Best way to cut a shorty rear bumper for the light cutouts?

[jrhone]

Long story short....got a new bumper coming to replace mine.  It should have had the light cutouts for the euro license plate lights like I ordered, but it doesn’t.  Should I cut the lights out myself and if so how? Or should I wait for them to send me another one with the light cutouts.  I don’t have tons of tools...so can it be done with a Dremel?  And when I say can it be done....I mean can it be done so the end result looks factory.  I would rather not screw up a brand new bumper.

[halboyles]

I have done it with a Dremel but if they owe you one I would definitely have them ship the correct version.

[jrhone]

I agree.  The only reason I am thinking about it is the time factor.  I waited 6 weeks for this one.  Wait another 6 for the correct one?  I also would move the lights slightly closer to center since it was  designed for a wider euro plate.

Edited February 24, 2021 by jrhone

[kbmb02]

Is it a stainless steel bumper? If so, that won't be fun (s/s beats up on bits, blades, etc). -KB

[jrhone]

Yes.  Stainless.  

[Mike Self]

You could probably cut the openings with a Dremel and (several) heavy duty cutoff wheels (not emery wheels, but the composite ones).  But as others have said, the vendor screwed up and owes you the proper part.  You might see if someone on the board needs the one you have, and just order a second one from the vendor.  

 

If it were a chrome original one, I know you could sell it in a heartbeat, as they've been NLA for a number of years, both the plain and the rubber trim styles.

 

mike

[jrhone]

The vendor has been cool about it and will make it right.  I was just asking and seeing if there was an easy option for all involved.  

[calw]

Stainless, ewwwww...  Not an appearance or originality statement, but for how hard it is to work.  But, if you do manage to make the holes, there's no danger of irreparable damage to the finish- marks will polish out- again with sweat and toil. 

 

I just finished working with stainless on two different projects-  polishing the rocker trim for my car, and a simple drilling and tapping effort for 3 quarter inch diameter holes on a flat piece of stainless about 3/8" thick.   Both reminded of how hard stainless steel is.  The 3 tapped holes consumed 4 high speed steel drill bits and 4 quality USA taps.  Just wore them out....  The material was plain old 304 stainless from China and had hard and soft spots throughout.

 

I'd wait for a new part, but thorough masking of the not-to-be-damaged areas, a case of Dremel composite wheels, eye protection, a light touch and a free Saturday morning will get you through it.  Remember, too much heat will discolor areas near the cut in stainless.

[ray_]

Mine were cut freehand (with a rotary grinder) into a stock bumper, spaced for a U.S. plate.

 

Ancient pic attached ;-)

 

[jimk]

On 2/24/2021 at 8:33 AM, calw said:

Both reminded of how hard stainless steel is.

304SS work hardens.  Have to cut fast or the surface under the tool gets work hardened.

[calw]

The problem that I had with my drilling and tapping was inconsistency- there were hard and soft spots throughout.  Some of the hard spots seemed like they were going to snap a drill bit.  It was in a piece of stainless from "over there"