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What are your front subframe install tips?


dasfrogger

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I'm in the process of reinstalling the front subframe and its not going according to plan. What 'pro tips' do you have for getting this bastard bolted in?

 

Some Background:

  • Car is a 76, subframe is a '73, and was rebuilt >10k miles/5yrs ago
  • Subframe now holds a m20
  • I pulled the subframe last year and had similar trouble reattaching it to the 73 after i pulled the engine. Even when i could see the bolt holes clearly, i couldn't get a bolt to bite. Also had trouble getting all holes lined up at the same time.
  • Ended up solving that problem by fabricating guide pins out of 2.5" bolts. Using those, got it on no problem.
  • Unfortunately for me, the guide pins are binding this go round. not sure if they're just bent a little, or if the additional weight of an engine installed is causing the trouble. I've removed the guide pins, and can get the driver side side lined up pretty good, but have been unable to get a bolt started at all.
  • i'm struggling with getting both sides lined up, front to back and side to side. the engine/subframe combo is sitting on a Harbor freight 1k# hydraulic table and the car is on a two post lift. Its a pretty ideal situation, but still causing headaches

 

I've been around these cars for awhile, and have successfully installed a couple rebuilt subframes, but these last two attempts have me pulling out my hair. So, What should i do to get this thing in? What are your pro tips and best practices?

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It's probable that one of the 2 cars was hit in the front, it only takes a tiny bit to keep the subframe from lining up, In a case like this a small harbor freight porta-power can be used to push the frame rails into a better position, usually if you can get the front 2 and the rear 2 started the center will fall in line, when you start the bolts make sure you get 3-4 turns in by hand to make sure you don't get one cross threaded because that's hard to fix. 

 

PS your pin technique is a good idea maybe you can use it along with the porta-power.

Edited by Son of Marty

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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11 minutes ago, Mike G said:

I start the bolts as soon as they reach, while there’s still and inch or two of clearance between the subframe and frame rails. It seems easier than starting them once the subframe is up tight to the rails. 

 

That makes an incredible amount of sense, I can't believe I didn't think of it. Amazing how tunnel vision'd you can get on a project/problem.

35 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

It's probable that one of the 2 cars was hit in the front, it only takes a tiny bit to keep the subframe from lining up, ...

 

@tinkwithanr also suggested measuring the subframe against the old one for a similar reason. To my knowledge neither car has been hit - but you never know with old cars. hoping everything is good to go there.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Mike G said:

I start the bolts as soon as they reach, while there’s still and inch or two of clearance between the subframe and frame rails. It seems easier than starting them once the subframe is up tight to the rails. 

This is the correct way to do it.

2xM3

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Run a thread cleaning chaser tap into the frame rails before starting the bolts. BTDT

 

If the subframe is pre-assembled before installing, make sure the tie rods and center link are assembled correctly. If wrong, they will create havoc when trying to line up the subframe to the frame rails. BTDT

 

If you can afford to do so, purchase all new mounting hardware - like the kits available from Walloth Nesch.  

  • Like 1

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Thanks everyone, got it in using the above method. It also helped a lot to have the struts in place and bolted down loosely - which for whatever reason I didn’t do before. 
 

good news, engine and subframe are bolted In! Thanks y’all!

 

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