Engine out – suck it up & do subframe bushings?

[tdskip]

Not really looking for more work right now but you guys are rubbing off on me and I have this weird vague desire to do things properly...

 

Since the engine is out and the rest of the engine bay stripped, with this be the time to address my subframe bushings preemptively?

 

For a fun but civilized road trip car, stay with rubber?

 

 Thanks and  in case some of us can’t tell the difference, it’s officially the weekend. 

[coloincaalpine RIP 2021]

Yep, do it and stay with rubber.  IMO.

-dq

[Bibm5]

Yes, I would also do motor mounts as well if you weren't already planning too. 

[tdskip]

 Good morning and thank you for the helpful and fast responses. 

 

I picked up a new rectangular motor mounts yesterday, so I think I’m OK there. Any preference on the brand or sourcing of the sub frame bushings?

 

 I’m replacing the steering coupler as well, because I doubt I’ll ever have better access than now. 

 

Thanks!

[worzella]

Don’t use poly engine mounts on a road car. I used them and the vibration transfer to frame and cabin is horrible

 

My biggest regret in an otherwise almost perfect rebuild experience

 

And yes I know they are fairly easy to replace but just got things together ? Will redo in fall maybe

 

Randy

[tdskip]

Thanks @worzella  -  I already picked up are rubber.  Having to do anything all over again is not a ton of fun, and know exactly where you’re coming from on that. 

Edited June 27, 2020 by tdskip

[Buckeye]

20 minutes ago, tdskip said:

 Any preference on the brand of the sub frame bushings?

Lemfoerder. Genuine BMW parts where Lemfoerder is not available. 

Front Sway Bar Endlinks - https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/3401_front

[TobyB]

For the bushings in the subframe itself-

 

you can use washers (finding the correct size isn't trivial) with a 

center hole larger than the inner sleeve to act as snubbers.

A stack about 4-6mm thick will take most of the free movement

out of the bushing, but still let it pivot and not add any real NVH.

 

This keeps the tension arm located more precisely front- to back, which in turn will

reduce caster change under braking, which lets you run a little less toe 

AND it'll be more directionally stable under braking.

 

Before you install the bushings, take one with you to the hardware store.  I think

the washers I found were for use in concrete forming, but anything with an 

ID that fits over the inner sleeve of the bushing will work.

 

I thought I was clever thinking that up, but later, a parts car that had

been through the ownership of a BMW mechanic had a very similar set of spacers installed.

 

The same thing can be done at the tension rod to control arm bushing, but there's less free movement,

and a greater potential for metal- to- metal contact if you can't find a useful diameter washer.

 

less unwanted lateral suspension movement is always good,

t

 

[g_force]

tdskip, it's a good idea to replace the bushings, whether now or in the future.  But having the engine out isn't helpful unless you intend to use a hydraulic press to press them in.  You could do the bushings later with the engine and subframe in place using a tool (makeshift or otherwise) that relies on a screw to generate the force to push the bushings in.

 

Edited June 27, 2020 by g_force

[tdskip]

@g_force - looks like I need to study up here some.

 

i do have access to a press it helpful.

[NYNick]

Too much info for my tiny brain. All this has been done before. I called Steve at Blunt. He asked me what type of car I was building, what kind of ride I was looking for and sold me everything I needed. It was all rubber, except for the sway bar mounts for the new sway bars and the poly inserts for the new rear carrier bushings.

 

I'm absolutely in love with the ride. Blew one of my 911 buddies away, (I let him drive) and had my son telling me it handled like his old Miata. It handles like a dream as far as I'm concerned. 

 

Oh, and I hope you like the smell of old, burning bushings.

[Son of Marty]

Yeah the washers under the bushings Toby referred to hark back to the earliest days of 02ing back before they made anything for the suspention other than larger sway bars and Pinto station wagon springs, which worked surprisingly well, The washers remove a lot of the slack especially in the tension bars when needed but really don't effect the ride just going down the road.

[tech71]

I went with BMW bushings for the fwd subframe and control arms. 

Not that much more and I think the higher quality rubber compound used lasts longer.

Think they fit better and install easier as well.

 

[tomphot]

 

[Dudeland]

Do the idler arm bushings.  You can't do them with the motor in as far as I can tell.  It is either motor out or subframe dropped. 

 

 

https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/steering-idler-arm-bushings-2002/