Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Best Approach to This Rust?


2002#3

Recommended Posts

What might be a recommended approach to this rust issue, especially the deep junction of the floor and the quarter panel?  All metal seems to be strong, I have not found any areas of rust-through, and I don't think any metal needs to be replaced.  After following (as far as I can) rust to good metal, grinding, and prep, I plan to start with RustMort, a good rust-stopper I have used before.  Then...

Larry

 

IMG_2017.jpegIMG_2016.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Larry, some years ago I bought some Sherwin-Williams industrial primer that was meant for such things as ocean-going ships and steel bridges (like the Golden Gate).  I've used it on several cars--without a top coat--in places such as you pictured, as well as on the underside, and it is very effective.  Kinda like the original Rustoleum "damp proof red primer" that actually had fish oil as an ingredient (ever seen a rusty fish?  I rest my case).  You have to buy a gallon, but that'll do the entire underside of several 2002s.  Can't find the part number on the can, but any S-W store should know what it is, and have it.

 

mike

 

 

  • Haha 2

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would use a two part epoxy primer that works with whatever paint you’re going to topcoat it with...Check underneath that area there’s a brace that is prone to catching debris  and rusting up into the floor.

Don’t let the fear of what could happen

make nothing happen…

 

  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I highly recommend having that area & any others similar to that media blasted to get them as clean as possible. If it's perforated the media will show it. Remember a stitch in time saves nine. 

 

Not a fan of Paint Over Rust coatings, to my thinking they are temporary fixes until proper repairs can be made. 

  • Like 1

Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Mike Self said:

Larry, some years ago I bought some Sherwin-Williams industrial primer that was meant for such things as ocean-going ships and steel bridges (like the Golden Gate).  I've used it on several cars--without a top coat--in places such as you pictured, as well as on the underside, and it is very effective.  Kinda like the original Rustoleum "damp proof red primer" that actually had fish oil as an ingredient (ever seen a rusty fish?  I rest my case).  You have to buy a gallon, but that'll do the entire underside of several 2002s.  Can't find the part number on the can, but any S-W store should know what it is, and have it.

 

mike

 

 

Mike, it's zinc phosphate primer and used all over the place on industrial plant steel structures.   Every painting specification I saw at work had this stuff required as a primer.   West Marine sells rattle can zinc phosphate primer but the last time I looked it was about $17 a can.  I don't do body work but often wondered why with the rusting potential of the 02 that zinc phosphate primer wasn't the preferred primer.

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would definitely media blast it like Andrew @adawil2002 said, for that small area it would not be too hard. Then do the POR style treatment https://www.kbs-coatings.com/kbs-three-step-system.html

It will clean and etch then protect. If you have thin areas or a pinhole and you don't want to deal with it.  once it is all clean and prepped you can use a thicker product like this.  https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-49013-Black-POR-Patch/dp/B00J594AQ2

If the blasting reveals nothing bad you can use your rust mort, or etching primer and normal paint. 

Your trunk looks great compared to mine! I'm dealing with patches in that area, not so easily done. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what had to be done to Vern.

 

 

DSCN5063.JPG

IMG_3041.JPG

IMG_2969.JPG

DSCN5047.JPG

Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In similar circumstances, I've used a 3M stripping pad, an etch primer, then an epoxy primer over that.

I've also used bomb can over the etch prime, and it's worked, too.

The etch primer (self- etching primer) is also available in a 'wash' that 

does a zinc phosphate job on the rust.  You DO need to be able to coat it immediately

after you apply it, though, or it will start pulling moisture out of the air.

 

The winner for the seam is Waxoyl, 3M rust- fighter, or something similar (see Mike's rusty fish, above)

 

The seam to the fender is an early attempt at panel bonding, so it's very prone to rust.

 

(unlike the rest of the car?)

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...