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Last weekend I started the girlfriend relationship killer.

This puppy sat in girlfriend's garage for 7 years due to complete front suspension rubber disintegration.

Pulled seats, cards and all except dash & AC last weekend.

Dropping engine and tranny soon - yes it's all coming out.

Need some recommendations on storage of components like AC parts, brake MC, slaves and booster as they look good and will reuse what I can.

All system's hoses, tubing will be replaced. New replacement steering and suspension obtained.

Will be stripping interior asphalt coating as well as undercarriage so some parts will sit for a bit.

A compression test this weekend will determine level of engine rebuild as well as emptying and pulling gas tank.

Rust-wise minimal, typical floor pedal area, small bit rear driver side window - so far....

Any tips for my en devour appreciated!



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Ziploc bags labeled with a sharpie for all hardware. Rubbermaid tote for each major system, front suspension, rear, driveline, etc. take pictures of everything before you take it apart. Replace the slave, way easier now and not expensive. 

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Yep, Bag & tagging everything with zip locks as I frequent watching restorations on the Motor Trend channel.  Girlfriend is a recent preschool retired teacher so she has about 20 plastic bins that I'm storing each different system's parts. Luckily, I have my first parents home that is not rented out and I have a room for all seats, trim, window glass, hood and trunk storage.  Out of site, out of mind.  I should say shed as it's tin lined and like Swiss cheese, but the roof is great and dry.  I only have a foot clearance on the rear wall and another foot on the door so it's tight. Good point on the video, I'm doing pics and diagrams, but when it comes to engine, tranny & differential pull and reassembly, I'll definitely resort to some video.  Due to the extend of this, I'll be sending out any engine, tranny, differential rebuilds to a shop.  I'm in the New Orleans metro area, so if anyone knows of a reputable shop, please recommend.  I've just started lookin and will soon contact our local chapter for help.

Some mice made a nice dwelling under the hood in the passenger quarter panel space and chewed the ignition/wiper pump harness.  I'll be evaluating how much wire I will replace - from past experience, wiring under the dash can get quite scary!

Thanks everyone for the tips!

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Master cylinder, calipers and other hydraulic bits--clean as much of the brake fluid out of 'em as you can, otherwise they'll rust as they sit in an opened system.  


I did a couple of columns on replacing front suspension bushings, utilizing plastic plumbing pipe, all thread and thick washers as removal/installation tools.  PM me if you'd like a copy.


And keep the mice away from your project.  They'll make things much harder to do if they get loose--particularly into the seats.  


BTW, if your floors aren't rusty, there's no real reason to remove the tar on the footwell floors.  That's a messy, nasty job and only necessary if you know the floors are badly rusted underneath.   Cut out a small section near one of the plugs (lowest portion of the floor).  If you don't find rust there, the rest of the floor is probably OK


cheers and happy tinkering



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I'm going to have to take the unpopular route and disagree  with Mike. I think if you strip your 50 year old car down to the floor boards you should always strip the tar out and fix anything that needs it  reseal the plugs and por 15 the s#it out of them. The floors don't always start rusting at the plugs the right side of the tranny tunnel/floor area is a quite common rust spot (probably a leaky heater core or heater gasket) but like Schrodinger's cat the only way your going to know for sure is to look. Yes it's a messy job and a bit of work but anyway you look at it it's less work now than having to strip the interior later to do the job.


PS the dry ice method IMO is the least messy. 

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^ for those not skilled enough to make it themselves, they're sold for relatively cheap to make your life easier.  

 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-2-0-Amp-Variable-Speed-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-BD200MTB/203124595?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PortablePower_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PortablePower_PLA-71700000034127218-58700003933021540-92700060764889375&gclid=Cj0KCQiApsiBBhCKARIsAN8o_4jJUlaBzf47c0OnMMnjpZEpePQIV-3LTvxtsWFttA1WD6YAjPr5hV8aArtgEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


I'm with Marty on stripping everything down.  If you're taking it that far, expose all you can to make sure nothing is hiding.  A little extra effort now to know that it is solid and nothing's harboring.  Not to mention, modern sound deadening is much better when you go to put everything back together.   


Also for parts storage tips - feed all bolts, nuts screws back into areas they're removed from or tape/zip tie baggies of hardware to their associated components.  Easier to find when reassembling later on.  But yes, as mentioned above - label, categorize and stay organized.  The more OCD you are about storage, the easier your life will be weeks, months, years later when you pull them back out again.  


Good luck and post updates! 

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2 hours ago, Get2theBimmah said:


That tool cuts with a side to side motion.  The one in my video is an impact chisel/hammer that shatters the tar.  Mine is a cheap one.  Probably similar to this--




It does take a decent size air compressor to run them though.



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