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The Kangaroo Man

Clutch Slipping?

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Finally got the 2002 up and running after the M20 swap. More specifically, driving! I'm pumped. Still a lot to do, but 6 months of work and I can now move the car without pushing. 

 

Anyways, turns out the engine is running really well. So went to give it some beans and got some (what I believe to be) clutch slippage and a smell that definitely smells like a bit of clutch. How do you know that the clutch is slipping? Great question! 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear under heavy throttle and the engine jumps to 4-5k but constant speed. 

 

I've got a 1987 M20b25 with the matching Getrag 260 that came with the parts car in a 1976 '02. Both engine and trans are stock. Didn't touch the flywheel or clutch while I was assembling the engine. The clutch plate itself looked OK when I inspected it. So I don't think that the clutch would be worn out after seeing just over 125k miles in another car. Maybe though?

 

Would this be due to the clutch going bad, poor bleeding in the new clutch lines, wrongly adjusted 2002 clutch pedal or something completely different? Perhaps the clutch pedal in the 2002 is a longer lever than the getrag 260's clutch pressure arm and when the clutch pedal is completely released, the pressure arm isn't and thus still engaging the clutch a little?

 

I dunno. Would appreciate some input on this as one of these previous guesses could mean a simple bleeding job and another could mean a complete transmission drop (which in an E30 is one thing, but in a 2002 is bit trickier).

 

Thanks!

Edited by The Kangaroo Man

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Easy way to tell if your clutch is on its way out (the door to the scrap pile):  put the car in 4th or 5th gear with it stopped, engine running.  Without touching the gas, let the clutch out normally.  If the engine immediately stalls, the clutch is (probably) OK.  If the engine bogs down (or worse, continues to run!) then the clutch is slipping.  It could be slipping because

  1. it's worn out
  2. it has oil on it--leaking crankshaft main seal or tranny input shaft seal
  3. the pressure plate has lost its tension from heat, age or wear
  4. the hydraulic system isn't allowing the throwout bearing to fully disengage, causing the pressure plate to stand slightly away from the clutch disk.  

mike

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2 hours ago, The Kangaroo Man said:

What do you mean "bottoming the slave cylinder"?

If you are using the original clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and slave cylinder with the 260 trans you should be ok.  If you changed the TOB or any other part you might not have any free play between the TOB pressure plate ( yes I know the TOB is always in contact with the PP but you need to make sure the slave is not depressing the PP fingers when you are off the clutch pedal) 

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Update: I re-bled the clutch and adjusted the master cylinder rod down by the clutch pedal (both shortening it a lot and lengthening it equally so). The clutch is still slipping. 

 

Could this be a master cylinder problem? Perhaps the cylinder isn't returning immediately as there's some resistance to it returning. As of now it's looking like a new clutch. 

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20 minutes ago, The Kangaroo Man said:

Could this be a master cylinder problem? Perhaps the cylinder isn't returning immediately as there's some resistance to it returning. As of now it's looking like a new clutch. 

see above recommendations

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If you think it is a master cylinder not returning all the way you can check it by jus opening the bleed screw on the slave.  If you release pressure you have a master cyl problem, if it just drips you don’t.  I’m guessing you have a clutch problem. I never remove a gearbox without replacing at least the disc unless I know for sure how old it is.  Just putting your used engine/trans/clutch in was taking a huge risk, it looks like it didn’t pay off this time. 

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