1973 2002 Heater Blower problem

[Mk2zetec]

Evening all. I’ve recently acquired a restored & rally prepared 2002 which was imported from Spain. The weather in the UK is just a little colder and damper than it’s original home and it’s desperately in need of a working heater blower. As it’s a later ‘02 I understand the fan is controlled by the lower slider on the right hand side of the steering wheel (left hand drive car) which seems seized solid. Any suggestions where to start?! 

[Mike Self]

A little clarification from your post...is the blower motor seized, or the sliding switch?  

 

First of all, make sure the motor is getting current.  Connect a voltmeter to the two terminals on the blower motor and briefly turn the switch on to high speed--you should have close to +12v at the motor.  If not, check the fuse, and then the switch.  Those open switch contacts under the dash get all corroded and won't pass current.  Double over a piece of fine sandpaper and slide it between the contacts to clean 'em up.  But...if you have 12 volts at the motor...

 

You can (just barely) access the upper armature bushing from under the hood.  Put some penetrating oil on the bushing, and then use a thin screwdriver or something similar to turn the fan blade; try loosening it up before you attempt to try powering it.  If it sits frozen with the power on for more than 20-30 seconds, you'll either blow the fuse or start melting the motor's brush holders, so get the fan turning first.  Once it does so, see if it'll turn with the power on.  If so, let it run and apply oil;  if you're lucky, it'll start moving faster and faster, and you're good.

 

If you're unlucky, or discover the brush holders show signs of melting, you're gonna have to pull the heater.  Lotsa articles on the FAQ on how to do that.  But it's much easier to try and resurrect the motor in place...and worth a try.

 

Good luck

mike

[Mk2zetec]

Thanks Mike. It’s the sliding switch that’s seized.  The motor spins freely. I’ll try and get some penetrating oil to the end of the armature and into the Bowden cable. The car has been rewired with a modern motorsport loom so don’t believe it’s the motor at fault. 

[Mike Self]

Lucky you that it's not the motor.  As for the switch--you can remove the two control knobs and gently pull off the silver switch cover--that'll give you (slightly) more access to the blower switch--you may also need some underdash contortions.  The switch lever pivots on a rivet, so a little shot of penetrating oil on the pivot should free it up, followed by the previously described swipes with sandpaper on the contacts.  IIRC there's no Bowden cable connected to the blower switch, only to the temperature control lever that's next to it.  

 

Just went through this with a friend's '75 that had sat outside for 16 years--switch was sticky and had corroded contacts; the above is how we got it working again.

 

Nice car, BTW--should be a blast to drive.

 

mike

[Mk2zetec]

Thanks Mike. It is indeed an absolute blast to drive. Can’t beat the sound of twin 40’s. It will be all the better when I can see! 

[AustrianVespaGuy]

Just to be super clear, there are 3 things on the dashboard that need to 'work' in order to get cabin heat:

1.) Blower motor, upper RH slider.  Sounds like this is fine in this case, so check.

2.) Coolant valve, lower RH slider.  This bowden cable opens/closes the coolant valve that controls the flow of engine coolant through the heater core.  Make sure it slides freely and the valve in the 'valley' between the firewall and the engine bay operates.

3.) Heater box air flaps, lower LH side (/Defrost flaps on upper slider).  Sounds like it's this one that you're having problems with, but make sure to check both the slider side and the flaps side of things down at the heater box.  I think both can bind up/quit working in various ways!