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Valve cover gasket


jackiesilva

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Hi -

 

I'm replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 1975 '02 and I've found a few on pelicanparts ranging from $7.25 - $20. The most expensive was the $20 BMW gasket. The Victor Reinz and MTC gaskets were around $10. Any reason to pick one over the other? Is the genuine BMW gasket preferred?

 

Thanks,

J

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Before installing, make sure your valve cover is nice and flat, and that a PO hasn't overtightened the nuts and warped it.  Place it on a piece of plate glass and see if you can slip a thin feeler gauge under the the edge.  If badly warped, you may have to have it milled, or you can try lapping it on a sheet of glass with emery cloth taped or glued down.

 

When you install the nuts, tighten like you would a cylinder head:  start with the two in the middle, then cris-cross, working towards the front and back.  Do the center one (over the water pump) last.

 

mike

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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1 hour ago, Mike Self said:

Before installing, make sure your valve cover is nice and flat, and that a PO hasn't overtightened the nuts and warped it.  Place it on a piece of plate glass and see if you can slip a thin feeler gauge under the the edge.  If badly warped, you may have to have it milled, or you can try lapping it on a sheet of glass with emery cloth taped or glued down.

 

When you install the nuts, tighten like you would a cylinder head:  start with the two in the middle, then cris-cross, working towards the front and back.  Do the center one (over the water pump) last.

 

mike

I don't think I've ever seen or heard of a warped m10 valve cover, is it that common?

35 minutes ago, jackiesilva said:

Also, I've seen the m10 with valve cover acorn nuts, but mine came with the non-capped type. Do I need to replace them with the acorn?

I believe they were acorn shaped so the stud hit the top of the inside of the nut making it harder to over tighten them. 

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14 minutes ago, 2002iii said:

I believe they were acorn shaped so the stud hit the top of the inside of the nut making it harder to over tighten them. 

 

I don't believe that.  

 

 

@flagoworld  pointed out that the top of the acorn nut is a cap, which can be pushed off.

(I thought they were cut from one piece).

 

 

My car came with the original shoulderless acorn nuts.

 

057.thumb.JPG.3fd26fcc98e2f93e3e4747460b0bd6be.JPG

 

These are from a Volvo, of the same era.  I bought them at the wrecking yard.  I like the flange at the base.

 

054.thumb.JPG.572f328f6e2b34f17b9bffc43fd7f3d3.JPG

 

I also like that the little nub-tip on top guides the wrench into place.  

It also protects the threads and keeps the stud from snagging the rag, when you're cleaning the valve cover.

 

 

Edited by '76mintgrün'02

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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Well, I've never seen brass ones used on a valve cover.  Chrome plated brass, or shiny yellow ones?  

 

Could you share a photo?

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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Both my cars have their original acorn valve cover nuts, and they're cad plated steel.  I tried some stainless steel acorn nuts, but the dome was too shallow and they couldn't be fully tightened.  And there are copper washers that go under the nuts, IIRC that should seal the joint to prevent oil leakage.

 

And yes, it's possible to warp an M10 valve cover by either overtightening or doing the end fasteners first.  

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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My BMW cap nuts don't look like any those above.  Mine are taller/slimmer, with a tapered transition between the hex and the round. And Mike, the new BMW ones are sadly no longer chromed.

See pic - the 'wrong' front one is one from my original 76' chromed steel set, and the others are the new ones from BMW (same part #).

 

Tom

Valvecover_BMW-Capnuts.jpg

Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

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1 hour ago, jackiesilva said:

Mine are not the acorn type at all and it sounds like I should replace them.

Your shoulder nuts should work fine mechanically. But if aesthetics or originality matter to you, you can replace them with cap nuts . Either the kind from the hardware store with a washer or the BMW ones.

 

Get the best valve cover gasket you can get. More than just sealing, you’ll be taking the cover off & on when adjusting valves, so a durable one aids reuse.

Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

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