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Rear Brakes not bleeding


Doug DiPaola

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Nothing wrong with replacing the 40 year old metal hydraulic lines along with the flex hoses.  You can get metric Nickel-Copper replacement lines from many auto part dealers, in various lengths.  These are easy to bend into an exact match for the original steel lines, and they should last forever. 

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3 hours ago, borgpj said:

Nothing wrong with replacing the 40 year old metal hydraulic lines along with the flex hoses.  You can get metric Nickel-Copper replacement lines from many auto part dealers, in various lengths.  These are easy to bend into an exact match for the original steel lines, and they should last forever. 

Borgpj, When I scrape the whitish crud off the metal piping, the metal underneath is kinda’ a light yellowish metal, kinda’ brassy looking. Doesn’t look like steel. I picked up a Scwaben tube bending tool on clearance for $20. It came in very handy for bending new rear most metal line. When buying replacement metal line for long run from master cylinder back to rear junction; how does that come? In a coil? And, do you need to flare the ends or is it pre flared? Thanks.

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10 hours ago, 2002iii said:

Not a bad idea with the oscillating tool. I had similar issues with my rear lines. after soaking in PB Blaster and lots of struggling and cursing like a sailor, I finally cut of the rubber hose and put a long socket over the whole metal fitting and a wrench on the metal line side wedged against something to stop it from twisting. That finally worked, if I had to do it again I'd start with the way I ended up doing it. On the front lines I was not so lucky and stripped one of the metal line nuts from the caliper to the flex line, had to find a replacement.

With the amazing improvised “ Acme Oscillating Impact Vibrator 2021” I was able to get the flex line off but that threaded nut at end of pipe( you called it a “ line nut “ -thanks for that ID ) is still seized to pipe. I would still be thread on new flex line but I am still trying to free up that line nut. I wrapped it  in a rag last night and soaked with PB Blaster. Will keep after trying to vibrate it loose. I don’t want to damage the pipe.  When I was removing the line nuts at the wheel cylinder I was not so patient. Didn’t strip the nut but twisted/crimped the pipe. That pipe was easy to find. Got a deal on a Schwaben pipe bending tool, $20, so that was easy to replace.

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17 hours ago, Jimmy said:

For what it's worth, when I replaced all my flex lines, calipers and wheel cylinders, enough air got into the system that I was unable to get any fluid to emerge from the rears until I partially bled the fronts. So I started at the front and then went to the rear and did the "classic" flush/bleed, ending with the fronts again.

Thanks Jimmy. I rebuilt my calipers; I’m going to a separate post on that, but when no fluid came out rear wheel cylinders I got paranoid I had a leak somewhere. Sadly, there was a puddle of fluid under front pass side caliper. I thought I had a messed up rebuild; either a bad piston or bad seal. Resigned to taking it all apart again, I started removing it then I got the brilliant idea of checking the bleeder screws. All three were loose. Tightened, no leak. Upside was I confirmed master was working.

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Wile e coyote would definitely buy your Acme tool lol. I wish you luck getting that line nut loose. Worst case scenario you can always get these. If the PB Blaster doesn't break it free you could try some CRC freeze off or similar. Don't use a torch since both brake fluid and PB Blaster are flammable.

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17 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Love the multi tool trick, I'll put that to use for sure.

Thanks Son O’ Marty. I was also thinking same result might be obtained with one of those vibratory  buzzing engraving tools. I wanted to try mine but couldn’t find it. The tool I made worked to get the flex hose off, but the line nut on metal pipe is still seized; not a big deal but Ive got a strip of rag wrapped around each one soaked in  BPBlaster. I’m going to try the engraver to free them up.

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I now consider these an essential tool for loosening brake lines.  The little four inch version is a wonderful tool.

 

PRESSURE PLIERS Costa Rica | Capris, MÁS que solo herramientas

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     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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3 minutes ago, 2002iii said:

Wile e coyote would definitely buy your Acme tool lol. I wish you luck getting that line nut loose. Worst case scenario you can always get these. If the PB Blaster doesn't break it free you could try some CRC freeze off or similar. Don't use a torch since both brake fluid and PB Blaster are flammable.

Thanks for the reference to replacement set. I was wondering how they would ship the long piece; multiple joints. Hopefully new flex lines that are coming soon will complete the job and won’t have to replace for piping. HAHA. I did try the torch and got a scare when things lit up a bit. I have never tried the CRC Freeze off. I’m going to try that today. 

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37 minutes ago, Doug DiPaola said:

Thanks for the reference to replacement set. I was wondering how they would ship the long piece; multiple joints. Hopefully new flex lines that are coming soon will complete the job and won’t have to replace for piping. HAHA. I did try the torch and got a scare when things lit up a bit. I have never tried the CRC Freeze off. I’m going to try that today. 

Since the picture shows all pre bent lines I would assume they come like that in a giant box, but we know what assuming does. Glad to hear I'm not the only one that found out PB Blaster is flammable the hard way lol.

 

Vise grips are some of my favorite tools. I have probably at least 20 different kinds of vise grips from needle nose to big body panel ones, they've all come in handy for all kinds of things. My saying is if you can't fix it with duct tape, bailing wire, WD40 and a pair of vise grips you don't know what you're doing or it's not fixable. 

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1 minute ago, 2002iii said:

CRC Freeze off

 

meh.  no better than PB.  Just a catchy name.  imho.  I've got a full can here I'd gladly give you.

 

Can you just leave the nut frozen on the line and spin the new flex lines onto it the way you took the old ones off?

 

How's that for a lazy fix?

 

Tom

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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1 minute ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

meh.  no better than PB.  Just a catchy name.  imho.  I've got a full can here I'd gladly give you.

 

Can you just leave the nut frozen on the line and spin the new flex lines onto it the way you took the old ones off?

 

How's that for a lazy fix?

 

Tom

Well then used dust off upsidedown and you'll get liquid nitrogen which will freeze a bolt, also can freeze your skin so wear eye protection and heavy rubber gloves.

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2 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

meh.  no better than PB.  Just a catchy name.  imho.  I've got a full can here I'd gladly give you.

 

Can you just leave the nut frozen on the line and spin the new flex lines onto it the way you took the old ones off?

 

How's that for a lazy fix?

 

Tom

Hey Tom, I’ll swing over to get that, have friends in Centralia. Yes, it appears there were no leaks from that connection so I could spin on the flex hose. Nothing wrong with a lazy fix. 

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The Nickel-Copper lines I have used have fittings and flares, and come in various lengths.  I would get lines that is longer than needed and cut and flare one end to get the exact length needed.  Not sure what type of flare is needed, it's been a while since I replaced my lines.  I got my lines at O'Reillys. 

 

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