Window mechanism reassembly

[Martenmeyer]

Hey everyone,

I recently got my car back from paint and have started the process of putting everything back together. I thought i took enough pictures but these parts got me a little confused. Can anyone do me a huge favor and send me a picture of how these are installed? Thanks for the help so far ?

[Mike Self]

I'm sorry that I don't have a picture, but the two steel brackets in your first two pictures are the stops that prevent the window from being raised too high, so that it hits the roof and shatters when you close the door.  I'm sure someone will post a picture--or look on REALOEM.com for an exploded diagram.  Both parts are adjustable, so you want to make sure that they do in fact stop the glass high enough so it seals properly along its upper edge, but not so high it hits the rain gutter.  

 

The diecast pieces in you last picture:  didja find 'em loose at the bottom of the door?  They look like broken pieces of an old door check strap.  That, and the crank mechanism for the vent windows are the only pot metal parts inside the door, other than a few internal pieces on the window lift mechanism--and those aren't part of that. 

 

mike

[calw]

I just did this... well, at least the parts are in the door.  Adjustment seems to be a longer process...  Do look in RealOEM, and you will find the details reasonably well depicted.  Both of the parts are called "stoppers" by BMW.  The bit on the left (p/n 51326454330) bolts to the steel "u" channel at the bottom of the window which meets the arm from the regulator, closer to the front of the door.  You have it right side up in the photo.  The bit on the right (p/n 51326454326) goes at the bottom of the rear end of the window, with the short tab facing inward and horizontal.  both that tab and the one on the front part hit a bit of sheet metal protruding toward the outside from the inner panel of the door to stop upward travel of the window, as Mike stated.  

 

51326454169 "Distance Rubber"  and 51327041760 "Bush" are important also.  They make up part of the sandwich at the bottom of the front of the glass.  The rubber part surrounds the glass, and the two bushes surround the M6 bolts as they go thru the holes at the rear bottom of the glass.  Get those parts together wrong, and tighten the bolt too hard, and you will need to sweep up broken glass.

 

A bit of thick duct tape covering those two sheet metal tabs on the inner panel of the door will help prevent scratched glass as you put the window in the door.  A helper will help prevent your throwing the window across the garage out of frustration.

 

I have no suggestions for adjustment except having a good supply of kaltes bier on hand.

[Mike Self]

3 minutes ago, calw said:

I have no suggestions for adjustment except having a good supply of kaltes bier on hand.

When you get ready to do the actual adjustment of the glass so that it fits and seals properly, PM me.  I did a column or two about the procedure and will be happy to send you a copy.

 

mike

[Martenmeyer]

7 hours ago, Mike Self said:

I'm sorry that I don't have a picture, but the two steel brackets in your first two pictures are the stops that prevent the window from being raised too high, so that it hits the roof and shatters when you close the door.  I'm sure someone will post a picture--or look on REALOEM.com for an exploded diagram.  Both parts are adjustable, so you want to make sure that they do in fact stop the glass high enough so it seals properly along its upper edge, but not so high it hits the rain gutter.  

 

The diecast pieces in you last picture:  didja find 'em loose at the bottom of the door?  They look like broken pieces of an old door check strap.  That, and the crank mechanism for the vent windows are the only pot metal parts inside the door, other than a few internal pieces on the window lift mechanism--and those aren't part of that. 

 

mike

 

38 minutes ago, calw said:

I just did this... well, at least the parts are in the door.  Adjustment seems to be a longer process...  Do look in RealOEM, and you will find the details reasonably well depicted.  Both of the parts are called "stoppers" by BMW.  The bit on the left (p/n 51326454330) bolts to the steel "u" channel at the bottom of the window which meets the arm from the regulator, closer to the front of the door.  You have it right side up in the photo.  The bit on the right (p/n 51326454326) goes at the bottom of the rear end of the window, with the short tab facing inward and horizontal.  both that tab and the one on the front part hit a bit of sheet metal protruding toward the outside from the inner panel of the door to stop upward travel of the window, as Mike stated.  

 

51326454169 "Distance Rubber"  and 51327041760 "Bush" are important also.  They make up part of the sandwich at the bottom of the front of the glass.  The rubber part surrounds the glass, and the two bushes surround the M6 bolts as they go thru the holes at the rear bottom of the glass.  Get those parts together wrong, and tighten the bolt too hard, and you will need to sweep up broken glass.

 

A bit of thick duct tape covering those two sheet metal tabs on the inner panel of the door will help prevent scratched glass as you put the window in the door.  A helper will help prevent your throwing the window across the garage out of frustration.

 

I have no suggestions for adjustment except having a good supply of kaltes bier on hand.

Thank you guys very much for your suggestions! Any idea where the other broken part could possibly belong?

[calw]

The only die cast parts in my doors are the door check units- they control the open/closed motion of the doors at the front hinge end.  If it's in two pieces, try holding them back together to see if the mounting holes match the holes in the front edge of the doors. 

 

They're notorious as expensive to buy and often broken on older cars.  Without one, your door will glide open smoothly until the leading edge is damaged against the body of the car.

[Martenmeyer]

6 hours ago, calw said:

The only die cast parts in my doors are the door check units- they control the open/closed motion of the doors at the front hinge end.  If it's in two pieces, try holding them back together to see if the mounting holes match the holes in the front edge of the doors. 

 

They're notorious as expensive to buy and often broken on older cars.  Without one, your door will glide open smoothly until the leading edge is damaged against the body of the car.

Thank you. Will check on this