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Question regarding removal of window gasket chrome trim


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The chrome strips on my front and rear windows have sort of a faux rust look.  The gaskets themselves are OK, probably a 7 out of 10, but it’s largely  a  fair weather car so I do not want to replace those at the moment.  I see that the chrome strips are still available for about $60, can I remove and replace those without removing the gaskets, or will both have to come out?  I suspect they are both original.

FC67143C-A845-4E64-A2EE-1C0EF49A32FF.jpeg

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I would not recommend trying to replace just the chrome filler. even with a new/pliable windscreen seal is a tough job to get that filler to seat properly... on an old rubber i would expect the seal will resist strongly and theres a risk that the rubber will be damaged by the forces you'll need to use....as an alternative use a chrome 'wrap' of the type used to cover car bodywork....fiddly but will look ok.

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'59 Morris Minor, '67 Triumph TR4A, '68 Silver Shadow, '72 2002tii, '73 Jaguar E-Type,

'73 2002tii w/Alpina mods , '74 2002turbo, '85 Alfa Spider, '03 Lotus Elise

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This is not a job I'd want to do again. I did front and rear. "Replacing the gaskets" is removing the windshields and replacing them. There are some who say you can place the trim in the rubber seal first and then apply the seal to the windshield and insert the whole thing at once. I didn't do that. BMW gaskets BTW.

 

I had help with the windshields and the gaskets, but attempted the chrome trim myself. Nightmare getting the feel of that tool right and it took me forever to do the front, standing inside the empty engine bay. I used plenty of soapy water and my hands were still killing me when I was finally finished. 

 

I enlisted assistance for the rear and it went much faster, probably because I had the feel of the tool better but also because I had a second set of hands to position the trim properly as I moved along. Took us about 1/2 an hour, maybe 45 minutes.

 

If you do this job, get somebody to help. I feel it's kinda "if it ain't broke don't fix it" along with one of those jobs where guys say "oh sure, piece of cake, takes ten minutes" and it takes me all weekend and I hate myself and my wife keeps her distance.

 

Just sayin'...

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1974 2002 Tii-SOLD

1978 911SC Coupe

1988 Landcruiser

2020 M2 CS

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There are some who have done this.

 

Once.

 

It takes about 45 minutes, and your hands will be sore for a week,

but it's certainly do- able.  Mike's tool, above, helps a lot, but use a 

little caution- it can scar the replacement.

It also is a bit fickle- you find an angle that works, a foot or so just slides in

'like buttah' and then the thing jams up and doesn't want to work again.  So you 

have to find another angle that works better.  

Also, don't cut it to length until a week after you're done.  That stuff shrinks like crazy.

 

The nylon 'body trim tool set' from Horror Fright is also really useful- buy 2, as they only

give you one of each shape, and sometimes it's nice to have 2 of the 90 degree bent ones.

 

As to glass install, there's no reason to leave that strip out. It does sort of lock the glass down, but it's

90% decorative, and 99% easier to install before the gasket goes onto the glass.

Then it's just a standard 'pull it into the aperature with a string' operation.  

 

Easy peasy.

 

Compared to pulling porcupine quills from the nose of a German Shepherd....

 

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I thought is is a Lock Strip to keep the window in place.  If the gasket is pliable, then no problem replacing the lock strip.  The seal is not disturbed.  I changed it on my original rear glass, the front seal was replaced abut 15 years ago and replaced both lock strips last year.  I wanted the black lock strip instead of the chrome one.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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+1 to Toby's post. I did say it wasn't difficult...didn't say it was fun... 

 

But a lot of soapy water to lubricate (and patience) will get you through. Extra hands help but I've done the job alone too...  

 

I do find a good tool helps, My preference is for a wheeled lockstrip tool because there is a markedly decreased risk of scarring the strip. 

 

This one is my favorite. Do evaluate how flexible the gasket it first. It's a miserable job on stiff hardened rubber. Letting the window and gasket warm in hot sun to soften the rubber first helps. The tricky parts (at least to me) are the corners. Softening the lock strip in a bucket of hot water or warming it (carefully) with a heat gun makes shaping into the corners easier.

tls2582.jpg

 

Equalizer locking strip tool

 

 

  • Like 3

Rob S
'69 2002; '04 330i ZHP; 2018 X1; 2014 535i; 2017 340i

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17 hours ago, joysterm said:

Just reinstalled  mine on my e30. It's virtually identical to my 02 using the tool in the pic.  If you take your time and lil dish soap works fine..

51o1nxdGMbL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

I simply could not get that tool to work, try as I might.  I ended up just doing it by hand, a section at  time.  I found that two plastic credit card sized pieces worked best.  Of course, that was with new gaskets and with the gaskets off the car, installed on the glass.  With old gaskets, it sounds like a difficult task will be made exponentially more so!

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I used the tool without the wheel.  I use tools and my hands every day, taking stuff apart and putting it back together.  I did it by myself.  I did score the lock strip.  If I did it again, especially with a black strip, I'd find the tool with the wheel.  There is a learning curve, but I didn't find it too steep.

 

And when people are talking about soapy water, it's at least 1/4 liquid dish soap in a little spray bottle.  Seriously soapy / slippy water.

 

And anything dealing with rubber is easier when it's warm.  I wouldn't want to do this in a cold garage.

 

And I think I broke the sharp edge off the tool with a little round file to keep it from digging in when it did grab...  I think.

 

And it's your car.  If you don't like the faux rust, change 'em.  Black sharpie?

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Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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23 hours ago, jimk said:

I thought is is a Lock Strip to keep the window in place.  If the gasket is pliable, then no problem replacing the lock strip.  The seal is not disturbed.  I changed it on my original rear glass, the front seal was replaced abut 15 years ago and replaced both lock strips last year.  I wanted the black lock strip instead of the chrome one.

 

Yeah, the strip DOES keep pressure on the glass- to- gasket interface. 

But when it's removed, unlike the E30 and various other pre- 90's cars,

it doesn't release the gasket enough to easily remove the windshield.  

 

But since the gasket- to- body interface is the classic C- shape,

it's pretty darned easy to set the bottom edge of the assembled gasket

and glass in place, then use the clothesline trick to pull the whole thing into the car.

 

And yes, the ONE time I had a nice, soft gasket in the hot summer sun, replacing the lockstrip wasn't too bad.

On the daily driver with old, hardened rubber and a glued- in windshield, it was a rather uncomfortable experience.

 

And the worst part?

 

That strip survives MAYBE 5 years in Northwest UV.  I can't imagine it'd last long in Phoenix....

 

t

bundle of giggles

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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