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ENGINE WIRING MY 1976 ...Where do these wires go please?


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End stages of re-installing my motor. While the engine was out, I used cloth harness tape to re-wrap the wiring and I failed to properly document where everything went. Tried looking at what diagrams I could find and having a hard time. Intend to pass visual for CA smog (yes, I know...) I've attached pictures and made a couple of drawings.

 

I am referring to the connectors by letter on drawing B. As you can see, there is a disconnected wire "X" and I don't know if it was like that when the car was running (I bought it running with blown head gasket) or if I pulled it by mistake. I need to know where those lettered connectors go please.

 

On drawing A, The harness that crosses from the fender to the engine ended up with three branches:

One has two wires on one connector and a heavy red and those go to the alternator

Another has two wires on one connector that connect to the starter

The last one is a single wire and that is circled with a question mark...(ok, let's call that the"?" wire  :))   That's the one I don't know

 

Also on drawing A, I show a heavy red cable going from the harness to the alternator and then another daisy-chained from there to the starter. I found great pics of someone's motor that showed this area and it did not have that cable from alternator to starter. Is this a possible "repair" or work-around? This car seems to be very complete as I haven't noticed anything "not there" (except for a couple of parts I errrrr,,,, "misplaced"  lol

 

 

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First off your going to have to jump through a lot of hoops to get this car smogged.

 

On the 1976 cars I'm pretty sure all the blue covered harness goes to smog related parts.

 

Picture 6 the brown wire looks to be for a temperature sensor either on the water neck or under the intake manifold. 

 

Do you have the three golden colored solenoids on the firewall hooked up?

 

Look here for pictures of all the stuff you need.

 

Those white wires look to be added on or replaced factory wires, so it's hard to say.

 

Other observations:

Wiring repairs in 5th picture down will not pass a visual smog inspection and vacuum hoses missing to round vacuum control thing.

 

Red EGR hose needs hose clamps.

 

Missing discharge hose on air pump valve.

 

Hope this helps, good luck!

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Tip on the brown/*** wires in engine bay:

 

Brown/green = Oil Pressure  Switch

Brown/white = Coolant Temperature Sensor (on water divider)

Brown/black = Coolant Temperature SWITCH (underneath intake manifold)

Brown = Ground

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3 hours ago, MBar said:

Intend to pass visual for CA smog (yes, I know...) I've attached pictures and made a couple of drawings.

 

Have you considered moving instead? Or buying a 75? Might be easier.

Sorry

Edited by tech71
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41 minutes ago, tech71 said:

Have you considered moving instead? Or buying a 75? Might be easier.

Sorry

I have other cars -- all pre-76 due to smog BS.. I got a killer price and just had to buy this one... have always hated the smog check BS on old cars that are hardly driven. I've heard about Montana and Vermont....and I have a potential address to use in Arizona but I think I can get it to pass here... I will post when I do. Otherwise....uuuuugh...

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3 hours ago, John76 said:

Yikes...looks like the PO did a lot of cutting and pasting of weird colored wires.

Here a a few of my sketches that may help. I too can't look at the factory wiring diagram without getting a headache.

 

Blue Wiring Harness.jpg

BMW 2002 Emission Controls 76 CA.jpg

Fuse #12.jpg

Smog Stuff.jpg

Speed Relay.jpg

 

3 hours ago, John76 said:

Yikes...looks like the PO did a lot of cutting and pasting of weird colored wires.

Here a a few of my sketches that may help. I too can't look at the factory wiring diagram without getting a headache.

 

Blue Wiring Harness.jpg

BMW 2002 Emission Controls 76 CA.jpg

Fuse #12.jpg

Smog Stuff.jpg

Speed Relay.jpg

Very Helpful....gonna use the heck out of this Thanks!!

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3 hours ago, 2002iii said:

First off your going to have to jump through a lot of hoops to get this car smogged.

 

On the 1976 cars I'm pretty sure all the blue covered harness goes to smog related parts.

 

Picture 6 the brown wire looks to be for a temperature sensor either on the water neck or under the intake manifold. 

 

Do you have the three golden colored solenoids on the firewall hooked up?

 

Look here for pictures of all the stuff you need.

 

Those white wires look to be added on or replaced factory wires, so it's hard to say.

 

Other observations:

Wiring repairs in 5th picture down will not pass a visual smog inspection and vacuum hoses missing to round vacuum control thing.

 

Red EGR hose needs hose clamps.

 

Missing discharge hose on air pump valve.

