ignition switch installation

[esty]

i have changed several switches, all without any drama...this one has me stymied....before parking the car some years ago the switch worked, i drove the car...after sitting for all those years the key would not turn in the cylinder...THE WHEEL IS NOT LOCKED...i recently broke the one and only key and bought a replacement key and switch...easy enough to install as i've done many times....NO, the key will turn the cylinder outside of the barrel but place the ignition and key in the barrel, the key will not turn

 

 

 

 

[tzei]

What happens if you take that "switch" part out from the base (you know, where all wires connects to).

[esty]

1 hour ago, tzei said:

What happens if you take that "switch" part out from the base (you know, where all wires connects to).

you mean remove the wired part from the back...no, i didn't do that and based on this THREAD i didn't try to remove in inner part from the ignition barrel...as pictured,

i don't know how to get that out anyway

 

should i be able to turn the inside part with a screwdriver?...if so, i can't

 

 

 

 

null

[RogerRamJet77]

Yes, you should be able to turn the inside part with a screw driver. 

[2002iii]

The fact that the wheel isn't locked makes me think something inside the housing is gummed up or broken. I think I would try spraying some penetrating oil in the housing and let it soak in overnight, don't forget to put something underneath to catch any drips from getting on the carpet. If that doesn't fix it I think you're going to need to take the housing apart, which involves removing the anti tamper bolts with no bolt heads. You can usually get them out by using a small punch and hammer to break them loose.

 

I always have a spare key made, and the original keys are made of steel, so they don't break easily. Most aftermarket keys are brass and will bend and break pretty easily.

[RogerRamJet77]

If the electrical switch is still attached, I would remove it. 

[Mike Self]

Is it possible that part of the original roll pin that retains the lock cylinder assembly is still resident in the housing?  I've had lock cylinders in and out several times without any drama, and without having to remove the electrical portion of the assembly.  

 

Since you have the old lock out and you know it works, it would be a simple matter for a locksmith to make a new key from the broken pieces, and have the lock cylinder there to make sure it worked.

 

One more thought:  in order for the lock cylinder assembly to be inserted fully and rotate properly, the electrical part's position has to match the mechanical portion--i.e. if the key is in the "ignition on" position, the rotating switch needs to be in the same position.  So...you might try inserting the switch as far as it will go (disconnect the battery first) and then turning the key from one position (off & locked, accessory, ign on, start) and see if it then mates up properly with the electrical switch.  

 

mike

 

 

[2002iii]

31 minutes ago, rockyford77 said:

If the electrical switch is still attached, I would remove it. 

The electrical switch is made from very brittle old plastic( I think its bakelite), so be careful when removing it. I've had 2 old electrical ignition switches break on me, I took apart both to inspect and see if they could be repaired. Both broke the same plastic part inside that turns with the key, the only way to fix the problem would be to have new plastic pieces 3d printed or molded out of better plastic.

 

Also new electrical ignition switches are usually about $275 due to the fact they are also used on Ferrari's and are only made by one company.

[TobyB]

Huf is still around, and makes keys and keysets for all sorts of things...

 

t

yeah, Esty, in your purple shoes, I'd pull the battery, remove the electrical

part of the switch, make sure IT rotates, and see what's up inside the barrel.

 

The bolt withdrawal mechanism can jam the intermediate cylinder, even tho 

the bolt's withdrawn.  I like Mike's idea of a broken off bit of roll pin...

[ray_]

I just had the electrical switch out of (one of) my '73('s). The receiving end of your electrical switch looks much different than mine.

 

Did you compare it to the original?

 

GL,

[esty]

when we moved the car from storage to it's current resting spot, last summer, i unlocked the wheel because we had to pull it...it was pulled onto full body ramps with the wheel left unlocked...i recently tried turning the key...just because i was in the car and found it would not turn...the key switch only goes all the way in the barrel or seats in one position so i'm confident that it's inserted properly 

 

the key would not turn before i removed the old cylinder, it was original as far as i know...the hole the roll pin was in is clear, i ran a drill bit through it after i removed it....i'll soak it overnight, if that doesn't do anything i'll try to remove the electrical plug from the back of the switch without breaking it

[esty]

i took the wired plug off the back of the ignition barrel...tried turning it with a screwdriver and got some resistance...i sprayed some lube in it tried again, it turned back and forth a couple of times and hung again with a the end of an inner spring sticking out one of the holes the spring loaded bearing stops in...looks like i need a new plug...

 

does anyone have the rear wire plug for the ignition switch 

 

 

Ray, the pic is from the front, it's not a picture of the wire switch on the back side....

 

 

Edited March 28, 2021 by esty

[esty]

i just fastened the wire plug back to the back of the switch and what i said above is not correct...the key turns the switch and springs back from the START position, without that little spring there are no clicks or stops between the first positions...but it appears the switch will work and not stay in the start position when starting.....HOPEFULLY

 

i'd still like to find a replacement plug

[2002iii]

Yeah that's the spring that holds the detent ball in the electrical ignition switch. Without it the switch won't lock into any of the switch positions and can move and cause short circuiting and smoke, I know from experience.

 

Here is a used one on Ebay.

Edited March 28, 2021 by 2002iii

[John76]

Here's what the innards look like.

You might be able to find a suitable ball spring if you can't salvage yours.