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Out with the old


tech71

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My ancient, rusty, rodenty metal pole barn came down today.

Now all I can think about is my future shop building with power, heat, welding station, space for drill press, belt sander, dry storage, IMG_2438.JPGa LIFT and yes, maybe even space for a basic paint booth.

And it will be mine, all mine Bwa Ha Ha!

No more groveling to get the wife to park outside so I can free up enough space to pull engines, No more crappy creepers and jack stands!

Time to start getting some quotes.

That Kubota excavator is amazing as is the operator.  Guy never got out cept to pee, stripped the metal from the lumber and made 2 neat piles in a matter of hours.

IMG_2429.JPG

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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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Have you considered an HGTV show?  The Tajma Garage....

 

Be sure to run plenty of power out there--110 and 220--and that may require more electric service at your house...

 

mike

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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All I've got is make sure to put a good vapor barrier down under your concrete, get the floor coated before you put stuff in there, and make sure you have lots of good and proper drainage around your shop. I'm running into all these issues with my shop right now. Also splurge on good standing seam roofing, not the crappy pole barn stuff. It only lasts about 10-15 years before the screw gaskets start to fail and rot the fastener then leak. That being said, mine's~30 years old and I'm inheriting all the problems now lol. Good luck! 

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-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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48 minutes ago, roadhog0 said:

Also splurge on good standing seam roofing, not the crappy pole barn stuff. It only lasts about 10-15 years before the screw gaskets start to fail and rot the fastener then leak.

 

Good advice Nathan.

 

I solved that problem last week!  I got tired of it dripping on my tools.

 

IMG_7315.JPG

 

IMG_7317.JPG

 

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38 minutes ago, stephers said:

Make your new shop as big as you possibly can because whatever size you think will work now, later, you will wish you had more room

 

Thanks, Rick

Looks like a 42x30 footprint is the max my budget, location limits and wife’s tolerance level will allow.

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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2 hours ago, Mike Self said:

Be sure to run plenty of power out there--110 and 220--and that may require more electric service at your house...

Yea, along with standard 110 lay out and lighting I need at least 5 220 outlets.
Compressor, lift, mini split heat pump, welder and a spare just because.

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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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I know this is a bit over the top, but worth it. Also consider some rigid foam insulation to install under the concrete, makes for a little extra warmth. If I get to it maybe some stem walls and 14 to 16 ft ceilings to allow for some post addition under the radar so you don't get dinged in sq/ft for the building permits and the so much dreaded property taxes. Hopefully, the lumber $$$ will drop as the producers are raking us over the coals with their Covid price gouging. Even though mostly automated, they laid off workers and got behind in inventory/production. OSB used to be in the low teens for a sheet, now the 1/2" is running mid $20s to $30, same with cdx plywood. 2x4s and 2x6 are running at least 150% or a bit more than they used to.  For the honey, maybe add some rose bushes next to it. ?

Cheers and good luck with the project!!

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Here's a few ideas I've used in my shop, if you finish the wall try putting osb on the lower 4 feet and then sheet rock the rest of the way to the ceiling, to prevent knocking holes in the lower wall when moving engines and other heavy stuff, for paint I love using gloss white enamel porch and floor paint, oil wipes right off and it's hard to stain or scratch. IMHO do your wiring and air lines in conduit on top of the wall so you can change/repair it with out having to rip open the walls, I also like to use quad outlets with one side wired to one leg and the other plug wired to a second leg so you have 2 high draw outlets in the same box, and never wire your lighting on the same circuit as the wall plugs so if you blow a breaker you can at least find the circuit box. Here in the PNW north area insulation is probably a waste of money other hotter and colder areas you'll need it but I've been able to scrounge both window A/C units and electric baseboard heaters for free and the days I need to run either it would be for ever to spend the money that insulation costs     

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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I'm putting up a metal(steel) building similar to this. No lumber, wiring is routed in EMT conduit. Insulation will be installed prior to the steel skin. Some sort of wooden sheathing along the lower walls would be nice.

1DFA35FD-8AF8-4593-B919-A7334D3D7783.jpeg

Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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