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Best Approach to This Rust?


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What might be a recommended approach to this rust issue, especially the deep junction of the floor and the quarter panel?  All metal seems to be strong, I have not found any areas of rust-through, and I don't think any metal needs to be replaced.  After following (as far as I can) rust to good metal, grinding, and prep, I plan to start with RustMort, a good rust-stopper I have used before.  Then...

Larry

 

IMG_2017.jpegIMG_2016.jpeg

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Larry, some years ago I bought some Sherwin-Williams industrial primer that was meant for such things as ocean-going ships and steel bridges (like the Golden Gate).  I've used it on several cars--without a top coat--in places such as you pictured, as well as on the underside, and it is very effective.  Kinda like the original Rustoleum "damp proof red primer" that actually had fish oil as an ingredient (ever seen a rusty fish?  I rest my case).  You have to buy a gallon, but that'll do the entire underside of several 2002s.  Can't find the part number on the can, but any S-W store should know what it is, and have it.

 

mike

 

 

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I highly recommend having that area & any others similar to that media blasted to get them as clean as possible. If it's perforated the media will show it. Remember a stitch in time saves nine. 

 

Not a fan of Paint Over Rust coatings, to my thinking they are temporary fixes until proper repairs can be made. 

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12 hours ago, Mike Self said:

Larry, some years ago I bought some Sherwin-Williams industrial primer that was meant for such things as ocean-going ships and steel bridges (like the Golden Gate).  I've used it on several cars--without a top coat--in places such as you pictured, as well as on the underside, and it is very effective.  Kinda like the original Rustoleum "damp proof red primer" that actually had fish oil as an ingredient (ever seen a rusty fish?  I rest my case).  You have to buy a gallon, but that'll do the entire underside of several 2002s.  Can't find the part number on the can, but any S-W store should know what it is, and have it.

 

mike

 

 

Mike, it's zinc phosphate primer and used all over the place on industrial plant steel structures.   Every painting specification I saw at work had this stuff required as a primer.   West Marine sells rattle can zinc phosphate primer but the last time I looked it was about $17 a can.  I don't do body work but often wondered why with the rusting potential of the 02 that zinc phosphate primer wasn't the preferred primer.

Edited by jimk
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I would definitely media blast it like Andrew @adawil2002 said, for that small area it would not be too hard. Then do the POR style treatment https://www.kbs-coatings.com/kbs-three-step-system.html

It will clean and etch then protect. If you have thin areas or a pinhole and you don't want to deal with it.  once it is all clean and prepped you can use a thicker product like this.  https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-49013-Black-POR-Patch/dp/B00J594AQ2

If the blasting reveals nothing bad you can use your rust mort, or etching primer and normal paint. 

Your trunk looks great compared to mine! I'm dealing with patches in that area, not so easily done. 

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In similar circumstances, I've used a 3M stripping pad, an etch primer, then an epoxy primer over that.

I've also used bomb can over the etch prime, and it's worked, too.

The etch primer (self- etching primer) is also available in a 'wash' that 

does a zinc phosphate job on the rust.  You DO need to be able to coat it immediately

after you apply it, though, or it will start pulling moisture out of the air.

 

The winner for the seam is Waxoyl, 3M rust- fighter, or something similar (see Mike's rusty fish, above)

 

The seam to the fender is an early attempt at panel bonding, so it's very prone to rust.

 

(unlike the rest of the car?)

 

t

 

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