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brake booster pivot pin and clasp installation tips sought


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Hello all -- In replacing my brake booster, I am stymied when it comes to getting the pin and clasp that attach it to the pivot point near the brake switch (ie - the other end from the master cylinder).  I've got meat hooks of hands and can't get in that tight space!  I've tried a number of my tricks, but so far ... nothing.

 

So starting over, and referencing the photos below -- does it go in per the top or bottom photo orientation?  I can get in the in the orientation shown in the bottom photo, but  haven't yet the other way.  Even when it is in the bottom photo orientation, I cannot get that clip back on!

 

Any tips?  I've got all my forceps, needle nose pliers, magnets and even some bent paper clips all brought to bear on this -- the only thing wearing thin is my resolve.

IMG_1019.JPG

IMG_1020.JPG

Edited by WRKO
clarification of question
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The clip that was used on the e21's is much more user friendly, but working with what you have there I've had luck using a wire or strong string loop through the fold in the clip so you can hold it in position with a flat screwdriver and when in position pull up on it with some force so that it winds up in the position shown in your bottom picture then just cut the loop.

 

P.S. don't hit yourself in the nose when pulling the string if the clip slips off, it's no fun.

Edited by Son of Marty
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Either orientation should work but with the closed part of the clip upward.   I feed chicken wire through the closed end as a leash in the event it doesn't seat and drops.  The clip should slide in the groove and seat with the help of flathead screwdrivers pushing on the side and on top.   Remove the chicken wire once it's in position. 

 

Hope that helps.

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Try two long bbq wooden skewers, then insert to open the clip on both sides.  You then use the skewers to steer onto the pin.  Once in, just back the skewers out.  

 

Have done this several times with great success.  

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I was just putting together a short installation tips doc on this and here is what I came up with. 

 

The clevis pin is originally inserted as in your first pic.  It makes it much easier to get the clip on with the pin inserted from that side.  But I first insert the pin from the other side though to get the fork orientated on the hole.   Sometimes a slight nudge of the brake pedal by a helper assists in getting the pin aligned.  If you are having a difficult time inserting the pin from that side, try prying the fork toward the engine slightly to provide more space.  Use needle nose pliers to hold and insert the pin.  Once the pin is inserted, use a screwdriver to hold it in the hole.  Inserting the pin as in your first pic allows you to use the side of the booster bracket as leverage.

 

Because that clip is so stiff, I created a small wedge that pries open the front of the clevis pin.  This means you only have to overcome the inner tensioner part of the clip when pushing it on.  Once you have the pin clipped in, you just push the spreader off of it.  It made the process less of a bitch. 

 

I'm attaching the stl file for the wedge for those with 3D printers but would be happy to mail one out to anyone that needs one.

Pics attached.

Needlenose Pliers.jpg

Hold with Screwdriver.jpg

Clip Spreader.jpg

Clip and Spreader in Place (2).jpg

Clipped On Position.jpg

Clevis Pin Opener.stl

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doing in the car is a bit more challenging than on a bench as pictured above...wedge a large screw driver with a wide blade in the end of the clip and maneuver it on the pin...

 

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20 minutes ago, esty said:

wedge a large screw driver with a wide blade in the end of the clip and maneuver it on the pin...

This is exactly the purpose of the little wedge and it is designed to open the clip wider than any screwdriver can since the tip of the screwdriver will interfere with the large receiving opening for the pin.   The wedge is split to go around the receiving hole.  The plastic wedge makes it just as easy on the car as on the bench.

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5 hours ago, jimk said:

Clip is well known as the "bitch clip"

Yeap! 

 

I have somehow managed using a magnet, screw driver, and a pliers. Stuffing a rag to prevent it from falling into the abyss of the driver side frame rail helps-as you have done so.  

 

I hate that job as much as I hate doing the sunroof, and the one nut on the brake booster closest to the fender. And likely some other mundane PIA jobs I have purposely chosen to forget.  

 

but what do I know 

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18 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

The clip that was used on the e21's is much more user friendly, but working with what you have there I've had luck using a wire or strong string loop through the fold in the clip so you can hold it in position with a flat screwdriver and when in position pull up on it with some force so that it winds up in the position shown in your bottom picture then just cut the loop.

Here is a post with a picture of the E21 clip

 

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13 hours ago, halboyles said:

This is exactly the purpose of the little wedge and it is designed to open the clip wider than any screwdriver can since the tip of the screwdriver will interfere with the large receiving opening for the pin.   The wedge is split to go around the receiving hole.  The plastic wedge makes it just as easy on the car as on the bench.

i agree 100%... but how many of us have that clip? most or all of us have a screw driver...

 

where did you get that anyway?...the file you attached above will not open on my pc

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1 minute ago, esty said:

where did you get that anyway?...the file you attached above will not open on my pc

I designed it with 3D Builder, the 3D maker software that comes with Windows 10.  The file format only opens in software that "slices" 3D models for printing.  It can be printed it on any 3D printer.  PM me with your address and I'll send you a few to share with friends.

With this wedge in place and the clip held firmly against the booster fork, you can easily just push the clip down onto the pin,  Takes minutes.

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Hello all and thanks for the wealth of tips and information.  After continuing on with a hodgepodge of every tool and improvised device, I still have not finished this job yet.  I now have and have 2 wedgie splitters on the way!  I will keep you posted on how they work out for me. 

 

Also, the descriptive term used in previous posts reminded me that I did this job in the past.  It was a pain then and I must have deleted that memory!

 

To think that this job started out with a desire to make the car idle more smoothly by changing out the motor mounts.  I have now changed the DS motor mount, steering coupler,  updated the starter to the e28 M5 type, installed a 123tune distributor, changed out the brake booster and am working on the master cylinder. 

 

I still have the PS motor mount, transmission mounts and brake job to follow. Oh and I will probably change out the trans and diff fluids again, you know, "while I am in there".

 

Speaking of the master cylinder - As you will likley predict, I was successful in removing 4 out of the 5 line fittings on the old unit.  Despite using the proper flair wrench, getting a good bite on it, and taking my time - the rear brake line fitting at the master cylinder has stripped.  I got the master cylinder out by holding the residual pressure valve with a wrench and spinning the master cylinder around and out. 

 

I've not repaired hard brake line fittings before, but that is next.

 

And in a bit of misadventure, I pulled the residual pressure valve off of my new master cylinder.  I was unaware that there was a spring and ball bearing in there.   So now I will be determining how it goes back together and determining if I lost any parts.  Anyone have a picture of that?

 

This is probably the longest post I have ever written thanks to a temporarily empty house on a quiet Sunday morning with plenty of coffee.

 

Back at it,

wrko

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