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Weber 32/36 DGAV Throttle Linkage. Stumped!


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Stock 1974 with CA smog here. Thanks to Covfefe19,  I drove maybe all of 100 miles in the last year. Cancelled my CSAA insurance in September rather than renew it at their extortionate prices and basically did not go anywhere for six months.

 

While getting things ready to start driving again, I began fooling around with my 32/36 DGAV Weber and concluded that with the stock  linkage I am nowhere near able to fully open the throttle.

 

Got out my tap and die set and extended the threads on the rod that comes up from the pedal. I now have full throttle, but cannot get the idle speed down to reasonable RPM. All linkage components have been cleaned and lubed.

 

Is this some 1970s CA smog rules artifact -- that I cannot run this carb at full throttle? I notice there is a stop on the gas pedal that also inhibits full throttle.

 

If anybody has been down this road already, I'd greatly appreciate some direction.

 

Thanks!

 

Scott

Edited by kiloscott
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First is your car an automatic or manual?

 

There should be a screw on the carburetor throttle linkage too adjust idle speed, but you might also need to adjust the idle fuel screw too.

 

Purple arrow shows idle speed adjustment screw, green arrow is idle mixture screw.2925.jpg

 

Edited by 2002iii
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It's manual.

 

Smog stuff has been removed or disabled.

 

The idle speed screw is not the problem. Cranking down the idle mixture will just make things worse.

 

I can restore everything to initial conditions and the car runs just fine for SF Bay Area driving, but I am nowhere near able to fully open the throttle. I can't help but think this must be some CA smog nonsense from the 1970s.

 

Beginning to think I have to take the thing apart and machine some of the cams on these butterfly assemblies.

 

Thanks!

 

Scott

 

 

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3 minutes ago, kiloscott said:

Ah, hadn't thought of that.

 

Time to jack it up and take a look.

 

You are thinking outside the (pedal) box.

 

Many Thanks!

 

Scott


Many 2002s are improperly adjusted this way.  I set the upper adjuster about in the middle of its range and remove the lower throttle arm from the accelerator pedal shaft. Hold the throttle wide open on the carb and with the accelerator pedal matted to the floor, install lower lever and tighten it with your 5th hand. Fine tune with the upper adjuster. 
 

This way sets full throttle and the rest by default is correct. 

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Lorin hit the nail on the head, some times the arm on the pedal box slips if so you can remove the arm you'll find that each side of the clamp has a drop of braze on it to prevent over tightening you can file a little bit off to allow more grip 

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2 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

you'll find that each side of the clamp has a drop of braze on it to prevent over tightening you can file a little bit off to allow more grip 

 

This is what I had to do.  I did not see any brazing, but the two sides of the clamp were touching, so I opened up the notch and it got a good grip on the shaft again.

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Another thing to check is the tension and position of the throttle return spring that's fastened to the accelerator linkage, and to a tab on the firewall.  It could be that the spring has lost some of its tension over the years, or that it's installed in such a way that the spring rubs against the heater hose.  That'll cause it to hang up--and eventually wear a hole in the heater hose.  Make sure it's connected at each end so that it stands proud of the hose.

 

mike

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42 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

This is what I had to do.  I did not see any brazing, but the two sides of the clamp were touching, so I opened up the notch and it got a good grip on the shaft again.


This is my experience as well. 
 

I have seen more than a couple cars with the lever welded or brazed on to the shaft, perhaps Son of Marty’s car had some remnants of a similar repair. 

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Posted (edited)

Thank you to everybody for their considered replies.

 

Got under there and looked at the bottom end of the rod connecting the gas pedal to the linkage that operates the carb. The function of this rod is strictly linear. What I did by cutting more threads at the top end of the rod was compromise whatever adjusting capacity there might be at the bottom of the rod. I eventually arrived at full throttle, but in doing so I can no longer adjust the idle speed to 1000 RPM or lower.

 

If anybody is in the sort of adventurous mood I was in when this whole thing started, they might like to do the following:

 

1 Take off the air cleaner and expose the throttle linkage and the throat of the carburetor

2 Press the gas pedal full to the floor and keep it there with a brick or piece of wood or something. You don't even have to start the motor.

3 See if you can't further open the throttle at either the carb itself or by pressing down on the pedal rod. I was able to do this by quite a lot and was quite surprised.

 

This led me to cut more threads, I then road tested things and Hey! What's this?

 

Factor in the stop on the underside of the gas pedal and it makes me wonder how a 32/36 is actually meant to operate. It seems designed to not let you run at full throttle, which would have been foremost in the minds of 1970s CA smog regulators.

 

I can see how installing a throttle return spring with much greater tension might solve this problem, as I can get the car to stall by twisting the linkage strenuously in the opposite direction and fully closing the butterflies. But the necessary tension seems like it might make the gas pedal rather difficult to operate.

 

Will get this sorted and report back.

 

Just one more effing thing...

 

Thanks!

 

Scott

 

Edited by kiloscott
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15 minutes ago, kiloscott said:

Thank you to everybody for their considered replies.

 

Got under there and looked at the bottom end of the rod connecting the gas pedal to the linkage that operates the carb. The function of this rod is strictly linear. What I did by cutting more threads at the top end of the rod was compromise whatever adjusting capacity there might be at the bottom of the rod. I eventually arrived at full throttle, but in doing so I can no longer adjust the idle speed to 1000 RPM or lower.

 

If anybody is in the sort of adventurous mood I was in when this whole thing started, they might like to do the following:

 

1 Take off the air cleaner and expose the throttle linkage and the throat of the carburetor

2 Press the gas pedal full to the floor and keep it there with a brick or piece of wood or something. You don't even have to start the motor.

3 See if you can't further open the throttle at either the carb itself or by pressing down on the pedal rod. I was able to do this by quite a lot and was quite surprised.

 

This led me to cut more threads, I then road tested things and Hey! What's this? Factor in the stop on the underside of the gas pedal and it makes me wonder how a 32/36 is actually meant to operate. It seems designed to not let you run at full throttle, which would have been foremost in the minds of 1970s CA smog regulators.

 

I can see how installing a gas pedal return spring with much greater tension might solve this problem, as I can get the car to stall by twisting the linkage strenuously in the opposite direction and fully closing the butterflies. But the necessary tension seems like it might make the gas pedal rather difficult to operate.

 

Will get this sorted and report back.

 

Just one more effing thing...

 

Thanks!

 

Scott

 

Ok, the way you have to look at this is why is this happening to my car and not the thousands of other 2002 running a 32/36 weber, not getting full throttle wouldn't someone else noticed this, or did they build my car wrong or is something else out of adjustment? 

Edited by Son of Marty
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