Blue coil and resistor elimination

[Road trip]

Thanks for all the thoughtful replies

im going with the Blue = no resistor

[02sahara]

On 11/2/2020 at 10:03 PM, TodB said:

I run a blue coil with a 123 dizzy. I replaced the resistor wire with a regular piece of wire. The resistor wire is found inside the stock blue wire sleeve. You need to replace the wire that looks somewhat like a speaker wire. If you find the splice, you can disconnect it and run your replacement wire in the blue sleeve to the dist. Pretty simple. 

Is it necessary to replace it with a regular wire? I'm no electrician, but why not just leave it disconnected? Would that be possible? Thanks for confirmation anyone as I am about to install my 123 within the next days.

 

@TodB so the resistor wire does not begin at the ignition somewhere, but – for a more easy removal – somewhere within the blue rubber hose, ist that what you're saying?

['76mintgrün'02]

 

On my '76 there is a place in the blue sheath,(running along the firewall), where you can peel back the outer layer and find the crimped connection for the resistor wire.  It is under some cloth tape.  

 

 

 

I peeled that back and stripped the wire before it, so I could use a crimp connector to take full 12V power for the Pertronix red wire. 

 

 

I then ran another wire to the coil for the pertronix black wire inside the same sheath.

 

 

 

I would not cut the resistor wire out.  Just run a wire from that crimp down to the coil.  (I've gone back to points/condenser/resistor wire setup).

 

Tom

[02sahara]

43 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

On my '76 there is a place in the blue sheath,(running along the firewall), where you can peel back the outer layer and find the crimped connection for the resistor wire.  It is under some cloth tape.  

 

Thanks! That's great. Makes it definitely easier than I was thinking. Will try to find it.

 

 

Quote

I would not cut the resistor wire out.  Just run a wire from that crimp down to the coil.  (I've gone back to points/condenser/resistor wire setup).

I'm probably misunderstanding the car somewhere ... so let me post some more info:

 

This here are the 2 wires on the (15) connection. Yellowish one the resistor wire:

 

And if I look at the electrical wiring diagram I see that the single wire coming from the ignition switch gets split (this happens – as you showed – within the blue rubber hose):

 

So my ideas was to just uncrimp the resistor wire and I am good to go as the other wire still stays attached.

 

BUT, maybe I am wrong with understanding the diagram and it is not 2 separate wires (cause that's how it looks like), but in fact just one wire that turns into a single resistor wire (as it looks to me on your images). (Which would probably more logic electronic-wise as voltage would just use the less resistant wire and ignore the resistor wire if it would be a split/parallel.) Is that where I'm wrong?

 

And then ... if the resistor wire is the only wire coming from the ignition ... what's the black wire then at the same port (15)? Is that the dashed line running to the starter (25) ?

 

Marvin

['76mintgrün'02]

I think that other wire is the one that feeds full 12V when the starter is turning, in order to bypass the resistor wire and help it start easier.  That wire is only hot when the starter is turning, so you do need to run another wire to the coil, or it will cut out as soon as you let off the ignition switch.  (my understanding is very limited.  hopefully someone will correct me if I am wrong).

[John76]

The resistor wire is spliced to the green wire coming from the unfused side of the #12 fuse. It is one wire.

So, you can splice a regular wire to the green wire as Tom illustrated. The splice is in the larger blue sheath wire harness near the white electrovalve power connection. (see Tom's photo).

Connect the new spliced wire to the coil + (15) and the Pertronix or 123 Diz power wire (red).

You can leave the resistor wire connected to the coil #15 if desired. As you correctly said, the path of least resistance will be taken by the new wire....and you will have the resistor wire in case you need to revert back to a points/condenser type ignition.

To test your new connections, you should get +12V to the coil + (15) when the ignition is ON.  If you remove the new wire and the resistor wire is still connected to the coil, the voltage at the coil will  be around 9V.

On the coil - (1) you will have two black wires. The one in the small blue wire harness goes to the distributor/tach/diagnostic plug.

The black wire in the same larger blue harness (with the resistor wire and the black/red wire) goes to the Speed Relay box which controls the Dashpot on the Solex carb.  The Black/red wire goes to the #15 tab on the starter solenoid. This bypasses the resistor wire and sends +12V to the coil (instead of the 9V thru the resistor wire) only during cranking of the starter.

 

[02sahara]

Alright, got it!
The electrical wiring diagram is just confusing (2 wires in parallel if in fact it is just a single one).

 

And yes, I won't completely remove the resistor wire as for obvious reasons. Hope it's not to hard to pull a new wire through. Maybe some WD40 will help push it through, but I'll find a way.

 

Really really helpful your description John, thank you very much!

I'm still overwhelmed how helpful this forum is and everyone so kind and willing to help! 

[02sahara]

On 4/2/2022 at 8:39 PM, John76 said:

On the coil - (1) you will have two black wires. The one in the small blue wire harness goes to the distributor/tach/diagnostic plug.

 

Two questions:

 

1. With the 123, does it need to stay connected to the coil as before or should it be left unconnected?

 

2. What am I gonna do with the black wire originally attached to the dizzy-condenser?

 

I have my mind wrapped around to get the 3 wires from 123 run through the smaller blue rubber wire harness, but I would need to pull the single black wire out ... So if it needs to stay attached to the coil, I would need to find another way for having the wires wired nicely. That's why I'm asking.

 

@John76

[John76]

You can run a new wire in the larger of the two blue bundles from the solder point on the resistor cable near the center of the bulkhead.

OK to have both the resistor wire, the Black/red starter wire, AND the new wire from the solder point or directly from fuse block #12, #3, or #4 (unfused side of the block).  Splice the Red wire from the 123 to this new wire. 

Yes, keep the black wire(s) on the Coil - and connect to the Black wire on the 123.

Blue wire on the 123 is a ground.

[02sahara]

The larger of the bundles is already tightly filled with the new extended green wire from the ignition.

 

So maybe you got this wrong, I am talking about the blue red black wires from the new dizzy that I want to put somewhere nicely. Small blue bundle was my idea if I could get rid of the black wire already in there. But it has to stay connected to the coil as I understood. Will find another way ...

 

But what about the double wire for the condenser? What do I leave this connector?

[John76]

12 hours ago, awesomade said:

But what about the double wire for the condenser? What do I leave this connector?

The double black wire to the condenser: one black wire goes to the coil (-).  The other goes to the tach, and then to the #9 pin on the diagnostic plug under the hood (by the fuse box). KEEP THIS WIRE.  Instead of plugging into the condenser, simply plug it into the black wire from the 123 dizzy. That way, you can easily revert back to the points/condenser ignition if needed.

With all this talk about the marvels of ditching the points and condenser, I decided to try the PerTronix Ignitor II (No.  91847 V ).

I ran a new wire from a spare tab on the unfused side of fuse #3 to the distributor, and a new wire from the distributor to the coil (+), joined together with a connector.

I attached the red wire from the PerTronix to this connector to supply +12V ignition power.

The original black wires (in the stock connector) remain intact.  A new spade connector on the black wire from the PerTronix plugged into the existing stock connector. All I have to do to convert back to points/condenser is to unplug the new red wire from the coil (+) and plug in the stock black wires/connector to the condenser/points.  See attached pictures is this is confusing.

BTW...easy to fish a new wire into either the small or large blue sheathing. They each have several break points to allow easy access.

 

Edited April 14, 2022 by John76
Correction

[Dudeland]

In the FWIW department, I realised that I had a resistor wire installed when I looked in the app and only would see about 11.5v to the dizzy when running .