Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Early Coil resistor?


JFINK907

Recommended Posts

The item in your last photo is the aftermarket oil pressure sensor that Conserv mentioned above.  It probably used to feed an auxiliary gauge in the cabin.

 

9 minutes ago, JFINK907 said:

The coil and condenser was purchased based on availability.

 

If availability is referring to buying bits at the local parts stores, don't count on them having what you need.  You need to buy parts from knowledgeable sellers, such as Blunttech, or Maximillian.  Be ready to give them the number on the side of the distributor.  You've got some funky bits and pieces there, from the looks of it.

 

Setting the points gap is critical.  Dwell meters make that possible, beyond stuffing a match book in the gap.

 

INNOVA 5568.  it takes tools to be able to work on the ignition system.  That's four tools in one.


Tom

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for adding confusion.  (3-28-2024)  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And I would open up the plastic sleeve holding the three wires from your regulator to you alternator as it also includes the thick red positive cable from the battery.  The insulation falls apart and the wires short out causing problems with charging and current drain.

  • Like 3

HBChris

`73 3.0CS Chamonix, `69 2000 NK Atlantik

`70 2800 Polaris, `79 528i Chamonix

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got one more question on some stray wires. Right behind the coil is where my flasher is. So I have the 3 wires that come into it, which 2 of those 3 wires have a second set of wires that literally go to nothing. Any idea where these go? If I had to get id get my hazards since all my blinkers work but my hazards don't.. but thats a guess. Thanks! You guys are great!

20210330_134715.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just as an FYI, ‘02’s have suffered one general electrical fault almost from new: marginal grounds. Battery grounds, engine grounds, alternator grounds, all are critical to proper operation. Many of us have added additional grounds to the instrument clusters, to mitigate jumping instrument needles. My point? Don’t be afraid to clean up ground attachment points. Check those ground wires, e.g., battery, engine block. They do deteriorate with age.

 

I’m going to assume you’ve already removed and cleaned up — or replaced — the 6 fuses in the fuse holder (on top of the left inner fender, near the firewall). Make certain you install fuses of the correct amperage, as shown in the Owner’s handbook, factory service manual, etc. If something electrical doesn’t work on an ‘02 that I own, the first thing I do is pop the cover off the fuse holder and twist the appropriate fuse to (a.) make certain it isn’t blown, and (b.) ensure good contact at both ends!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

  • Like 1

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, JFINK907 said:

 

20210330_134715.jpg

 

One of the brown wires and that black wire look compromised, or is that just dirt?

 

I see that it is an EL13 flasher, but I thought there was some sort of "starter relay switch" over there on early cars that had to do with the ignition system.  Are you sure that's where the turn signal flasher goes?  The one in my '76 is up under the dash on the driver's side.

 

EDITING IN-- this photo shows the coil bypass relay and it also looks like there was a flasher back there too.

post-9115-13667607078244_thumb.jpg

 

That photo was taken from this thread--

 

 

 

I just helped a friend change out his throttle position sensor ($100 part) in his Chevy truck.  He bought it because that's the code that came up.  While he was putting the new one in, I pointed to two wires that had been chewed through, right were they plug into a box on the firewall.  The new sensor did not fix the problem, but repairing those wires did.  They fed the sensor. 

 

All that to say, use your eyeballs to carefully inspect the wires and connections for any chewed on, broken, or melted insulation.  As Chris mentioned, dig out the burned red wire feeding the alternator and make sure it has not melted any of the others. 

 

Keep posting photos.

 

Tom

Edited by '76mintgrün'02

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for adding confusion.  (3-28-2024)  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So here is a picture of what I was told is "the flasher". After I replaced it my car started. Idk if its related at all or if I even have the wrong part, but I just know my old one was making a clicking noise.. I replaced it and my car started after not starting for 10 days of trying to find a problem. If there is a different part you recommend or I have the wrong one please let me know so I can order it.  

 

And you were correct! The brown and black wires were compromised! Good eye! Has anyone replaced single wires or have recommend methods of fixing compromised wires. Ill also be looking up on the page to see if I find anything. 

