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Rely acquire 2002, no top speed.


Littleeagle28

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^ Agreed. Pull the fuel sender out of the tank and check out the mesh filter and also look around the inside of the tank with a flash light and see what condition the fuel tank is in and if there is stuff floating around in the tank.

1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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20 hours ago, Littleeagle28 said:

Replaced fuel filter and lines.

 

Did you check/clean the little screen filter inside the nose of the carburetor?

It is behind that 19mm brass cap behind the inlet nipple.

 

Here's how to remove the float needle valve seat and fuel filter on a Weber 32/36 DGV, DGAV, DGEV, DFV, DFEV, DFAV carburetor.

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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20 hours ago, Littleeagle28 said:

I removed carb and blasted carb cleaner and air through it

 

Did you disassemble it and remove all of the jets/air correctors/emulsion tubes/etc. and blast carb cleaner through the passageways?  

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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1 hour ago, Littleeagle28 said:

Car is back in the garage for the automatic gearbox. 

 

The automatic equipped cars (yes?) have different timing curves than manual cars.

 

European cars are different than U.S. cars.

 

So, look in the specification sheets to find your distributor. (there were 4) The advance curves are both in the graphic and the specifications. Pay attention to the footnotes!

 

The easiest way to find out if your unit is good is to take  it to a shop that has a machine to measure such things. Otherwise you then need to use a timing light (one with advance built in is best) and check your timing at each of the specification intervals to see if your unit follows the specification.

 

There might be a tutorial here on the FAQ, look at a manual if you have one, (you do have one right?) or perhaps the shop that is installing your transmission can do it for you, as you don't need to drive the car to do it.img260.jpg.img261.jpg

img263.jpg

HTH

img262.jpg

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32 minutes ago, Einspritz said:

 

The automatic equipped cars (yes?) have different timing curves than manual cars.

 

European cars are different than U.S. cars.

 

So, look in the specification sheets to find your distributor. (there were 4) The advance curves are both in the graphic and the specifications. Pay attention to the footnotes!

 

The easiest way to find out if your unit is good is to take  it to a shop that has a machine to measure such things. Otherwise you then need to use a timing light (one with advance built in is best) and check your timing at each of the specification intervals to see if your unit follows the specification.

 

There might be a tutorial here on the FAQ, look at a manual if you have one, (you do have one right?) or perhaps the shop that is installing your transmission can do it for you, as you don't need to drive the car to do it.img260.jpg.img261.jpg

img263.jpg

HTH

img262.jpg

 

Thank you, yes I have a manual.

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  • 1 year later...

Based on yesterday's post, you're still having trouble at top speed.

 

 

Since this thread has many prior suggestions, I'll continue this discussion here.

 

New fuel lines from the tank to the carb?  Plastic spacer on the fuel sender nipple in the trunk?  Clean sender screen?  Clean filter at carb inlet?

 

How big is the gap in your spark plugs?  .024 is the recommended setting, with .028" listed as the maximum gap.  If the gap is too big, the spark will be weak.  Do you have Resistor style plugs?  Too much resistance in the system makes for a weak spark too.

 

A variable advance timing light would allow you to witness what the distributor is doing.  They're a little expensive ($125 online), but well worth the money.  

 

Do you have points inside your distributor?  If so, do you have a dwell meter?  (Innova 5568 does).

 

Photos are often helpful and usually appreciated.

 

(I think we need more input from you, in order to continue this conversation).


Tom

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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