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Interior paint- seeking opinions

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hello everybody,

brian eno's oblique strategy for today is " follow advice"- so i'll ask for some!


i'm about 5 months into a fairly significant overhaul of my '73.  i'm planning to do a much more formal/ comprehensive post about the car in a couple more weeks (not the least of which to brag about Dave Varco, Paul Colby (Autosports Exclusive), and top end performance). But in the meantime, please weigh in on today!


i've removed a whole lot of the dreaded tar and am ready with a can of por-15.

how important is it to you folks to keep the chamonix  bits under the sound absorption and carpet painted chamonix? rather than por-15 black.

paul gave me the leftover (chamonix) paint he put on the outside, so it is possible to use some here. there is some surface rust around the seat belt connecting point below the doors for example. 


my car is a driver (not the original engine), and i'd been of the opinion, "who cares? every bit of this is going to be covered with (black) carpet anyway." but now i'm staring into the abyss, paint brush in hand, knees knocking that once i step off there's no turning back.  exactly the time to draw upon an oblique strategy.


bonus opinions- i was NOT planning to reuse the rigid brown insulation installed over the transmission tunnel and up against the firewall. i have it, but its crumbling. opting instead for a modern butyl mat layer as documented here on the faq. whatcha think?



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If it was a complete, Concours level restoration I would to be correct and for photo documentation purposes. However, it’s not as you said, so personally I don’t think that it matters but if it’s of concern to you then do it.

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For my '73 Tii, after stripping out the tar and repairing the floor; I used the Silver POR15 and POR patch for the seam sealer. Later when it get's painted, it'll be done to match the exterior. That will require scuffing it all up prior to adding the topcoat, which you're supposed to do if it will exposed to UV light at all. That shouldn't be an issue under the floor. My advice would be to topcoat with the Chamonix since you have it already (like Marty said) and apply it as soon as the second POR coat is barely tacky to the touch - then no additional prep is needed. 

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