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motor install - assembled or not?


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I have the motor back from the machine shop.  While the engine was gone I cleaned up the compartment. I did remove the brake booster/master combo. My car has an automatic.

Question:  Is it easier to install the engine without the manifolds, accessories etc...? I have not installed the distributor or housing either. I was going to re-install the brake components but not sure if it will make it easier or if it's going to be a pita to re-install the booster and bracket when the engine is in... I did not drop the suspension so I'm going to drop from above.

 

Also, should I forego the fan for an electric unit? what about the shroud?

 

Any other advice?

 

Thank you in advance

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Install the housing, but not the distributor.

It's not hard to install anything else after you drop the engine in, but

the exhaust manifold can be a bit fiddley.  On the other hand, it's relatively

easy to scratch paint with it, so I usually leave it off.

 

Also, I leave the front pulley off, as that extra bit of room never hurts, and it's easier

to torque the nut with it in the car.  It's a habit I picked up with E30s, which have a 2million foot- pound bolt...

 

hth

 

t

 

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Put the booster and pedal assembly in first, way way easier.    I would put just the intake on, as suggested, leave the ex manifold to later

I would leave the fan on but I like to add an extra electric fan up frt with a thermo switch so it only comes on when really needed   Leaving the frt pulley off is a very good idea as it usually catches on the frt sway bar or very bottom of the apron 

 

Make sure that you use only the smaller 12 mm wrench size 8mm nuts for the intake, at some point later on in life, you will see why

 

Thanks, Rick

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it's a one man job, however with another person there, it's best when guiding the motor in so as not to scratch and dent stuff.  

do install the exhaust mani out of convenience.  

 

A little trick I do once the block is resting on the pass side mount is to insert a long shouldered bolt & nut in the two holes. That way it keeps the engine aligned when using a lifting device ( such as a floor jack) to angle the motor properly with the trans tunnel.  Also use long 17mm bolts in the two lower mounts as rails when installing/mating the trans.   

 

but what do I know. 

Edited by conkitchen
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