weber 38/38

[realgone]

Hi guys,

 

I disassembled my 38/38 weber for a rebuild the other day. 

I got it all back together without too much drama, and the car seems to be running well, but I don't think the electric choke is functioning.

 

Before the rebuild the choke worked well.

 

When I get in the car and push the pedal to the floor to activate the choke, should I be able to see the choke flaps close?

 

Is there a good tutorial on setting these up properly?

Is there a simple function test to perform to make sure my linkages are adjusted properly? I have power at the wire connected to the choke.

Edited June 25, 2020 by realgone

[TobyB]

1 yep, flap should close, at least part way if the temps are below 40c

 

2 not that I found.  https://www.lainefamily.com/images/WeberTuningManual.pdf  might have something in it.  

But I've had to trial- and- error all of mine, over weeks and seasons.

 

3. Yes, and it didn't even come close to working for mine.  I think there's a line and an arrow?  That's what's in the link above.

 

4. Check current.  I have had the choke not ground itself to the carb before.  It should draw quite a bit (an amp?  I don't remember.)

But the bimetal should close the choke by default, and if it's not getting current, it'll stay mostly closed.

 

5. yes, you freaks in CaliProposition69Fornicia don't use chokes.  But in Edmonton, you're not getting a car STARTED 9 months

out of the year without one.

 

t

there's lead in that. 

There's lead in that, too. 

There's even lead in THAT. 

But I'm not EATING it!!!!

AND it's alloyed.As in, it's not giving me lead poisoning 

even if I DO eat it.

stupid, stupid stupid. 

At least Nero KNEW how to fiddle...

ahhh, ranting.  It's what's for dinner.

[realgone]

Thanks Toby, this was helpful. 

It took some messing around, but I got it working. 

Still needs some dealing in, but I'm on the right track. 

[Zorac]

Im in calgary, I don't think I've every seen my choke NOT come on for a cold start.  I'm not sure if the electric choke is the same as the water choke, but I can turn my water choke to adjust timing.  Doesn't really do much, but something to check.

[TobyB]

Yup, the water and electric choke are identical in function, except that the electric uses voltage through

the bimetal itself to provide the heat.

 

In theory, you'd think that the water makes more sense- cold water, cold car, more choke needed.

 

In practice, water temperature lags combustion chamber temperature badly, so if the choke is adjusted

correctly for a cold start on a cold day, it stays on far too long, and you're running around with a lot of

choke when you really can get away with almost none...

Which is hard on the engine, warmup cycle after warmup cycle.

If it's adjusted to come off at about the right time, you don't get enough in the first 30 seconds to a minute,

and it'll stall after you back out of the driveway.  And be really hard to restart.

 

So while the electric 'timer' (affected by underhood temps, admittedly) is theoretically far less than ideal,

in practice I have been able to get it to work a lot better than the water choke.  The time constant is about

right for engine warm- up, and if the car stalls 'cool' the choke will reapply enough to get it restarted.

 

but that's me.

t

 

[Squid's 02]

Rather than start a new thread I will ask my question here.... I have searched via google and the forum and not found my answer. 

 

I have a Weber 38/38 with Electric Choke on my 2002. It starts and runs great! My issue is that I don't know the proper procedure for restarting the car once it is warm? If I press the gas pedal again, should it re-engage the choke as it does  when it is cold?  Whenever I stop at a store or stop to get gas and the car sits for a few minutes it takes a bit of cranking and feathering the gas to get it started. Is this what I should expect? 

 

Please let me know if there is some adjustment I should be making. 

 

Thank you in advance for your time and knowledge.  

[thinksound_mike]

5 hours ago, Squid's 02 said:

Rather than start a new thread I will ask my question here.... I have searched via google and the forum and not found my answer. 

 

I have a Weber 38/38 with Electric Choke on my 2002. It starts and runs great! My issue is that I don't know the proper procedure for restarting the car once it is warm? If I press the gas pedal again, should it re-engage the choke as it does  when it is cold?  Whenever I stop at a store or stop to get gas and the car sits for a few minutes it takes a bit of cranking and feathering the gas to get it started. Is this what I should expect? 

 

Please let me know if there is some adjustment I should be making. 

 

Thank you in advance for your time and knowledge.  

On a warm day? Car is already warm? It's not the choke. It may be a different fuel issue.

 

Mine likes to crank and crank on a warm restart, I hold my gas pedal to the floor to clear out the carb and it fires right up.

 

Do you have a spacer between the carb and manifold? Fuel boils off and causes vapor lock in your fuel system causing it not to want to restart. 

[Squid's 02]

2 hours ago, thinksound_mike said:

On a warm day? Car is already warm? It's not the choke. It may be a different fuel issue.

 

Mine likes to crank and crank on a warm restart, I hold my gas pedal to the floor to clear out the carb and it fires right up.

 

Do you have a spacer between the carb and manifold? Fuel boils off and causes vapor lock in your fuel system causing it not to want to restart. 

 

Thanks for the quick response. Yes, on a warm day when the car is already warm. I do have a spacer between the carb and manifold. I can get it to start, but it is more of an annoyance. It starts so easily when it's cold, I just figured I was doing something wrong when warm, or that the choke was engaging too much when warm and flooding the engine? 

 

Any other thoughts or words of wisdom on the topic are welcome. 

[thinksound_mike]

Is the fuel return line still hooked up? I deleted mine and that sometimes causes the issue. You can try searching "hot restart" or "warm restart" on the forum. There's been several posts on it, but I'm not sure if there's been a consistent solve vs trial and error for some.

[TobyB]

I have had best results NOT 'setting' the choke again on a hot restart.  Just crank.

 

If it doesn't catch, get it to start (usually flooring it and cranking) and drive it home.

Then park, open the hood, take the top off the air cleaner, and watch.

What you'll likely see is that fuel starts leaking out of the carb, down the 

throat, and into the intake plenum.

 

At least 2 things cause this- the crap low- vapor pressure fuel boils in the

float bowl, and splashes over the top of the float chamber.

And the fuel trapped between the pump and the carb also vaporizes, 

overwhelming the float and flooding the bowl with liquid fuel.

 

Thus, the spacer, and also (in the threads in summers past) the mention of bypass fuel filters.

I have wondered if the latest 32/36 lids that incorporate a float bowl vent could be modified to 

draw fuel out of the bowl- or at least, let it return to the tank rather than dump down the throats of the carb.

 

Ahh, the joys of fuel injection...

roller cams...

pent- roof combustion chambers...

 

and lithium batteries.

 

t

JATO, anyone?