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5 speed conversion tips


fsf517

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Hi everyone , I recently posted about installing a 5 speed into my formerly AT 2000c . And I met up with some very helpful people, with great knowledge of this procedure. As in my nature to move along at a snails pace for things I am unfamiliar with, I am inching forward. 
my questions are. 
1) confirm the identity of my trans . I believe it’s a typical 245 OD from the early 80s . It does not have any M20 stampings. It has a mechanical odometer hook up and reverse light switch  on top. 
—————

I am dropping it off at a manual transmission builders for a cleaning and re-sealing, inspection. I was told when I bought it that it is in good order ?

—————-

2) Does anyone have a parts list for this trans such as gaskets , or any other must haves just for inspection purposes. (I know of internally there are problems the list will change)

 

3) where can I get the reverse light switch?

4) where can I get hard parts if needed ?

5) Is there any reason I should buy blunts conversion at this time? I think it can wait until this inspection process is done. (I already have a slave cylinder new)
 

thanks for any help 

fred

 


 

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This is an oft-discussed topic.  A six-page thread has developed since late April:

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/261094-5-speed-swap-beginning-tomorrow-any-hot-tips

 

I put the words 5 speed in the Search box & received 10,000 hits.  You can arrange them by date. 

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/search/?q=5 speed&updated_after=any&sortby=newest

 

There are many threads about how to ID a 5-speed tranny.  The most recent: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/187013-help-identifying-transmission

 

Good luck!

 

John in VA

'74 tii "Juanita"  '85 535i "Goldie"  '86 535i "M-POSSTR"  

'03 530i "Titan"  '06 330ci "ZHPY"

bmw_spin.gif

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Quick tip:  since you're gonna replace the clutch slave cylinder, unless your current clutch M/C is new or nearly so, replace it too.  Otherwise the nice tight slave cylinder will exert more pressure than your old, tired master cylinder can handle, and it'll start to leak.  Into your pedal box, causing rust and all sorts of problems.

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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I got nothing to add that's not already covered in the multitude of topics/threads contained here within.  However, 

The conversion is straight forward for those who understand basic mechanics, possess the tools and facility, plus can apply knowledge of how to measure and fabricate.  That being said, remember the 3 M's 

 

Make sure the parts all fit and play well together. 

Mock it all up before you commit to placement

Measure 10 times-cut once

 

but what do I know 

Edited by conkitchen

But what do I know

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Mike thank you for the advice , I did what you said and am replacing the master cylinder at the pedal. John in VA thanks for your sending me the links. Sometimes it’s the personal interaction from fellow members that lead to the best answers , and create contacts, but I get the fact that there is way too much info for me to ask the same old questions. Conkitchen that’s advice I need to hear ... fabricating isn’t as easy for me. I like assembly. 
so I’m sure your all aware Ireland sells a gasket set, which was a relief for me, I’m sure I paid a pinch more , but getting all the correct gaskets in one shipment is a real A+++ for me. I hope to within a month install the drivetrain , thanks again. To be continued, fred 

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Make sure you can shift through all the gears before installing. A couple of weeks ago we had a member start to install his 5 speed only to find out some of the gears were locked out leaving his car stranded for awhile.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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23 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Make sure you can shift through all the gears before installing. A couple of weeks ago we had a member start to install his 5 speed only to find out some of the gears were locked out leaving his car stranded for awhile.


Yep! That was me. I don’t see a shift platform on your transmission, which leaves the inferior screwdriver-through-the-selector-bushing route. But since you’re already taking it to a pro, you might as well have them test shift it themselves. Then, when you get blunt’s kit, you can fit up the shifter and do one last test before mounting. 

Edited by MattL

MattL

1976 BMW 2002 Pastellblau

Philadelphia 'Burbs

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Hey Fred, I did mine myself a few years ago. Here's a list of notes that I collected along the way with resource links for various parts of the process. Might be helpful, but also every person's stuck points are different...

