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74 tii intake plenum differences?


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I was planning on swapping on the other intake plenum I have while I get the original from my car vapor honed to clean off the corrosion. I was surprised to see that there are differences between the two - casting date for the original is 10/73, the other is 1/74. The difference is in the lack of connectors for the two hoses closest to the front of the car. As you can see in the picture the bosses (or whatever they're called) are there, they just aren't drilled or have the connector. 

Is the maybe a US versus Euro difference? To my eyes the rest of the plenum is the same. 

20201025_200637.jpg

Also, since I'm asking - anyone know what the deal is with this stopper-ish pin? (It's on both) 

20201025_201716.jpg

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21 hours ago, BarrettN said:


... As you can see in the picture the bosses (or whatever they're called) are there, they just aren't drilled or have the connector. Is this maybe a US versus Euro difference?

 

 

That would be my guess, Barrett. The forward boss, on U.S. cars, as I’m sure you know, gets a fitting for the vacuum limiter valve hose. Any evidence that that boss had been drilled and subsequently filled?

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

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74tii euro plenum from a rhd car

also the “pin” is for the linkage return spring, it goes from the pin to the throttle body shaft.

The shaft that runs up from the “cup” on the WUR to the Tuna can.

Terrible description but if you’ve had it apart you will know what I mean😜

15940003-7F55-459D-9566-58DA3771BF46.jpeg

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14 hours ago, BarrettN said:

while I get the original from my car vapor honed to clean off the corrosion.

 

IMHO, bead blasting is better for the aluminum bits.  A fine bead will give you the finish that came from the factory.  Add a clearcoat and it's a showroom finish.   Likely WAY cheaper than vapor blasting too.

Clearcoat1.jpg 

Definitely vapor blast your throttle body for that extra sheen.  Ultrasonic clean to remove any residual media.

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17 hours ago, SydneyTii said:

74tii euro plenum from a rhd car

also the “pin” is for the linkage return spring, it goes from the pin to the throttle body shaft.

The shaft that runs up from the “cup” on the WUR to the Tuna can.

Terrible description but if you’ve had it apart you will know what I mean😜

15940003-7F55-459D-9566-58DA3771BF46.jpeg

That clearly seems to be the answer - well, I bought the whole injection assembly for the value of the injectors and throttle body, so I don't have anything to kick about.

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7 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

IMHO, bead blasting is better for the aluminum bits.  A fine bead will give you the finish that came from the factory.  Add a clearcoat and it's a showroom finish.   Likely WAY cheaper than vapor blasting too.

Clearcoat1.jpg

Definitely vapor blast your throttle body for that extra sheen.  Ultrasonic clean to remove any residual media.

When I eventually pull my engine for its rebuild I will go down this route, I just scrubbed the plenum and tubes with wire wool and pre paint prep a bit, and wiped it down with Penetrol, I just wanted to stop the aluminium from getting the white oxidation, it looks ok in the flesh so to speak, still some grime in the pores,  but obviously not coming off easily as I used a fair bit of the Eastwood’s pre paint cleaner!

A bead blast and clear coat when I do mine.

yours looks lovely Paul.

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