 

Thanks for all the help!

 

Josh

 

 

20210330_171324.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the photo.  Based on the one I shared in the post above, there is indeed a flasher there.  Seems like a weird place to put it, but I'm sure it makes some sort of sense.

 

I don't consider myself a "wiring guy", but I can usually track down my own electrical problems... eventually.  I am very lucky to have found a car with very few of them.  Hence, I have not had to learn how to fix them, which is why I am not a wiring guy.

 

Since you're new to working on cars, you've got some tool shopping to do.  A nice pair of wire strippers and a wire crimper are very useful tools to own.

 

If the compromised wires are long enough, you can clip them and put new terminals on the ends and simply plug them in.  If they're too short for that, you can cut/strip/splice (crimp) the damage out.  Adding a bunch of new splices is not ideal, but it can get you back on the road.

 

A lot of the previous owners' crimp connections look crappy.  Like they got pinched with wire cutters or pliers.  Wiring is a good place to be fussy, so you know it is fixed when you move onto the next thing.

 

I'll bet there are some good threads in the archives that will discuss crimping new terminals onto wires.  Surely the googlenet discusses it too.  

 

The coil resistor bypass relay appears to have been removed from your car.  Was the coil you took out a blue coil?  It would not have been original, but it would not have needed the resistor, so the relay could have been removed when that coil was installed.

 

You're sorting changes that the previous owners have made.  It's a lot easier to troubleshoot original factory stuff.  You'll get there eventually.  Just keep looking for physical damage to wires and connections and remove/clean/reinstall ground wires while you're at it.  I also like to try to run the wires neatly as I go; working out extra kinks and making them look like they flow, while tucking them neatly aside.

 

Tom  

  • Thanks 1

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for adding confusion.  (3-28-2024)  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

One of the brown wires and that black wire look compromised, or is that just dirt?

 

I see that it is an EL13 flasher, but I thought there was some sort of "starter relay switch" over there on early cars that had to do with the ignition system.  Are you sure that's where the turn signal flasher goes?  The one in my '76 is up under the dash on the driver's side.

 

EDITING IN-- this photo shows the coil bypass relay and it also looks like there was a flasher back there too.

post-9115-13667607078244_thumb.jpg

 

That photo was taken from this thread--

 

 

 

I just helped a friend change out his throttle position sensor ($100 part) in his Chevy truck.  He bought it because that's the code that came up.  While he was putting the new one in, I pointed to two wires that had been chewed through, right were they plug into a box on the firewall.  The new sensor did not fix the problem, but repairing those wires did.  They fed the sensor. 

 

All that to say, use your eyeballs to carefully inspect the wires and connections for any chewed on, broken, or melted insulation.  As Chris mentioned, dig out the burned red wire feeding the alternator and make sure it has not melted any of the others. 

 

Keep posting photos.

 

Tom


That early pic is mine, 11/68 2002.  The square relay is the ballast bypass relay when starting the car to give full voltage, the skinny one is the wiper relay.  Hazard/flasher relay is under the dash.

  • Like 2

HBChris

`73 3.0CS Chamonix, `69 2000 NK Atlantik

`70 2800 Polaris, `79 528i Chamonix

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, HBChris said:


That early pic is mine, 11/68 2002.  The square relay is the ballast bypass relay when starting the car to give full voltage, the skinny one is the wiper relay.  Hazard/flasher relay is under the dash.

So you're saying this is a wiper relay? Correct?

Screenshot_20210330-210842_Chrome.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

correctOmundo

 

 

  • Like 1

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for adding confusion.  (3-28-2024)  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, JFINK907 said:

What is the part in the last picture? That part has a green wire on it that goes to nothing currently.

16171243598111769263840935940795.thumb.j

 

The device pictured appears to be an oil pressure sending unit.   If you have an oil pressure gauge in the cabin, this is presumably the device that feeds the gauge info.  ;)

 

cummins-vdo-sending-unit.png

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t

  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...