 

 
---
 
HELPFUL LINKS:
Procedure Overview:
 
Very good detailed overview here of the trans install:
 
Ultimate 5spd conversion page on FAQ:
 
Bimmers.com overview of procedure:
 
Lots-o-pictures step-by-step:
 
Another good overview of the process at the bottom of this thread:
 
Transmission Removal Procedure:
 
Trouble with 245 sitting left and hitting the tranny tunnel:
 
Aardvark Racing upgrade Kit:
 
Ireland Engineering Kit has all the necessary components other than tranny parts list:
 
Kick Ass Full parts list in photo attachment on this thread:
 
Rear flange removal:
 
Pilot Bearing:
 
Clutch Re-installation Step-by-step:
 
Transmission Install Instructions:
 
Transmission cradle easy wood build:
 
Getrag 245 Manual in PDF:
 
Re-install procedure:
 
Aligning the driveshaft (about halfway down):
 
 
Clutch Disk/PressurePlate/Flywheel How-It-Works Video:
 
 
Getrag 240 vs 245:
 
Shifter bushing step-by-step:
 
Ireland Engineering Shift Plate Instructions:
---------
 
PARTS LIST
 
Transmission Parts List: ORDERED VIA PELICANPARTS 8/26/13
Input shaft seal - 30mm X 42mm X 7mm - Part #: 23 11 1 228 314
Output shaft seal - 40mm X 55mm X 8mm - Part #: 23 12 1 205 340
Selector shaft seal - Part #: 23 12 1 282 394 (or 23 12 1 228 443)
Output flange locking ring - Part #: 23 22 1 201 330
 
Guibo + Nuts:
6-hole guibo part #: 26 11 1 225 624   ORDERED VIA PELICAN PARTS 8/26/13
Guibo nuts: locking nut
 
Clutch/PresurePlate/Flywheel parts -- 
228mm clutch disc: 21 21 1 223 097 (or 21 21 1 223 174)
228mm pressure plate - part #: 21 21 1 251 248
The throwout bearing must be from an e21 323i - part #: 21 51 1 204 525
Braided stainless steel clutch line -- IE
Brass clutch pin (Ireland Engineering)
Pilot bearing-- determine part number for 228mm
For 228mm flywheel, you must purchase 8 of the 28mm bolts - part #: 11 22 7 805 885
 
Re-surface flywheel:
When getting the flywheel resurfaced, make sure they know to leave a .020" lip for the clutch disc to ride on. As quoted from another member "The clutch disc rides on a raised platform. The mounting for the pressure plate sits .5mm "below" the central wear surface." Apparently any reputable shop should know this spec. It should look like this when complete:
 
 
Speedo Cable
use earlier model and bypass the EGR switch: 62 12 1 351 720 
 
Shifter Rebuild Kit (need source)
 
Shift Plate & Shift Selector
 
Transmission Support bracket
 
Full Parts List:
 
 
Edited by Dug Nichols
  • Like 4

--

'73 Sahara numbers matching 

'74 Mintgrun sunroof car w/ oem Golde deflector, euro bumpers, 5spd, owned since 2002

 

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  • 10 months later...

SCABBING ONTO THIS GREAT THREAD: the 245 is ready to go in once I get the throwout bearing installed.  Because I have a 228mm flywheel I am using the e21 323i throwout bearing, with plastic sleeve. When I place the bearing on the input shaft it has a LOT of clearance.  I mean, you can rock it almost 1/16” front to back. I assume this is normal and OK?  The original bearing (metal sleeve) it doesn’t move around nearly as much.  Observations welcome, though I don’t see what other alternative I have to this part.

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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A good point, and I was going to add that putting the release arm on first restricts the play a bit. But it’s still impressive.  Maybe that’s just the way the plastic part is designed, but I’d expect some chatter from it, being this loose.  

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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Well, we took it apart, inspected the gears, measured the synchros, changed all the seals and put it back together. But “tested”?  Wish me luck!

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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This is the Sachs non-self-adjusting version.  I didn’t see that video till after I bought it.....

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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