Instrument Cluster and Suspension issues..

[Stevenhy92]

Three things, and a lengthy post..

1. I finally got all my LEDS and signals working properly!
2. I took my car for a spin around my neighborhood after doing the odometer repair from the FAQ. Also tried adding a ground to the brass nuts on the back in an attempt to fix the fuel guage. Before I removed the cluster the tachometer, temp guage, as well as the speedo was working. The fuel guage needle was not working to begin with. I also broke the speedo needle while working on the odometer (my fault). After the repair, only the temp guage is working and I can't tell if the speedo is. I didn't drive far enough to see if the odometer is working but the tripmeter seems to be working.
3. The reason I didn't drive far enough to see if the odometer was working is because I kept hearing a rotating, knocking sound coming from the front right suspension area. It sounded like my wheel or something was going to fall off. I have wheel spacers with studs so my aftermarket wheels can clear the strut, checked those and it seems to be okay. I'm thinking a front suspension rebuild would fix this? It's probably due for a rebuild anyways..

 

I'm stuck at this point, are there any other grounds I can add or any other fixes for my cluster? Are there any companies that can rebuild it, or should I just buy one in working condition?

 

Any suggestions for the knock sound in my suspension? I've looked at the bluntech kit with the control arms and I'm thinking of going that route unless there are any other kits readily available or if I should just piece it together.

 

Thanks to all of you, it's been great learning and trying to work on some of these things by myself and I'm not mechanically inclined whatsoever.

[pminasi]

I just had my speedometer repaired/rebuilt through Palo Alto Speedo (http://www.paspeedo.com). They also converted my clock to a quartz mechanism so it works again. They definitely know what they are doing. I also had the speedo cable replaced. The other speedo repair shop that I have heard does great work is North Hollywood Speedo (https://www.nhspeedometer.com), but they don't do quartz conversions, so everything went to PAS. 

 

As for ground wires, my mechanic added an additional ground wire to the instrument cluster as it is a pretty common "upgrade." Unfortunately since I didn't do the repair, I couldn't tell you what is involved, but if you have a good indy shop, they should know about the procedure, or maybe there is a post here. Good luck!

[stephers]

Ok  you need to tackle this one step at a time

 

#1    fuel gauge not working, was not working before taking cluster out  nothing changed     Temp part is working so it is isolated to fuel only        Remove panel cover in trunk so you can access the fuel sending unit   Remove the signal wire and ground it out    fuel gauge  should read to full, if not , need to remove sending unit and check 

 

 

Before jumping into ordering a bunch of parts, you need to know what you need        There are stages in how you go about this

1- Diagnose issue    decide which area of the car that it is coming from     Does it do it when standing still?  When moving?  When turning?  etc       Does it speed up with the engine rpm or with car speed?    Does it stay the same     Use all of your senses to determine where to start looking

 

2- Investigate area of issue      In this case it sounds like it is coming from the frt wheel area       Jack the car up, making sure that you use jackstands  

Spin the wheel, can you hear anything?    Grab the wheel 12 and 6 o clock and see if there is any play, ( wheel bearings ? )

Wiggle the wheel back and forth at 9 and 3 oclock, see if there is any play in the steering ( make sure steering lock is off )  Remove wheel for further checks .   Start by grabbing each part of the suspension and see if there is any play

 

3) Decide if parts are worn and need replacement    or can they be adjusted      if requires parts, do some price checking with the different vendors, paying attention to both price and quality   Also check for shipping deals   Use Realoem to help with seeing how the parts go together  and to get part numbers for what you need       If adjusting, cross reference with shop manual on making adjustments and what are acceptable wear limits          Order parts

 

4) While waiting for parts arrive gives you time to fully take things apart, get the cleaned up, painted, powder coated or plated as to what you want     As the parts come in, you are ready to put back together  with nice clean parts 

 

This is what I have doing for years and seems to work well for me   I hate to see guys start by just buying a bunch of parts that may or may not be needed    Just because someone else had a similar issue does not mean that ist will be the same for your issue       It may help in giving you some direction but that's all   

 

Good luck and good hunting

 

Thanks, Rick     

[jimk]

5 hours ago, stephers said:

 Remove the signal wire and ground it out    fuel gauge  should read to full, if not , need to remove sending unit and check 

I think you mean if the gauge needs fixing if it does not read full with the signal wire grounded.  

[Gordon]

16 hours ago, Stevenhy92 said:

Three things, and a lengthy post..

The reason I didn't drive far enough to see if the odometer was working is because I kept hearing a rotating, knocking sound coming from the front right suspension area. It sounded like my wheel or something was going to fall off. I have wheel spacers with studs so my aftermarket wheels can clear the strut, checked those and it seems to be okay. I'm thinking a front suspension rebuild would fix this? It's probably due for a rebuild anyways..

Any suggestions for the knock sound in my suspension? I've looked at the bluntech kit with the control arms and I'm thinking of going that route unless there are any other kits readily available or if I should just piece it together.

 

Your aftermarket wheels, what size are they and what's the offset?   If you have proper wheels for a 2002, you shouldn't need to run spacers.  Recommend you spend some time in this thread to soak up some knowledge from those who've been there, done that.  https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/142446-tires-and-wheelrims-fitment-guide/?tab=comments#comment-933691

 

 

[stephers]

Yes   that's what happens when you do this too late at night.     Thanks for pointing that out

 

Thanks, Rick

[Stevenhy92]

Thank you all for the advice, I’ll keep digging and seeing what I can do to fix the cluster! 
 

Turns out I am a complete idiot and had the wrong direction on my two front wheels. Swapped them and the knocking sound went away haha. I was to excited to put the wheels on apparently. 

[Mike Self]

On 11/20/2020 at 7:22 PM, Stevenhy92 said:

I also broke the speedo needle while working on the odometer (my fault).

If you'd like to try repairing the broken speedo needle yourself, PM me--I did a column on that very repair I performed for a fellow 02er and then wrote about.

 

And let us know if you are still having problems with the fuel gauge.  If the problem is with the sender, I also did a column on troubleshooting them, so lemme know.

 

cheers

mike

[Needleeater@yahoo.com]

On 12/24/2020 at 12:39 AM, stephers said:

Maybe, will check out what I have tomorrow and let you know     What is your email?  Easier to send pictures that way

 

Thanks, Rick

paul.brownell@live.com.