Cylinder valve head replacement prep?

[Mjimport]

I’m looking forward to installing an IE head soon but am wondering if there is something I should check prior to pulling off the timing chain and current head?

I haven’t found anything yet through much searching.

thanks!

 

also, I’m assuming IE provides a head with a machine-matched timing chain cover?

Edited February 9, 2021 by Mjimport

[Hans]

1 hour ago, Mjimport said:

I’m looking forward to installing an IE head soon but am wondering if there is something I should check prior to pulling off the timing chain and current head?

I haven’t found anything yet through much searching.

thanks!

 

also, I’m assuming IE provides a head with a machine-matched timing chain cover?

You might want to ask IE. Cutting a new one is virtually impossible.

[TobyB]

Yes- do a leakdown test, and see where you're leaking.

 

If the rings are leaking a lot, might be time to do a full overhaul...

 

As to IE, assume nothing and be not surprised.

 

t

fanboi

[Mjimport]

Ok, I have a few questions about the valve head from Ireland Engineering (I will speak with them, but of course they'll have some bias).  I have been searching like crazy for answers, but never find a firm conclusion, or one for my application...

 

Thank you in advance!

 

Head Type - my head says "E12", however their site lists E21, 121, 1.8.  Which one is E12?

Valve size - is +1mm  size increase appropriate?  I'm using Weber38 and fairly open exhaust and going with 292 cam in the head, however mostly stock system.

Double sprocket - my current setup has this so no question

What are Rocker Locks?  and do I need/want them?

Valve retainers Chromoly or Titanium - Is it safe to assume with mild power upgrade the Chromoly is more than suitable?

Valve Springs - Same as above, looks like the HD Single is no upcharge

 

[tech71]

Probably out of E12 heads, its a popular one. You may be able to send them your head. Call them.

Valve size: dont see need for size increase

Rocker locks: you dont need them.

Retainers: Chromoly will be fine.

Valve springs: HD will be fine for your application.

You can always find a machine shop to refresh your current head, if you are not refreshing your cylinders that may be a wise choice.

 

 

[Mjimport]

3 hours ago, tech71 said:

Probably out of E12 heads, its a popular one. You may be able to send them your head. Call them.

Valve size: dont see need for size increase

Rocker locks: you dont need them.

Retainers: Chromoly will be fine.

Valve springs: HD will be fine for your application.

You can always find a machine shop to refresh your current head, if you are not refreshing your cylinders that may be a wise choice.

 

 

Thanks!  that confirms my assumptions.  One factor for me is the ease of process - if I can unbolt my current head and install a refresh with 292 cam installed, I'm willing to pay a few bucks for that.  I just don't have the time (or the special tools) to completely tear down a head.  I like wrenching on the car, but I also want to drive it this summer before snow falls again.

[TobyB]

If you pull the head off and hose off most of the oil,

ANY machinist that you'd want working on it will be able

and happy to do the dis-reassembly work.  

 

You need to know what pistons are in there.  A $12 usb camera

from ePay will tell you.  If they are flattops, you can use any head

except the 1.8. If they have domes, you need an E12 head to match the domes.

 

I would not 'upgrade' anything on a head that'll spin to 6500.  A 292 cam has 

ever- so- gentle ramps.  If you think you might want to go over that (because you have

the breathing to do so) then going to a slightly stiffer spring is good insurance.

 

t

would take it to someone locally.

[Mjimport]

5 hours ago, TobyB said:

If you pull the head off and hose off most of the oil,

ANY machinist that you'd want working on it will be able

and happy to do the dis-reassembly work.  

 

You need to know what pistons are in there.  A $12 usb camera

from ePay will tell you.  If they are flattops, you can use any head

except the 1.8. If they have domes, you need an E12 head to match the domes.

 

I would not 'upgrade' anything on a head that'll spin to 6500.  A 292 cam has 

ever- so- gentle ramps.  If you think you might want to go over that (because you have

the breathing to do so) then going to a slightly stiffer spring is good insurance.

 

t

would take it to someone locally.

Thank you Toby, 

This is just for street use, and maybe "parade" laps if the opportunity should arise, so I don't "need" strength upgrades.

I have already pulled a bunch of stuff off the motor, so right now the only thing left is to remove the sprocket and remove head bolts and I'll be looking at pistons.  

I would be much farther along if it weren't 15 degrees in my garage 

[Hans]

Just make sure they do front cover with head.

[TobyB]

Quote

strength upgrades.

 

It's kind of about who you are- I put rev limiters on my cars, because

I know myself and how I drive.  I find it satisfying and useful

to flat- shift from time to time, and a rev limiter makes that safe.

 

If you don't see regular excursions to 6500 and beyond, and know that

you'll honor that, stock valve springs are fine.  

If you love a good burnout and the howl of an M10 on song,

the extra wear and friction of heavy- duty springs (it's not much heavy duty,

and thus, not much wear on a non- daily- driven car)

are worth it for you to wind to 7500 when you want to.  It's fuuuuunnnnnn.  

C'mon, all the boy racers are doin' it.  First one's free!

 

And statistically, the chances of driving on the track a few times and then

NOT signing up for more lapping days are pretty low.

 

t

Oh, just try it.  All you've got to lose is your pocketbook, right?