Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

What’s the downside of being cool?


mvliotta

Recommended Posts

now that I have your attention..?
 

Thinking of replacing my 71deg thermostat with something higher after replacing my radiator to the high efficiency W&N rad. 
 

These days, temp needle does not get above 3:30 even when pretty warm

Outside and most of the time is around 4:00. 

Is this a problem? What’s the benefit of running the engine at the ‘preferred’ 3:00 position?

 

Vince

 

'72 2002tii 'Liesl'

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

It's a burden at times but I get used to it....?

 

Ha!  I would never know!  Plenty cool in my own mind, but I doubt anyone but my dog would agree.

 

On topic though, the whole thing is designed to run at temperature T, whatever that is.  Assuming all the wires in your car are good enough to work properly, and everything else electrical is good, then the 3 o'clock position would be about right?  They're cheap- try it, see if you like it.  (All the real reasons, but I'm a little tired and hungry, so off to dinner- in my very uncool rat looking 2002.  With the dog.)

  • Like 1

Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your radiator keeps the coolant cool, not the thermostat.  Your existing radiator is working fine.  Radiators get rid of more heat when the coolant that is sent to them is hotter.  The greater the differential temperature between the coolant and the air, the greater the heat transfer (Heat Transfer 101).  A higher temperature thermostat will make the radiator do a better job.

  • Like 2

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes a cool engine won't burn your fuel load as efficiently leaving more carbon in the combustion chambers and diluting the oil and not having enough heat to evaporate the condensation out of the oil and exhaust system all for no gain.   

  • Thanks 1

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Correct me if I am wrong: Because others have blasted me for thinking a lower thermostat temp will keep the car running cooler. 

 

Is that the thermostat temp is when the thermostat opens and starts using the radiator.   It doesn't necessarily keep the engine running cooler it just starts the process earlier than one at a higher temp. 

The efficiency of the radiator is key. It sort of doesn't really matter when the thermostat kicks in, it will start earlier with a lower temp thermostat, but after that it is up to the radiator to do the job. 

 

But please correct me if I am wrong.....

  • Like 1

Loose: Not tightly bound. Subject to motion.
Lose: What happens when you are spell check dependent.

 

1975 Malaga. It is rusty but runs. Just like me. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

Is that the thermostat temp is when the thermostat opens and starts using the radiator.

Yes, exactly, but then it also CLOSES again as things drop back down to/below that temperature, so really what happens after a while is you reach a steady-state condition where the thermostat is partially open, maybe opening a bit more to allow more flow through the radiator when going uphill (and the coolant leaving the block gets hotter), then closing down a bit more and diverting most coolant back to the block and only a *little* to the radiator when going back down the hill. Which is why at the end of the day, it's job is to keep your engine with reasonable consistency at THAT specified inlet temperature.  The coolant temperature leaving the block will vary (based on load) and yes, whatever excess heat comes from the engine coolant that goes through the open thermostat then gets rejected through the radiator. So you pick the thermostat based on what inlet temperature you want your engine to run at (I personally like 80-85C or so) and then make sure your radiator is good enough to get rid of that excess heat, say 90C that's comes out with that hard uphill work, and get it back down to your target 80C to go back in to do it's cooling job again.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

More or less. There could be situations where the ambient temp is cool enough to allow the system to run at the thermostat temp (71 degrees). This is not good, if you believe the factory spec is 80 degrees (C, of course). The factory spec is designed to let your motor operate at optimum for a number of parameters (unless done purely for smog reduction purposes- who knows?). The thing I worry about the most with these lower temp thermostats is whether the oil is reaching the correct operating temp, which can have a significant affect on your motor's efficiency and wear/tear (friction and all that). 

 

Here is a great article on this. 

 

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/#:~:text=The thermostat basically behaves like,and out of the engine

  • Thanks 1

Chris B.

'73 ex-Malaga

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These water temp gauges are not very accuarate,  When mines pointing to bottom of red zone on gauge radiator is at 190F  Block even cooler. It depends on how good of ground on the gauge and water temp sensor. Break out an Infared and check where your really at when gauge is pointing 3 oclock

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, rcf925 said:

Break out an Infared and check where your really at when gauge is pointing 3 oclock

If the infra-red gun is accurate?  Flip a coin as to which is inaccurate, the gauge or the gun.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, rcf925 said:

These water temp gauges are not very accuarate,  When mines pointing to bottom of red zone on gauge radiator is at 190F

That's. . . interesting.  In my experience most 2002 temperature gauges are actually quite accurate, but I agree your reading sounds pretty far off.  The center (3 o'clock/horizontal) position should be right about 90C, which is pretty close to your 190F.  Red zone shouldn't start until 115C/240F!  My general rule of thumb is anywhere between 1 and 4 o'clock is OK, but I don't like to see the needle go outside of that range.  I get exact temperature reported from a second calibrated temperature sensor in the coolant divider via Megasquirt, so my gauge agrees with that quite well, so I KNOW it's all peachy.  Are you sure you have the *correct* sensor in there? Any grounds or corroded connecting issues that might be causing this?  You can always pull the sensor our and stick it in a pot of boiling water; that's guaranteed to be EXACTLY 100C (at sea level), so there the needle should be at about the 2/3 up (1 o'clock) position!

post-375-13667643755333.jpg

(Image borrowed form @02Les from another post)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...