buy a 2x2.

 

😁🤡

 

You'd better buy a rope too!  I used a fatter one the first time around.

 

IMG_9076.JPG

 

That pretty CVG red cedar 2x2 came out of the scrap bin at the lumber yard last Saturday, when I bought two CVG cedar 4x4s, so it was Free!  The 4x4s were 10' and 12' and those 22 lineal feet cost $235.00!  (they are not for me)

 

With the current price of lumber, maybe my new solewtion isn't practical.  No shortage of scrap lumber around here.


Tom

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9 hours ago, Mike Self said:

Is that original to y'all's cars to, or ???

OEM.  Noted long ago.  If two wrenches are needed, are there 2 separate wrenches in the tool kit?  Smart engineering, fix the car with the tools in the kit.

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9 minutes ago, visionaut said:

No way I’d ever leverage a wood beam on/across my valve cover…

 

Having seen your polished cover, I can see why you wouldn't want to do that.  Your post needs a photo.

 

It does not take much force to lift the alternator.  I use minimal tension, so I don't put strain on the bearings, or the water pump bearings.

 

The pivot bolt on mine is almost a half an inch longer than it needs to be, so it may not be original.  BMW wouldn't be that wasteful.


Tom

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3 hours ago, Hans said:

I see a speck of dust there...

 

I seem to recall some early alternators with a fixed stud.

Has anyone tried the ratcheting arm?

I have the ratcheting arm on my tii (from a FAQ’r). Excellent.  On the 69, I used the BMW one from an e30- but had to slightly modify it with some bending.

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