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Liesl phase 2: Suspension and Underbody


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Hi all - I just did the same thing - and saw mention of the bushings being a PITA.  My pitman arm puller worked like a champ in pushing out the two smaller diameter A arm bushings.  I had to put a socket in-between the bushing and the puller - to increase the throw but it worked like a champ - out in a few minutes.   

5D6524DF-3795-470C-B674-0BEF133524A1_1_105_c.jpeg

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@Marksterreminded me of my conundrum when I did mine.  Someone had mentioned an aluminum tube and threaded rod.  I thought about that, and gathered stuff around my garage to make it work.  A short len

Good to know, Paul! Will go with the existing pads as a start per Tommy suggestion   Spacers? You mean these trivets?? ...and as It turns out, that Ceylon sticker is accurate!

After a successful engine rebuild and 5speed swap last winter, moving to phase 2: complete suspension refresh, underbody, and the associated scope creep.    Will use this thread to track the sl

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@Marksterreminded me of my conundrum when I did mine.  Someone had mentioned an aluminum tube and threaded rod.  I thought about that, and gathered stuff around my garage to make it work.  A short length of aluminum tube, some threaded rod, nuts and large washers, to pull the bushings through (and into) the flange.  It worked well.

BUSHING TOOL4sml.jpg

I really like the pitman tool, but if you don't have one...

 

 

 

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17 minutes ago, thinksound_mike said:

If you don't mind the smell, use a propane/butane torch and burn them out. The rubber burns away and then you can push them right out with no struggle. I fought with mine for a while and then finally went with a torch. Super simple. Just stinks like burned rubber.

Absolutely. Works like a charm!

May want to do them outdoors however.

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On ‎10‎/‎23‎/‎2020 at 3:35 PM, mvliotta said:

Good luck with the motor refresh, Tom! I wish I had tackled the engine bay while my motor was out, but just couldn’t get to it because of time constraints. 

Thanks if I have time I will tackle it the main reason for the motor pull is to do the driver side frame rail,  then motor, and get her back in before the season starts along with a pedal box rebuild and a few other "while im in there" items We'll see what time allows for

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Tackled the front subframe over the last couple of evenings.

 

Although I hate buying one-time tools, getting the HF engine support system was a very well-spent $63. 
 

DF8F8CA7-E487-4EB0-8619-E06029A06B11.jpeg
Freeing up the steering coupling was easier than expected, probably due to my VERY leaky steering box providing years of lubrication. 
 

...and without much fuss, down went the front subframe (& up went the car)
 

7D7F0AA3-04F5-4250-B1FB-CAD8A2E55DB8.jpeg

Will take apart the front subframe over the next week or so and collect items for sandblasting. 

 

Vince

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8 minutes ago, mvliotta said:

Tackled the front subframe over the last couple of evenings.

 

Although I hate buying one-time tools, getting the HF engine support system was a very well-spent $63. 
 

DF8F8CA7-E487-4EB0-8619-E06029A06B11.jpeg
Freeing up the steering coupling was easier than expected, probably due to my VERY leaky steering box providing years of lubrication. 
 

...and without much fuss, down went the front subframe (& up went the car)
 

7D7F0AA3-04F5-4250-B1FB-CAD8A2E55DB8.jpeg

Will take apart the front subframe over the next week or so and collect items for sandblasting. 

 

Vince

I certainly hope you're going to do a complete upgrade on that suspension Vince, including new sway bars, springs and shocks along with all new bushings etc. I understand the Bilsteins are a challenge to find lately but maybe Konis can be sub'd. Steve from Blunt advised me and I absolutely LOVE the way my car handles. So neutral, so communicative, so tight. Poly was only used on the sway bar mounts and rear carrier bushing inserts.

Keep going bud! Hope you have your Torque Spec sheet handy!

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Yo Nick!

 

ok, let’s talk suspension. Think I’m doing basically same thing that you and others have done.  


Planning on...

- Blunt’s all rubber suspension kit incl center link and tie rods. 
- Poly inserts on carrier bushings

- ST sway bars with poly bushings 

- existing Billstein HDs in rear (relatively new)

- not sure what’s up front, but probably Billstein HDs

- H&R sport springs

 

One question I have is what is a good choice for rear spring pads? 1 dot, 2 dot? Very confusing..

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1 hour ago, mvliotta said:

Yo Nick!

 

ok, let’s talk suspension. Think I’m doing basically same thing that you and others have done.  


Planning on...

- Blunt’s all rubber suspension kit incl center link and tie rods. 
- Poly inserts on carrier bushings

- ST sway bars with poly bushings 

- existing Billstein HDs in rear (relatively new)

- not sure what’s up front, but probably Billstein HDs

- H&R sport springs

 

One question I have is what is a good choice for rear spring pads? 1 dot, 2 dot? Very confusing..

This is the exact setup I have. Not really having a history of driving my car beforehand, I'm excited for you to experience the transformation!

I'm at a loss to advise you on spring pads. I just used my old ones.

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13 hours ago, NYNick said:

This is the exact setup I have. Not really having a history of driving my car beforehand, I'm excited for you to experience the transformation!

I'm at a loss to advise you on spring pads. I just used my old ones.

I just took another look at your engine bay Vince. Get rid of those stupid spacers too!

64D94E58-67E2-415D-A749-8874B40D03F4.jpeg

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5 hours ago, pjp90 said:

 

I did not take a lot of parts with me when I moved.  But I think I do have a box full of spring pads.

 

Good to know, Paul! Will go with the existing pads as a start per Tommy suggestion

 

3 hours ago, NYNick said:

just took another look at your engine bay Vince. Get rid of those stupid spacers too!


Spacers? You mean these trivets??

C1A71E34-ED00-4C8C-B9DE-69B10F69FB8B.jpeg

...and as It turns out, that Ceylon sticker is accurate!

 

83B4F48F-3A06-4DFB-BE82-09A0428C2F7C.jpeg
Will have to live with this ‘look’ until phase 3,  ‘re-Ceylon-ification’, as @Conserv has called it!

 

BTW, nice-looking engine bay, Nick!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been spending a couple of hours here and there tearing down suspension, sending out parts for sand-blasting and considering scope. 
 

Let’s start with the underside...

A604AFBC-2D7D-4B29-9A18-6747548DB8BC.jpeg
A mix of shutz, dirt, grime and surface rust. Luckily nothing serious. Not sure to what extent I’m going to clean up underside. Some here have gone with the approach of going down to metal and brushing underside with body color, which is both appealing and daunting at the same time. If i’d take that route, I would take the plunge and do it in Ceylon. Would do this in anticipation of going back to the original color (hopefully next year) even though the car is currently silver. Regardless, not looking forward to this part of the project. 
 

Also, with a long winter ahead and not much planned, I’ve decided to increase scope to address fuel pump, pedal box, master/slave brake components, etc., etc.. Might even think about brushing part of hard-to-reach engine bay and replace insulation....we’ll see.

 

The good news is that the suspension parts I sent out for blasting and epoxy priming came back looking great! Plan to paint these up with Eastwood chassis paint and slosh some POR15 around in the boxed trailing arms


84A5FC58-50B7-42B1-A305-6708E581104E.jpeg
More on suspension considerations later...

 

Vince

 

 

 

 

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