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Hi All, Opinion about a coil please. Trying to get 72 2002 running thats been sitting for ever. Checked cylinder walls, changed oil ect. before cranking. Before it began its long slumber a new cap, points, and rotor were installed by previous owner. New parts showed absolutely no wear. I think they tried a tune up but never got it going again. Using a test light the coil wasnt turning on/off. Diagnostic lead me to points gap way to small, .006", increased gap to .016'. Coil started to cycle, test light flashing. Still wouldnt start. Plugs from previous owner showed signs of a rich condition, black fouled. But a weak spark could do the same. Ohm-ed coil. Primary side between +/- terminals 4.3 ohm, Secondary between +/ and center 9000 ohms. Im think it has a weak coil. What do you think? Im curious if that took it of the road years ago. The owner was having trouble and thought a tune up would solve their issue but it had a failing coil that was never diagnosed.

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Looking around I guess its replacement is a 3.5ohm coil. not far off what Im showing now. 4.3 ohm. Coil maybe ok. Vehicle has a 2 barrel Weber. Im sure the carb is all fouled up. Im just going for a pop bang and spilling a little fluid down the throat. Havent check timing yet. Cranks fine, the starters worn, but cranks. Im sure theres bad grounds every where, bad connectors, chewed wires. Theres alot it could be. Coils are cheap. Next Ill visualize spark color and intensity.

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Going to try and start again later today. Showing up with new plugs, a coil, and a remote start switch. Going to be checking spark. Have new plug wires. Has ballast resistor 11v one side 9 volts other, working. The car's completely stock. Still has original blue covered brake lines. Heres a few pics. Whats the relay above the coil? I read its a speed sensitive relay??? kinda like a rev limiter?? Haynes manuals suck! Inaccurate Elec diag.. Regardless it had a few chewed wires. temp repair. There are a shit load of corroded terminals every where. Have voltage drops greater than 0.5v. Any suggestions on good automotive connector kits or source? Im trying to get vehicle running and warmed, get rings to seat again for a accurate Comp. and leak down test. Right now im lucky to see 125psi. It has a Weber carb, was this stock? Is it any good?

Coil.jpg

Engine.jpg

Carbtag.jpg

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First off that's your starter relay and it looks like one of the wires is broken off. You can find it here. #11 part #: 61319059177 .

 

Haynes manuals are ok but the factory blue book is best, Here. Also checkout realoem.com . In the electric section they have part #s for electrical connectors.

 

Second no the stock carburetor was a Solex, the weber 32/36 you have is the standard upgrade.

 

Your definitely going to want to replace all the old fuel line and that brake booster hose too. You might also want a windshield before you drive it lol.

Edited by 2002iii
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You should not make anymore changes until you lube, lube, sand, polish and or remove any and all corrosion shown on your electrical contacts...........Give yourself a fighting chance.....All of the contacts I see from the coil to the ballasts have corrosion on them....Corrosion ....Ruins continuity .......Once things are cleaned up, you might be able to run as is.....Or you will be able to better isolate an actual problem........I think you'll be ok

 

Good luck

 

ira

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You have a genuine CARB (CA air resources board) certified Weber 32/36.

 

It is really difficult to tell in the pic of the coil which color wires are going where- can you describe? The relay in the pic is to bypass the ballast resistor when starting (provides full system voltage to the coil when starting (turning/cranking the motor over). This is to provide a boost to the coil (and commensurate hotter spark) and compensate for lower system voltage available when engaging the starter (it sucks a huge amount of power). Essentially, you need +12V (or whatever the voltage is after the ballast resistor) connected to the + terminal of the coil and the black wire from the dizzy connected to the negative terminal to have spark. Are you getting power at the + terminal of the coil when the ignition key is in the run position? 

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Success, it started. It only ran off Starting fluid so I didnt run it for long. It washes the oil off the cylinders and detonates when it goes lean bad bad. It did run and ran well. No mice plugging the exhaust. Showed up with a new coil and Plugs and that did the trick. Tried the remote start switch but the circuit was drawing to much current at the starter for the switch to be used, Id have to trace back to the relay if I wanted to use it.  Next ill get a carb rebuild kit and a fuel pump rebuild kit. Again, I wanna get it running before I tear it down, funny but I wanna see how much money I have to dump in it before it gets restored.

Any suggestions on Electrical connector suppliers, and rebuild kit suppliers?

PS Thanks for the Banter, the gal just stares at me....

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