Question about original metallic paint

[tech71]

My 76 is Granat rot metallic and in sore need of a refinish so I am putting out some feelers locally.

The local parts store I normally do business carries a line of paint called "Nason" Made by DuPont.

 They are telling me that BMW paint code 25 (granat rot metallic) is available in a single stage paint.

 

I have heard it said on the Faq that all 02 factory paint was single stage, is that correct? Even the metallic colors?

Dont know how I feel about a single stage metallic paint?

Edited June 14, 2020 by tech71

[TobyB]

Given the development in paint chemistry,

I'm a staunch supporter of base/clear paint systems.

I've used high- quality single stage a lot, and both inexpensive

and decent 2- part systems, and I'd only use single stage for jambs and underhood

at this point.  

 

Especially for a metallic.

You can focus on getting the grain right in the base,

and the surface finish and material depth right in the clear.

And the clear is SO MUCH more durable.

Plus, you can sand and polish it, both for finish and defect mitigation.

 

Others have a different opinion.

 

t

Has seen the light, and it's... clear.

[esty]

but....if you use a single stage urethane with several coats of clear, you can sand & buff the clear without disturbing the metallic...NASON is decent paint, i've used.

[Conserv]

At least from some time in 1973, all BMW metallics, including all PVC-frei formulations, were two-stage paints. Like earlier Glasurit metallics, which were probably single-stage, they were terrible. Glasurit and BMW did not resolve their metallic paint issue until after the ‘02 ended production.

 

As BMW was paying to re-paint their metallic cars, they were recommending, ca. 1976, DuPont Imron.

 

Uh... yes, I’m more than a little bitter about the failure of my extra-cost Polaris approximately 4 years after the car’s manufacture. BMW’s policy was to pay for re-paints if the paint failed with three years. I stupidly garaged my car and took great care of it, prolonging the paint’s failure... ?

All BMW non-metallic colors of the ‘02 era were single-stage. Two-stage paints were so.... new in the mid-‘70’s that many body shops — including the body shop for my BMW dealer — had never used it, and refused to use it.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited June 14, 2020 by Conserv

[Son of Marty]

To be fair to BMW I don't think any manufacturer had a clear coat that would hold up until the mid to late 80's. 

 

[visionaut]

That Polaris used in ‘76 was just awful, like a watercolor silver... fading in different tones all over, before bursting into a sunburn peel on all the horizontal surfaces.

 

I’d guess most Polaris ain’t Polaris anymore...

 

(originally Polaris)

[Conserv]

25 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

To be fair to BMW I don't think any manufacturer had a clear coat that would hold up until the mid to late 80's. 

 

Agreed.

 

But... BMW certainly did not disclose that the metallic paint, for which you were paying extra, might not hold up and then, when it failed, they walked away from the problem when the car was 3 years old. Like mine, many of the cars that were garaged, conveniently did not fail until that threshold was crossed.

 

It was 34 years, 2010, when I bought my next BMW.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

[uai]

I always wanted to have a ratty yellowish single stage "polaris" as opposed to "Polaris Neu" car.

Finally ended up with tampico

This is one that got away - I was too slow the ad disappeared 15 minutes after I've seen it - I only was able to save the pics. the car later crossed my way unfortunately ruined with box flares etc.
 

Edited June 14, 2020 by uai

[Conserv]

4 hours ago, visionaut said:

That Polaris used in ‘76 was just awful, like a watercolor silver... fading in different tones all over, before bursting into a sunburn peel on all the horizontal surfaces.

 

I’d guess most Polaris ain’t Polaris anymore...

 

(originally Polaris)

Pure poetry!

 

That speaks to me!

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

[GDI]

I have a '74 tii that was originally Fjord and came to me last year with an pre 81 white paint job.  I am assuming that the metallic Fjord failed in similar fashion to the Polaris.  The car is solid with no damage that is detectable, so that would be the only reason for painting it I can think of.  The white is nice, but I think I may eventually want to go back to Fjord, so I'm trying to lean the best paint if I do go the original route some day.

[Conserv]

They’ve virtually all been re-painted by now. If you can find a metallic-paint BMW with original paint, it will look like mine did before it’s Big Re-Paint in 2015-18 (below).

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

[Steve Tochi]

I have decided to create a name for the color of my failed Polaris, and the name is "Geld".  Sort of sounds like gold/yellow, but the German translation means "money".  

[Crash513]

16 hours ago, tech71 said:

My 76 is Granat rot metallic and in sore need of a refinish so I am putting out some feelers locally.

The local parts store I normally do business carries a line of paint called "Nason" Made by DuPont.

 They are telling me that BMW paint code 25 (granat rot metallic) is available in a single stage paint.

 

I have heard it said on the Faq that all 02 factory paint was single stage, is that correct? Even the metallic colors?

Dont know how I feel about a single stage metallic paint?

 

I just had my car re-shot in Granitrot using PPG Envirobase with a two stage (base and clear).  I did a lot of research on this before settling on the PPG product, and I have no regrets...I hope I still don't in 10 years.

 

This pic is a couple of weeks after paint when the car was cut & buffed.  Obviously it's turned out with a much better finish than anything BMW did in the '70's.  But it was more important to me to have a good looking and very durable finish that to make it look original.  My painter explained to me that by turning down the air pressure on the 2nd to last coat, he was able to get the metallic layout how he wanted it.  The clear is thick enough that I should be able to cut and buff it at least 6 or 7 times during the lifetime of the paint job to bring it back when it (inevitably) gets dull and hazy.  

 

The PO had repainted my car white in 1990 (kind of a murky version of Chamonix).  But ironically it was originally a Polaris car.   

[TobyB]

13 hours ago, Steve Tochi said:

I have decided to create a name for the color of my failed Polaris, and the name is "Geld".  Sort of sounds like gold/yellow, but the German translation means "money".  

 

ummm, in horse circles, that word means something pretty specific...

 

 

Esty, I've put clear over single stage solids quite a bit- it makes it really easy to do a whole shell in color, jambs and all.

Then I do the doors separately, let everything harden up and assemble it.

Since it's single stage, it's easy to fix flaws and damage in it- inside the recoat window, if that's easier.

 

Then a block sand and clear coat, to get the texture down, and also give it continuity over the whole car.

 

t

 

[tech71]

9 hours ago, Crash513 said:

 

I just had my car re-shot in Granitrot using PPG Envirobase with a two stage (base and clear).  I did a lot of research on this before settling on the PPG product, and I have no regrets...I hope I still don't in 10 years.

 

This pic is a couple of weeks after paint when the car was cut & buffed.  Obviously it's turned out with a much better finish than anything BMW did in the '70's.  But it was more important to me to have a good looking and very durable finish that to make it look original.  My painter explained to me that by turning down the air pressure on the 2nd to last coat, he was able to get the metallic layout how he wanted it.  The clear is thick enough that I should be able to cut and buff it at least 6 or 7 times during the lifetime of the paint job to bring it back when it (inevitably) gets dull and hazy.  

 

The PO had repainted my car white in 1990 (kind of a murky version of Chamonix).  But ironically it was originally a Polaris car.   

Nice, cant wait to see your car finished out.

Thanks to all for some helpful input?

Definitely painting the doors separate, they have to be stripped and dipped before repairs.

You know, when I first got survivor I had dreams of a gleaming Glasurit finished perfect  gem dancing in my head. Glasurit, not sikkens or another BASF brand, top of the line Glasurit.

That may not be necessary or practical for Survivor, a solid "seasonal driver"?