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Who’s done 318 Jetronic EFI with MAF conversion?


Mucci

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Has anyone done an MAF conversion to the L-Jetronic 318 EFI? If so how did you do it?

 

From some Porsche 944 forum research it looks like Split Second makes a conversion for the L-Jet system for around $350 ( PSC1-009 HV ). I’m curious if anyone has done it on their M10 and if they felt noticeable gains. 

1975 2002 - US Spec, Taiga Green

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I did try it with S14 motronic. Hp and torq were marginally better and idle was a little worse so i decided to stay with flapper afm (for now). Can’t remember did we have to tweak ecu for it.

 

good read here:

 

https://www.mye28.com/tech/rods_pages/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/afm_by_fr_wilk.pdf

 

 

2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

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Seems like it's no more money and a hell of a lot less time to trash the Motronic system and install a low cost (that's all it needs for a M10) aftermarket ECU and ancillaries if you want to go MAF.  

ID725 20180429 WOT MidAm.jpgOn the road MAF retrofit, Haltech Elite.  Road speed indicator is jagged from a 6 pin/Hall Effect sensor reading the output flange on the diff and happened to be noisy.

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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I have some experience with the Split Second system on an E30-

(Moronic 1.3)

 

it works.   It DOES give you control over fuelling.  It's not hard to

wire or to tune.  It can't be any better than the fuel system it's feeding

a signal.

 

And the total winner- their support is very good.  They were very

patient with the friend's car with this system, and helped him

sort out any number of wiring issues.

 

Honestly, though, unless I was trying to keep an E28 'almost stock'

or something like that, I'd take Jim's advise, and go fully programmable.

 

t

 

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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10 hours ago, Mucci said:

Has anyone done an MAF conversion to the L-Jetronic 318 EFI? If so how did you do it?

One option:

Some info here before the thread devolves into the standard, predictable and oh so tedious MS/aftermarket vs Stock debate.

 

Edited by tech71

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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I appreciate the feedback on other options. 

 

@jimk Which Haltech unit are you using that's no more cost than the $350 Split Second kit? I thought they were $1K +

 

@TobyB I read that there's some "wall" you hit with the Split Second unit that doesn't allow gains above a 284° cam. That sound familiar or make any sense? I'm not sure the limitation there. 

 

According to SS the software is tunable to adapt to changes like camshafts, pistons, etc. I suppose I'm not well researched enough to understand the added value of the $1k+ units like MS. I'm sure it's value depends on your setup goals. My power:weight calc tells me I'll be very pleased with 150hp. I'm just trying to get there efficiently ...because the rest of the car needs work too.

 

@tech71 Very cool / inexpensive. It sounds like the only gain with that system is the incorporated MAF correct? I scored this M10B18 with ECU & harness for free recently so I've already got most of the parts to do the conversion. It didn't come with the AFM so that's why I'm looking into the MAF conversions. 

 

132367863_427260358297164_53077460192807

Edited by Mucci

1975 2002 - US Spec, Taiga Green

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5 minutes ago, tzei said:

With that SS conversion kit you'll need to buy MAF too. 

 

What about just sourcing AFM from E30/28 and get it up and running first? 

 

 

After having multiple E30/E28's I cringe at the thought of spending money on an AFM ? 

 

I could probably just as cheaply grab a MAF sensor from the junkyard and if I can get that working for a few hundred and have mild tunability it seems worth it. 

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1975 2002 - US Spec, Taiga Green

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1 hour ago, Mucci said:

Very cool / inexpensive. It sounds like the only gain with that system is the incorporated MAF correct?

I have no practical experience with this but what I gather from the post is, you can get more fuel delivered than is possible with E30 set up. More suitable for higher output engines.

The Volvo eng is somewhat larger and the ECM on later setups has a removable chip.

With only the FI engine in your possession, the SS system might be a good choice for you.

Unless you find a suitable donor car, either way, it will be fun!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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2 hours ago, Mucci said:

My power:weight calc tells me I'll be very pleased with 150hp

Who wouldn't? I'm pretty comfortable saying thats not going to be possible using stock 318i LJet. It would hit the wall on fuel delivery. The ECU is stupid and you just cant talk to it.

 

acknowledges that LJet is what it is and thats pretty much all it can ever be

 

Edited by tech71

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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3 hours ago, Mucci said:

 Which Haltech unit are you using that's no more cost than the $350 Split Second kit? I thought they were $1K

The one I am using is not the one that provides all the features necessary for the 1.8l engine.  When I bought mine, it was the only model available and has lots more capability than needed, but I have fun adding on things (that are not necessary).  For instance but don't think I have any use is the tire pressure monitoring setup.

The bottom of the line Elite 550 is needed. Set it up for MAF, MAP or TPS (AlphaN) for load control.  Self tunes.

Be certain that Split Second $350 is ALL you will be spending when comparing systems.  Will it let you do ignition timing changes or go coil per plug?  If you find later when you add enhancements to the engine and the injectors are too small does it let you simply inter the new size or start the tuning all over if possible to even change injectors?

Edited by jimk
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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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2 hours ago, Mucci said:

I could probably just as cheaply grab a MAF sensor from the junkyard

One from a 90s Volvo will do.  It has ends for intake hoses.  That's what I did.  Less than $30.  I located the calibration curve (Mas air flow vs voltage) and entered it into the tune file, Fuel map then had 1.0 in all cells and the ECU corrected the cells a few percent.

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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8 hours ago, tech71 said:

Who wouldn't? I'm pretty comfortable saying thats not going to be possible using stock 318i LJet. It would hit the wall on fuel delivery. The ECU is stupid and you just cant talk to it.

 

acknowledges that LJet is what it is and thats pretty much all it can ever be

 

 

Hmmm, well that would be a no-go for me if it can't reach that power or handle injector upgrades. I'll dig into it a bit more to see.

 

Maybe bolting up all the E30 mechanical bits then adapting the LH 2.2 ECU and MAF could be an inexpensive option. I thought I read the later LH systems that have the removable chips were more complicated and required adding more sensors / systems.

1975 2002 - US Spec, Taiga Green

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6 hours ago, jimk said:

The one I am using is not the one that provides all the features necessary for the 1.8l engine.  When I bought mine, it was the only model available and has lots more capability than needed, but I have fun adding on things (that are not necessary).  For instance but don't think I have any use is the tire pressure monitoring setup.

The bottom of the line Elite 550 is needed. Set it up for MAF, MAP or TPS (AlphaN) for load control.  Self tunes.

Be certain that Split Second $350 is ALL you will be spending when comparing systems.  Will it let you do ignition timing changes or go coil per plug?  If you find later when you add enhancements to the engine and the injectors are too small does it let you simply inter the new size or start the tuning all over if possible to even change injectors?

 

Hmm, The 550 is still about $850 without wiring. Pretty pricey but I'll keep it in mind if these cheaper options don't work out.

1975 2002 - US Spec, Taiga Green

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