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sound deadening question


Scottjeffrey

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1 hour ago, Scottjeffrey said:

The floorboards have the original factory gook in great shape.

In the front, have you looked into the trough stamped in the sheet metal that runs from the throttle pedal towards the big plug further back?  That's were any water goes under the sound deadening material and rusts the floor.  Here is my floor with the OEM sturr removed, I had no issues.

2015 BMW Sound Dedening 07.JPG

2015 BMW Sound Dedening 08.JPG

Edited by jimk
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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

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I'm with Jim I wouldn't leave the tar in a almost 50year old car for the reasons that he stated the material doesn't seal tight to the floor an any water  or coolant that gets under it will start to rust, your better off addressing it with a little sanding and por 15 than replacing the floor boards in a few years, others will disagree as for using dynomat or it's like under why not ask Esty how it will effect the fit. 

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1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

I wouldn't leave the tar in a almost 50 year old car

For a lot of reasons, not the least of which it is that it has been absorbing odiferous, malevelont chemicals throughout that period.  Just removing it cleans up your cabin atmosphere and makes it much easier to smell the gasoline and exhaust fumes coming from the trunk!

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I used some feather light sound deadening stuff called formshield I didnt realise just how good it was until I removed it to clean the carpets and floors.

it really absorbs all the vibrations etc and is feather light. I just cut to size and laid it underneath the carpet which is also insulated with underlay, I didn't want to stick anything down  again after painting my floors.

My pedals hang and don't come out of the floor like US cars, so thickness isn't such an issue.

Edited by SydneyTii
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2 hours ago, dirving said:

I removed the factory stuff with dry ice and orange hammer blows. Easy. Then mass loaded vinyl sheeting over the tunnel and floors. Heavy but worth it to me. Maybe 70 lbs or so including trunk floor. Esty carpet on top. No problem.

I removed the stuff the same way. I laid the MLV on the floors and only glued it on the vertical surfaces. I want o be able to lift it up and look under there in the future to see if water is pooling for any reason.

ADD8D1EF-F320-40FF-9FF7-5EAFF2913C4F.jpeg

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1974 2002 Tii-SOLD

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You’ll never know how much rust you have till you take all the old insulation out.  A surprising amount of water collects over the years around the heater box, pedal box and floor plugs.  Dry ice is best way to break up the old stuff.  Sometimes helps to use cardboard or styrofoam baffles to hold the mush in place on vertical surfaces like trans tunnel.  No metal implements needed (and why brook more rust by compromising paint where it’s still good?).  You’ll go through a few plastic putty knives, but it all pops off eventually.  Residue removal using acetone and soft brushes/cloths.  POR self-etching primer/POR-15 to reseal the surface.  

 

Remove and treat the floor plugs, which I assure you are not sealing even if they appear tight.  Then replace them using plenty of seam sealer or other suitable sealer.  

 

Remove and re-seal the heater box — in fact, I suggest you rebuild it or have Hami Pramono do so.  If you have AC, you never want to have to service the heater box.  Not hard to get out and out if you have the console out.

 

I looked at a lot of products for vibration dampening. Settled on SecondSkin, which is high quality, easy to apply, won’t smell or fume.  It’s basically the same as dynamat, adhesive/rubber/foil, but a touch less expensive.  For the serious soundproofing layer I used SS’s deluxe butyl layer, over 1/2” thick, and heavy.   I cut and taped together and laid down a single sheet on the floor on each side of the tunnel, from under the dash to the rear seat.  Then taped together pieces (it does best if it’s contiguous) to cover the rear floor/trunk surfaces.  Laid loose strips in the bottoms of the doors and rear quarter panels to pick up sound there.  The greatest thing: didn’t have to use any glue or other adhesive, and the thick layer will not bunch up under the carpet.  When I need to get under it I can just lift the carpet and then the butyl layer.  And it EATS sound.

 

Everywhere else: trans tunnel, quarterpanel walls, inner door skins, I used Siless 1/8” closed cell foam, making sure to leave weep holes at places like trim and ensuring no water catchments exist at top edges (the adhesive is good, but it’s tough to stick it down in some of the recesses).  I doubled it in some places, but left a single layer on the trans tunnel and Esty’s beautiful #405 carpet fit over it like a glove.  Between the SS dampener, the Siless foam and the SS butyl layer, with the Koogle underdash panels in place the car is pretty quiet.  Mind you, have not tried my hands-free phone yet.

 

 

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‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

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6 hours ago, 0257 said:

You’ll never know how much rust you have till you take all the old insulation out.  A surprising amount of water collects over the years around the heater box, pedal box and floor plugs.  Dry ice is best way to break up the old stuff.  Sometimes helps to use cardboard or styrofoam baffles to hold the mush in place on vertical surfaces like trans tunnel.  No metal implements needed (and why brook more rust by compromising paint where it’s still good?).  You’ll go through a few plastic putty knives, but it all pops off eventually.  Residue removal using acetone and soft brushes/cloths.  POR self-etching primer/POR-15 to reseal the surface.  

 

Remove and treat the floor plugs, which I assure you are not sealing even if they appear tight.  Then replace them using plenty of seam sealer or other suitable sealer.  

 

Remove and re-seal the heater box — in fact, I suggest you rebuild it or have Hami Pramono do so.  If you have AC, you never want to have to service the heater box.  Not hard to get out and out if you have the console out.

 

I looked at a lot of products for vibration dampening. Settled on SecondSkin, which is high quality, easy to apply, won’t smell or fume.  It’s basically the same as dynamat, adhesive/rubber/foil, but a touch less expensive.  For the serious soundproofing layer I used SS’s deluxe butyl layer, over 1/2” thick, and heavy.   I cut and taped together and laid down a single sheet on the floor on each side of the tunnel, from under the dash to the rear seat.  Then taped together pieces (it does best if it’s contiguous) to cover the rear floor/trunk surfaces.  Laid loose strips in the bottoms of the doors and rear quarter panels to pick up sound there.  The greatest thing: didn’t have to use any glue or other adhesive, and the thick layer will not bunch up under the carpet.  When I need to get under it I can just lift the carpet and then the butyl layer.  And it EATS sound.

 

Everywhere else: trans tunnel, quarterpanel walls, inner door skins, I used Siless 1/8” closed cell foam, making sure to leave weep holes at places like trim and ensuring no water catchments exist at top edges (the adhesive is good, but it’s tough to stick it down in some of the recesses).  I doubled it in some places, but left a single layer on the trans tunnel and Esty’s beautiful #405 carpet fit over it like a glove.  Between the SS dampener, the Siless foam and the SS butyl layer, with the Koogle underdash panels in place the car is pretty quiet.  Mind you, have not tried my hands-free phone yet.

 

 

Don’t know why I said butyl — too much roof and window work at the house lately?  I used SS’s Luxury Liner Pro mass loaded vinyl/foam for the floorboards.  

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‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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