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Weber dual 40 DCOE to IL manifold


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Anyone have any problems fitting their 40's to a IL manifold?  I was dry fitting my carbs yesterday and it seemed that the carbs would not fit on the studs smoothly.  Seems like the studs are a couple of mm off.  I will check again today,  but wanted to see if there was anything that I was missing.  Also,  how does the linkage to the carb look?  The bolt head seems to hit the carb stub below on picture #4.

 

Thanks all.

 

 

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I found it was worth it to spend a few hours cleaning up my IE Manifold, for the same, and other issues. 

 

My casting wasn't so clean, and the machining not exactly precise. And if you're going to port-mach things ya might as well take the 'while you're in there' approach to dialing it in. 

 

-J

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My IE intake was ever so slightly off for one carb. With a tiny bit of hole filing on the carb I managed to slip it on. I had a bigger issue with the vacuum booster takeoff. I didn't like the idea of it coming straight out of the manifold so I found a 90deg elbow, but it ran out of threads and hit the manifold before it tightened up. I ended up using a 2" 1/4NPT extension into a T fitting. It snugged up because I could thread it in deeper without anything hitting. One side of the T now goes to the brake booster and I installed a vacuum gauge on the other side of the T.

 

I also started out with the type of linkage you show in your pics, but I ended up going with the Ti style that @halboyles makes. It has worked out really nice.

 

Good luck!

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Mark.  Thanks for the info,  I was a little nervous about modifying the carbs, and I was wondering were that fitting on the back of the manifold attached to.  So it just attaches to the brake booster?  Anyway you can post a picture of your set up?

 

Did you not like the linkage?  I am having some trouble with the linkage bolt head hitting a boss on the carb right were is attaches to the carb.  See the last picture.  Weird.

 

Thanks

 

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29 minutes ago, Beantown said:

Mark.  Thanks for the info,  I was a little nervous about modifying the carbs, and I was wondering were that fitting on the back of the manifold attached to.  So it just attaches to the brake booster?  Anyway you can post a picture of your set up?

 

Did you not like the linkage?  I am having some trouble with the linkage bolt head hitting a boss on the carb right were is attaches to the carb.  See the last picture.  Weird.

 

Thanks

 

Here are a few pics of my setup. I have a Tii booster so the vacuum port is on the bottom of the booster. I just ran a very stiff piece of tubing (something that won't collapse under vacuum) to the booster. Looking at it now I probably could have made the curve OK without hitting the firewall, but it just seemed like an unnecessary length of tubing.

 

Once I started playing with the linkage I thought it was going to be really fiddly. Trying to mess with the turnbuckles to tune the carbs to each other seemed problematic and I wasn't comfortable that the arms were really going to lock onto the cross shaft since the cross shaft doesn't have any knurling. The Ti linkage just looks so much cleaner and there is only one simple screw to sync the carbs to each other.

 

I can't quite tell from your 4th picture where things are hitting. I did have to very slightly file down one of the linkage pieces from @halboyles Ti kit. Even with the idle set screw turned backed all the way out, the linkage was hitting the underside of the idle set screw boss. I probably only needed to take of 1/16" of material to remedy it since the idle screw only gets screwed in by 1/2 to maybe 1.5 turns to set the idle.

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Personally, I would bend the stud before I filed on the carb.

The carbs are quite precise, so I figure it makes more sense

to modify the part that isn't right.

A couple of nuts on the stud, then a Crescent (tm) adjustable wrench

in line with the stud itself, and you can adjust them quite easily.

 

t

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5 hours ago, TobyB said:

Personally, I would bend the stud before I filed on the carb.

The carbs are quite precise, so I figure it makes more sense

to modify the part that isn't right.

A couple of nuts on the stud, then a Crescent (tm) adjustable wrench

in line with the stud itself, and you can adjust them quite easily.

 

t

I thought about trying to bend the studs, but I got the IE ones which have the allen holes in the ends and they seemed quite brittle.

 

I used a rat tail file and didn't touch any of the material on the mating face of the carb. I only needed to remove a tiny bit of material on the outer bore of the hole through the carb flange. It is almost not noticeable and is totally covered by the wave washer I put under each nut - by a large amount.

 

There are always at least 3 solutions to every problem. 

 

Also, 25% of all statistics are totally made up.

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