gwb72tii Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) Some time ago I picked up a LSD for my tii off a seller on Ebay. The LSD is in an oem 2002 differential housing, but without the normal identifying marks you would expect on a 2002 LSD. That leaves me wondering if the seller, who was racing 2002's at the time, built the LSD from scratch in the oem housing. The diff is in my tii and was a straight out swap. My question is how I might identify if my diff is a 25% vs 40% or something else. And why I should care? And secondly exactly what 25% or 40% means? lol I should add the diff is a 3.90:1 and my car is a 4spd. Thanks for any help Edited December 23, 2020 by gwb72tii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tzei Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 The only way to be 100% sure is to take locking unit apart and see its internals. Case has ZF part number ending with last tree digits like S25 or S40 etc. That tells only what it had been from factory and it might have been rebuild to other specs. 25%, 40% or 75% refers units "lock up". 100% is spool = no slippage between rear wheels. https://drivetribe.com/p/how-limited-slip-diffs-make-you-aKo9i9p4TdiBurut_Y4zSg?iid=ferTwyYQSLaxAe9gHGgj4Q If you happy with units performance you shouldn't care one way or the other. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtimerfahrer Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 The casings are identical, except for the stampings on oem lsd diffs but you could stamp the numbers on. I bought a second second hand diff for my E30, that was an expensive object lesson. If its important that it works, I would have it checked to ensure that the clutches are good and the contact angles are good, i.e. it will apply the correct rate of lock up. My E30 diff hat shot in it from blasting the case, the ramp angles were wrong and it was generally speaking improperly assembled...so while all the parts were new it was not set up right and would have failed (ignoring the blasting medium getting washed into the roller bearings). A 25% is the standard road going diff, 40% is somewhere in between road and fast road, Toby and others can share views on the higher lockup %. For normal use, I would say proper function is more important than the %, both are ok. The clutch pack (clutch and washers)varies by the lockup you want to achieve, the friction plates have obvious signs of incorrect wear and if worn out its just an open diff. I would take it apart before installing. If it is newly and properly buikt, you should check the oil level after install and run some slow figure 8s in a parking lot for 15-20 minutes, then swap out the oil again. The abrasives from the clutch are in the oil after the initial embedding and damage the diff....you can strain filter and reuse though. Andrew 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uai Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 And using correct oil for lsd is also important. I use the blue stuff from motul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicleonardo1 Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 or Redline 75W90 synthetic gear oil..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TobyB Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 I just weld mine. Bkuz race car. I too always wondered how precise the 'percent' number could be- I've had 'junkyard' LSDs in track cars, and they did pretty well under lapping day conditions. I mean, at the factory, you can set preload and ramp angle and such, but in 1st gear, there's 3x as much torque available as there is in 4th, and those liddle widdle clutches just aren't going to transfer 25% or 40% of the 1st gear (or more realistically, 2nd gear, really) torque for very long. Personally, getting more clutch area is the best argument I can see for going to a 188mm diff, myself. t cheap- ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtimerfahrer Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 My E30 has the 188 case, you can double the clutches in the 188 case, so you have 4 in total and milling the plates to adjust the ramp angle determines to my understanding how progressive the lockup is, not the %. A guy that builds racing drivetrains built mine, after I had bought it "rebuilt" from a well meaning but inexperienced E30 fan. My builder had a lot of time on his hands, since noone is racing at the moment here, so he explained a lot about which surfaces are key, how they are milled etc. There are even petrol and diesel LSD units for the E30, which are different. He says that the oem clutch packs are really good, they are interchangeable with the ones Porsche sells as oem, so he usually uses those. I don't know if you can double up in the small 168 case, components are all different. I would agree with Toby on the size of the clutch pack in the 168 diff, but my 168 had a broken pinion, clutch pack was ok. Andrew 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conserv Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 On 12/23/2020 at 1:49 PM, gwb72tii said: ... My question is how I might identify if my diff is a 25% vs 40% or something else. And why I should care?... You probably shouldn’t care. If you occasionally but regularly track or autocross the car, you might prefer the 40% lockup. But if the car is strictly for street use, you’ll be fine with a 25% unit. The factory ‘02 LSD’s were 25%, while the factory e21 units were 40%. Oh, wait, that’s probably backwards. 😯😏😉 Best regards, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uai Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 2 hours ago, Conserv said: The factory ‘02 LSD’s were 25%, while the factory e21 units were 40%. Oh, wait, maybe that’s backwards. 😯😏😉 It is backwards indeed. The Ramp angles are different but you can omit the solid shims in a factory 40% 02 LSD and add some bellwashers ans spacers to get some preload or more friction discs to make it something like 60% with preload or 75% Adding more than 40% is on fast tracks with lots of grip inducing understeer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conserv Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 1 hour ago, uai said: It is backwards indeed. The Ramp angles are different but you can omit the solid shims in a factory 40% 02 LSD and add some bellwashers ans spacers to get some preload or more friction discs to make it something like 60% with preload or 75% Adding more than 40% is on fast tracks with lots of grip inducing understeer. Thank you, Uli! Merry Christmas, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
visionaut Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 Now, it’s that 200% lock up LSD you gotta be extra cautious with boys and girls... 🤪 (sorry, couldn’t help myself — merry merry all!!) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TobyB Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 awww, I see what you did there, Kesey... t 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_B Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 Lift the back end of your car off the ground so that the wheels turn freely, Turn one of your wheels. If you have a (standard, factory) LSD, your other wheel will turn in the same direction as the wheel you are turning, If it turns in the opposite direction, you do not have an LSD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwb72tii Posted December 25, 2020 Author Share Posted December 25, 2020 I know it is a LSD thanks I’ve had it in the car for the last 10 years, all the way and back from Seattle to North Carolina so second question how hard would it be to rebuild myself, or am I better off thanking it to a competent shop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtimerfahrer Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 I think if you can set up a standard diff correctly, getting an LSD approximately right should not be a problem. What is wrong with it? You started the thread with a question on how to tell whether you have an LSD at all, but now you want to rebuild it...without explaining what's wrong with it... Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.