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Help with distributor- no part number


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I’ve tried searching but without a part number I haven’t had any success in identifying this distributor and therefore what to do with it to re-install to my rebuilt head.

 

I take it this is not a vacuum advance right?

 

it must not have many miles on it because the inside/outside are pretty clean.  The car ran fairly well before taking it out.

I had a IE 292 cam installed, running Weber 38 and header.

 

For installation, is it simply making sure everything is at TDC on the head/block, then installing the cap so that the number 1 cylinder is at the point ?

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Edited by Mjimport
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2 minutes ago, Hans said:

Make sure its TDC with both #1 valves closed. Verify by looking at cam lobes.


yes I’ve checked and double checked: cam has the mark lined up with oil bar, lower belt pulley has 2 red notches lining up with the “pointer”, and the flywheel shows a white mark with a “T” next to it.

 

I have the head torqued down and ready for the distributor install.

 

does it matter where cylinder #1 is positioned, if I can just rotate the cap to line up with the right plug wire?

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On Stock distributors there is an index mark on the lip for reference. See anything like that ? It’s a little notch on the edge where the cap seats.  You have a Haynes manual right? You have to get the timing a little closer than TDC, it’s called “ static timing”

Thats what the reference mark on the dist is for.

35 minutes ago, Mjimport said:

 

does it matter where cylinder #1 is positioned, if I can just rotate the cap to line up with the right plug wire?

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Ok, I think I get it now.  The cap doesn’t rotate independently from the base.  The whole thing rotates in the manifold that’s attached to the head (?). Therefore I need to insert the assembly into the head such that the rotor is pointing at the #1 firing position.

 

is that right?

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Yes - when it is fully seated.  Since the gears are cut in a spiral you will need to index the shaft/rotor a few degrees before “dropping” the distributor so the final result is the rotor lining up with #1 on the cap.

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Got it, thank you all.  Without much fuss I was able to get the distributor mounted and the rotor lines up perfectly with number one plug.

 

I do have a Haynes manual but I think it references vacuum advance which I’m not familiar with.  I’ve also found the Haynes manual to lack the little details that this forum provides.  Especially when dealing with non OEM parts.

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18 hours ago, Mjimport said:

do have a Haynes manual but I think it references vacuum advance which I’m not familiar with.  I’ve also found the Haynes manual to lack the little details that this forum provides.  Especially when dealing with non OEM parts.

There’s no real difference in installation and the Haynes manual is fairly detailed regarding dist installation.  For instance, you are not done. Your timing is now set to fire the spark plug/ignite the fuel air mixture when piston is at TDC. That’s way too far advanced, you now need to rotate the engine backwards till the little steel ball is visible and /or the second pulley notch lines up with the pointer.

Loosen the pinch bolt and rotate dist until rotor once again lines up with the reference mark. You are now “static timed” and should be able to start the engine without those annoying backfires thru the carb. It will run good enough to get a timing light on it .

Why am I telling you all this? It’s all there in a couple of paragraphs😉

Edited by tech71
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Thank you for reinforcing the info!  I haven’t read that far into Haynes because I’m waiting on cooling system parts to arrive anyway, so it will be at least a week before I can attempt to fire.

 

the anticipation is killing me though.

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12 hours ago, tech71 said:

There’s no real difference in installation and the Haynes manual is fairly detailed regarding dist installation.  For instance, you are not done. Your timing is now set to fire the spark plug/ignite the fuel air mixture when piston is at TDC. That’s way too far advanced, you now need to rotate the engine till the little steel ball is visible and /or the second pulley notch lines up with the pointer.

Loosen the pinch bolt and rotate dist until rotor once again lines up with the reference mark. You are now “static timed” and should be able to start the engine without those annoying backfires thru the carb. It will run good enough to get a timing light on it .

Why am I telling you all this? It’s all there in a couple of paragraphs😉

Maybe I'm misreading your post, or suffering Covid brain, but it seems to me one sets "static" at, or close to TDC to get the car running,  then use a timing light to get the ball lined up at the appropriate RPM by moving the distributor. 

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2 hours ago, Hans said:

Maybe I'm misreading your post, or suffering Covid brain, but it seems to me one sets "static" at, or close to TDC to get the car running,  then use a timing light to get the ball lined up at the appropriate RPM by moving the distributor. 

Well, your not misreading my post....  And I am not misreading the procedure in the haynes manual.

Maybe its an unnecessary  step but its worked well for me on lots of engines chronologically starting with air cooled VWs, SBCs Lycomings, Continentals, M10s and some M30s.

TDC is just that, Top Dead Center. Static Timing is best described as "ballpark timing"

Just a dinosaur I guess.

Edited by tech71
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