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Removal of Heater Control Levers (1970)


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1970 2002

I need to remove the two the Bowden cable lever devices behind the two silver cover plates [PHOTO 1] to (1) lube and refurbish them and (2) add the cable clamping arm/pieces [PHOTO 2] which anchor the cables onto the lever device.  My observations and experience and FAQ comments indicate I need to remove at least the lower part of the dash to access the lever devices.

Q 1:   Any pearls re: the aforementioned removal?

Q 2:  Anyone have a couple of those little arm/pieces with a hole and 3 bends and desires to make some cash?

Thanks,

Larry

NOTE:  Source of PHOTO 2 - NYNick (FAQ, 10/25/17).  I hope using your photo is OK.

 

IMG_2825.jpeg

20171025_162230.thumb.jpg.be44d618ba1f755e773e9842086de106.jpg

 

 

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Pull off the black nubs that are on the ends of the lever, pop off the chrome plates, use a plastic lever so not to scratch them, this will reveal 2 screws, undo them and then push the lever plate out of the back, yes you will need to remove the under dash cards if you want full access after the plates are free.

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SydneyTii,

I believe you refer to later dashes, like my '74tii.  Your suggestion is exactly how it works for that car.  No problem.  On this early '02 (1970) I believe I have either to remove the lower dash or to somehow finagle going through the back - a big PITA, as stated by rms.  

Thanks, guys.

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When you reinstall the box pay attention to the bends in the Bowden cables(control cables) try take a route that allows the largest bends, it really makes a difference in the smoothness of the levers and life of the cables. 

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you do not have to take the levers or dash off.

in picture 2 you can see the "C" clip on the end 

at the lever. just above you can see the clamp that holds

the cable housing in place. after 30 plus years of fixing these,

the easiest way to get the cables off and then lower the box is

to take the cable ends off and leave the levers in place.  pay 

attention to all the nuts and washers that hold it all together.

the reinstall is tedious but simple. just line up the crimp marks

in the cable housings and retighten.

stone 

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Excellent!  Thanks, guys.  This will be the 5th heater box I have removed and rebuilt.  However, the levers on this one have been the most difficult to remove.  I might simply leave them in place.  Not a big deal.  Pretty lucky to have all Bowden cables intact and to have solid O ends to (re)attach to the levers.

 

See photo of current rabbit hole.  The box looked scary bad; might not have ever been out of the car; certainly has never been opened (original rivets).  However, 12V perked the motor into solid commendable action.  Wish me luck on the valve.

 

Q: Anyone have any of those handy-dandy clips?  Dis car ain't got none.  

 

Larry

 

IMG_2850.jpeg

 

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I can tell you what won't work when replacing the Bowden cables that go into the heater box:  cutting a hole in the heater box to access the box end of the cables.  You can reach 'em via the hole, but you can't pull 'em off their connections or install new ones.  I ended up having to remove the heater box after all--and that after I thought I had figured out an easier way to do the job.  So my 69's heater box now has a nice, neatly covered hole in the bakelite housing. 

 

mike 

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5 hours ago, 2002#3 said:

SydneyTii,

I believe you refer to later dashes, like my '74tii.  Your suggestion is exactly how it works for that car.  No problem.  On this early '02 (1970) I believe I have either to remove the lower dash or to somehow finagle going through the back - a big PITA, as stated by rms.  

Thanks, guys.

Yep mines a 74 didn’t realise the early cars were different!

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Posted (edited)

Mike,

I never had any intention of cutting a hole in the box or trying to replace the cables w/o removing the box.  The box is out and so are the cables (photo).  Heater boxes always have to come out.

Larry

Edited by 2002#3
spelling error
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As to removing the lever assembly:

 

on the early cars, step one is to remove the entire dash.

 

So do it Stone's way, and disconnect the cables instead.

 

It's a pain, but it's do- able.

 

t

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