Single Click from Starter

[Mucci]

I had an intermittent slow starting issue and after replacing the battery and cables I decided to disassemble the starter to clean it up and check the bushings. 
 

After cleaning out a ton of sludge, checking the bushings and cleaning up the connections and commutator I put it all back together. I bench tested it with a jump pack and everything worked well. 
 

I just put it back in the car and now all I get is a single click from the solenoid. 
 

I tried putting the car in 2nd and pushing it a couple feet to rotate the flywheel. Same click. 

 

I replaced the ground wire from the starter bracket to the body. Same click. 
 

I tried hooking up a jump pack directly to the starter casing and positive terminal of the starter. I tried that with the key and then again using a jumper to the solenoid spade. Still one click. 
 

What’s going on here? How did it work on the bench and not in the car? Is there a tightening  procedure to the starter bolts to align it or something? 
 

 

[HBChris]

Jump a wire from battery positive to starter solenoid, the 6:00 position terminal and see if it spins.  If it does it might be your ignition switch.

['76mintgrün'02]

What sort of negative cable clamp do you have connected to the battery? 

Is it one with a tab that clamps down on a wire (they suck), or is the cable integral to the clamp?

 

There should be a fat cable, or strap between the negative battery post and the block and a smaller one between the post and the body.

 

You might double check that those three connections are good.  (battery/block/body)

 

 

[Mucci]

8 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

What sort of negative cable clamp do you have connected to the battery? 

Is it one with a tab that clamps down on a wire (they suck), or is the cable integral to the clamp?

 

There should be a fat cable, or strap between the negative battery post and the block and a smaller one between the post and the body.

 

You might double check that those three connections are good.  (battery/block/body)

 

 

All the cables are beefy and new. Besides I bypassed all that by putting the jump pack leads directly on the starter and still got the click. This is a wall outlet style engine starter that puts 12V 100A to it so I know power isn’t the issue. 
 

I just put 12V to the switched threaded pole of the starter and it spins. 
 

So now I’m really confused. How is it that I can independently get the starter to spin and the solenoid to click but not the two happening at the same time?

 

 

Edited May 27, 2020 by Mucci

['76mintgrün'02]

Sorry.  I should have read more carefully.

Tom

[Son of Marty]

It maybe your started drive is not getting it's full throw, this will prevent the solenoid from shutting the main contacts so no juice to the starter.

[Mucci]

7 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

It maybe your started drive is not getting it's full throw, this will prevent the solenoid from shutting the main contacts so no juice to the starter.

Ok sounds like this is it. I just stuck the multimeter on the switched pole and it only shows 1.1 Volts when trying to start. 
 

So what did I do wrong in the reassembly that it’s not getting its full throw?

 

I struggled with the solenoid a bit during the tear down. I loosened the bolts/nuts on the side of the solenoid with the terminals in the process of taking everything apart but then I couldn’t get the two mounting bolts to budge; the ones that attach it to the cast housing. So I ended up just tightening the other solenoid bolts back down and leaving it be. I wonder if I somehow screwed something up internally by loosening those?

Edited May 27, 2020 by Mucci

[Son of Marty]

I'd pull it and check it on the bench again see if it throws the starter gear and go from there.

[Mucci]

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

I'd pull it and check it on the bench again see if it throws the starter gear and go from there.

Ok, pulled the starter. 
 

The gear has full throw when energized (it hits the stop bushing on the shaft). It will spin in its retracted state but doesn’t want to spin when extended. Looks like I’m taking it apart again ...

 

Does the amount that the hot pole protrudes have anything to do with it? I feel like it’s sticking out more than it did initially. I haven’t been able to get the solenoid detached from the casing to pull it apart. I hate flat blade machine screws...

Edited May 28, 2020 by Mucci

[Buckeye]

2 hours ago, Mucci said:

I haven’t been able to get the solenoid detached from the casing to pull it apart. I hate flat blade machine screws...

 

you need Hand Impact driver Tool Set to remove machine screws. 

Lisle "Hand Impact Driver - 1/2" Drive - Includes #2, #3, #4 Phillips and 3/8" straight bits - Can also be used with 1/2" drive impact sockets"

[Healey3000]

Hi,

 

Based on the symptoms you have described, it would seem that the issue lies between the solenoid and the motor.  Each item works separately, but not in concert.  My guess is that the internal solenoid contacts are not closing fully, despite the audible click.  How much current does the solenoid draw when used with your wall source (assuming it has a readout)?

 

This may sound crazy but have you tried giving the solenoid a good whack with a light hammer?  Make sure you don't hit the starter body.  That might dislodge the contacts for you.

[Mucci]

On 5/27/2020 at 6:42 PM, Buckeye said:

 

you need Hand Impact driver Tool Set to remove machine screws. 

Lisle "Hand Impact Driver - 1/2" Drive - Includes #2, #3, #4 Phillips and 3/8" straight bits - Can also be used with 1/2" drive impact sockets"

Thanks for the tip. I got one and they came out in a couple seconds!

 

 I’m not really sure what was wrong with the solenoid. Maybe the fork wasn’t in the solenoid eyelet quite right or maybe something got in between the internal contacts on the other end. 
 

I loosened the plastic cap of the solenoid with the connections on it and cracked it open just enough to shoot some electronics cleaner in there. Then I greased the shaft on the other end. Put it all back together and it works again with low resistance between the poles when switched. 

[Healey3000]

Excellent!