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So after reading all the great information from

everyone while trying to figure out my spark issues I was able to get everything sorted out. I found some points and a condenser at our local O’Reilly’s and reread the basics of setting TDC and cap placement. After a few sputtering tries and adjusting the distributor Ziggy came to life. 



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Posted (edited)

After I had it running I went to go for a drive and wasn’t able to shift it into gear and reverse was a quick grind before I pulled back. I guess I need to start with the hydraulics. It shifts through all the gears when not running 

Edited by Fortlauderdalian
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I guess before rocking it does the clutch pedal have any resistance to it or does it just flop to the floor if it dies just flop the the hydraulics need attention if it has resistance theirs really not trick to rocking it, the clutch may let go with a bang or a whimper but you'll feel it go.

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Another trick to free up the clutch and pressure plate from a too-eager embrace:  with the car in 2nd gear, hit the starter and let the car jerk forward a couple of times.  That usually frees up a stuck disk.  


If that's not the problem, I'd suspect worn out shift bracket mounts.  They're the items that hold the shift bracket to the back of the tranny, and are bonded rubber/metal bushings that the mounting bolts pass through.  When the rubber dies, it allows the bracket to move with the shifter, preventing you from selecting certain gears--especially reverse.  They're kinda bitchy to reach for replacement with the driveshaft and exhaust in place, but it can be done. And...the Allen head bolts that pass through the bushings may just be loose and need re-torquing.  



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    You might think about a seized/dry pilot bearing- that will also make it difficult to shift (similar to a stuck clutch plate). IIRC, the shift mount bracket allen bolts screw into "thru" holes which will cause a fluid leak if not sealed. With old brackets out, clean bolts threads and mounting holes w/carb spray and let/blow dry (not much spray into trans hole, obviously). Use blue (easy to remove) or red (harder) loctite depending on how well you want the bolts to stay/seal  after you've torqued them (into the aluminum housing) properly. In the end, make sure that both shift support bracket horizontal faces stay parallel with the new bushing's horizontal face's when torqued down. Bushings wear out sooner and transmit noise/vibration if not aligned. A long allen socket will sometimes help with the odd angles encountered.

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