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3D Printing & Drawing Bmw2002 Parts STL file sharing


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As in the title        2002 today ! (Click and hold to edit title)">What did you do to your 2002 today !   

Let's share here the 3D Printing & drawing  stl files produced or produced for BMW2002.

 
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Edited by Berk Ergin
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I don't have the file immediately on hand but I have a v1 of a bracket for the jack and lug wrench in US square light cars. The dimensions are good now it just needs the cut outs to be a little more f

I print >95% of the time with PETG.  Bed temp is 80, nozzle temp is 245, slow to half speed for the first layer.  PVA glue on the bed.   Sorry, not 2002 related.  It's my other hobby.  Th

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Man, I've been trying to get PETG to work; I'm sure the ABS fumes are bad for what little is left of my brain.  Can't get it to stick to the bed well enough, consistently enough...

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So you post this right after I spend two days sawing on acrylic and ABS to make a panel meter bezel and lense to install my AFR panel meter readout in the “fasten seat belts” pod.  All the while thinking ‘there must be a thousand high school kids around here who could laser print all this s__t!”  80750B36-2F5C-491D-A8C1-F2033F946478.jpeg

9ACDDDDF-463C-4999-A453-41359F959AC9.jpeg

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47 minutes ago, Wilbur25 said:

@irdaveGive painters tape or an elmers gluestick on your bed a try. I've had trouble removing PETG from my printbed its stuck so well but its a Prusa with a PEI build platform, not sure which machine you're using.

Uh, this advanced workstation right here:

71044A80-7626-436A-9039-E12E359BBACE.jpeg

Seriously, if you know how to machine one of these setups you’ll get some takers.  There are a bunch of guys out there checking their AFRs through the sanded-off original red lenses with one hand on the wheel and the other acting as a sunshade.  A clear acrylic solution for this, with the attaching ears, would be a brilliant little laser print project.  Volunteers?

BF789D3D-50CB-48E1-B699-E6094DFBC78B.jpeg

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22 minutes ago, Wilbur25 said:

I could make a run of some and laser cut them out of acrylic. Any dimensions available would help.


I’d be in for 2 and could send someone an original lens for scanning if needed. Thanks. 

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2 hours ago, Wilbur25 said:

@irdaveGive painters tape or an elmers gluestick on your bed a try. I've had trouble removing PETG from my printbed its stuck so well but its a Prusa with a PEI build platform, not sure which machine you're using.

 

I would try some painters tape.  I've been using elmer's gluestick with hit and miss results.  I'm using a Lulzbot Taz 6 with the stock glass/pei bed.  I know they've come out with a newer one recently that you can remove and flex to get the prints off.

 

I have a lot of problems with it gooing the nozzle as well.  It starts running before it starts printing, then sticks to the nozzle and not the bed and I walk back out to the shop and make the part on the lathe anyway.

 

Probably need different temperatures, but I'm sure I haven't spent enough time with it.  Just wishing the stock settings on the slicer would spec better to start.

 

Happy to entertain any thoughts on the matter.

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1 hour ago, Wilbur25 said:

I could make a run of some and laser cut them out of acrylic. Any dimensions available would help.

Measurement not my strong suit, but here’s what I have with assistance from cheap Chinese micrometer (in mm):

9EA6CC1F-8008-4C45-BD95-A2DA88B6375C.jpeg

Some photos of the offending part:

E6763FDA-6D24-496A-9887-71B11C49191A.jpeg

9930E947-3E12-4D1E-972A-91CED2FA28EE.jpegI suggest you take Stevenola up on his offer, as there’s no substitute for seeing it up close. Assumes you don’t still have one on your dash, of course. Easy to get the cap off (small philips on the passenger side, hinged on the left).

DE7F63C9-7680-4919-AE74-29F7920A65B1.jpeg

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14 hours ago, 0257 said:

Measurement not my strong suit, but here’s what I have with assistance from cheap Chinese micrometer (in mm):

9EA6CC1F-8008-4C45-BD95-A2DA88B6375C.jpeg

Some photos of the offending part:

E6763FDA-6D24-496A-9887-71B11C49191A.jpeg

9930E947-3E12-4D1E-972A-91CED2FA28EE.jpegI suggest you take Stevenola up on his offer, as there’s no substitute for seeing it up close. Assumes you don’t still have one on your dash, of course. Easy to get the cap off (small philips on the passenger side, hinged on the left).

DE7F63C9-7680-4919-AE74-29F7920A65B1.jpeg

Btw, one additional issue is how to affix the three digit panel meter that comes with the Wide-Band 02 sensor kit.  It has no ears or other obvious attachment points, and unless one can figure out how to affix it to the back of the acryllc lense without a glue smear, that’s not an option.  I am dealing with it for the time being by (laboriously) cutting a piece of ABS plastic to the shape of the front recess of the pod, with a hole pretty precisely the size of the panel.  Then glue 3/16” thick basswood blocks to sides of panel meter.  That leaves a 1/16” reveal to the front side of the meter, pretty much the depth of the ABS. Flat black Testors enamel applied to edges of the panel meter and wood where they meet to blackout the juncture point.  I intend to tap some super glue to the front surface of the wood and stick it to the back surface of the ABS, putting the panel meter flush with front surface.  Then the ABS goes behind the acrylic lens, which is already snugged into the opening in the pod.  To secure the whole shebang, I’m hoping its sufficient to just tighten down (really carefully) the screws that fit right behind the opening.  The thickness of the ABS+acrylic against those screws seems to provide just enough pressure from  behind to keep the thing together.  This way, the only “permanent” connection is basswood-to-ABS and the whole thing is more easily disassembled if it requires service or someone comes up with a better solution.  If that approach isn’t stable, will dot some glue onto relevant surfaces as needed to hold it all in place, hopefully a small enough bond surface that I can break it later if needed. 

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3 minutes ago, 0257 said:

 

44542453-EE7A-45F5-BE8A-771E42D5B37C.jpeg

931B91F1-0D49-4F5C-93F9-BEBCC97004F9.jpeg

9460E7CE-56E4-4CA9-9F15-5A06FE9E875E.jpeg

Btw, following some advice I read here on the faq, the panel meter (and only the panel meter) is switched so that I don’t have to watch my AFR all the way to The Vintage if I don’t want.

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