 

Hope this helps, good luck!

Yes, I have a few things to still hook up... the solenoids and relays and colored vacuum lines are all present and going on, even the

discharge hose (useless thing just dumps straight down. Not saying it's all working but if I can pass the visual, I think the "friendly" smog guy will let her through... thank you for the link..it helps :)

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2 hours ago, tech71 said:

Probably pointless huh?

 

Yeah, probably pointless.

The smog station scans the bar-code on your registration renewal form, so it knows the model year, license plate and VIN.

The visual inspection is fairly subjective, if everything is installed and hooked up correctly. They do not test the functionality of the EGR system, fuel cap (should hold vacuum), or evaporative controls. You know how hard it is to see the bb on the flywheel, even when you know where to look. The smog guys generally just go with what the CA spec is (25 deg. BTDC @ 2800 rpm) and notes that value on the receipt.  Hint: Smog guys do not like to look stuff up in the book, so be present to point stuff out to them.

Some guys are downright picky. I failed once because the flex hose to the thermostatic valve (on the snorkel) was missing. 

I got a warning for a Fasten Seat Belt message that did not display (bad relay), and a written warning for a missing Timing Sticker on bulkhead. I told the guy the sticker crinkled-up and fell off during the first 10 years of ownership.

Emissions wise, no problem if you have good spark, fresh gas, and no vacuum leaks...or fuel leaks.

Finally, keep a good sense of humor.....you need one to drive a '76 in California!

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3 hours ago, tech71 said:

My car was manufactured Sept 1975 yet is listed as a 1976, were I in CA I would try to pass it off as a 75 based on date of manufacture. Probably pointless huh?


Probably, because VIN’s from 2370001 (manuals) and 2390001 (automatics) were designated by the factory as U.S. 1976 models. But not absolutely, as, at least anecdotally, DMV personnel haven’t always looked to the authoritative guidance...

 

I’d guess that many (most?) DMV employees, however, recognize that model years do not generally equate to calendar years. My wife’s 2012 model VW Eos was ordered in November 2010 (at which time we expected a 2011 model), manufactured in January 2011, and delivered in March 2011... 🙄

 

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

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Taken from wikipedia, so don't blame me for inaccuracies.

 

The new model year typically begins in August to September of the preceding calendar year, though can be as early as February, such being the case for the fourth generation 2022 Acura MDX, which started production in January 2021. This was partly due to the advertising of a new model being coordinated with the launch of the new television season in late September, because of the heavy dependence between television to offer products from automakers to advertise, and the car companies to launch their new models at a high-profile time of year.[1] Imported cars use the model year convention in the U.S. and Canada, even when this system is not used for the same cars when sold in other countries.

 

3 hours ago, John76 said:

 

Yeah, probably pointless.

The smog station scans the bar-code on your registration renewal form, so it knows the model year, license plate and VIN.

The visual inspection is fairly subjective, if everything is installed and hooked up correctly. They do not test the functionality of the EGR system, fuel cap (should hold vacuum), or evaporative controls. You know how hard it is to see the bb on the flywheel, even when you know where to look. The smog guys generally just go with what the CA spec is (25 deg. BTDC @ 2800 rpm) and notes that value on the receipt.  Hint: Smog guys do not like to look stuff up in the book, so be present to point stuff out to them.

Some guys are downright picky. I failed once because the flex hose to the thermostatic valve (on the snorkel) was missing. 

I got a warning for a Fasten Seat Belt message that did not display (bad relay), and a written warning for a missing Timing Sticker on bulkhead. I told the guy the sticker crinkled-up and fell off during the first 10 years of ownership.

Emissions wise, no problem if you have good spark, fresh gas, and no vacuum leaks...or fuel leaks.

Finally, keep a good sense of humor.....you need one to drive a '76 in California!

They are supposed to check the EGR for functionality with a hand vacuum pump and the gas cap and evap system. There is also a visual smoke test.They should be able to check the timing on the front timing cover. The easier you make it for the smog technician the nicer they will usually be to you.

 

The flex hose on the thermostatic air cleaner is necessary for it to work properly, so that was correct.

 

The fasten seat belt message has nothing to do with emissions.

 

The timing sticker is technically not required but makes it a lot easier then having to look it up and most people don't want to risk their license on getting it wrong.

 

To pass the emissions test your going to need to have your carburetor tuned pretty well.

 

Most people with 1976 2002s in California swap the motor for something newer like an m20 or m42, it's a lot easier to pass smog with fuel injection and a catalytic converter.

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